Rebuild + Twin Turbo Project
Rebuild + Twin Turbo Project
Hello everyone, long time lurker here. Been on the fence about getting rid of the car for some time but money came in and I've decided to pick the project back up! I've slowly started buying parts to piece together a Rev-Up motor to build outside of the vehicle. I started by buying a non rev up long block motor for $100 on Offerup. The dude didn't know much about it but said it had rod knock. After disassembly it turns out it spun a rod bearing. But being that I was going to take the block and crank to the machine shop I asked if I could get the crank turned and use oversize bearings. The answer was yes and that's where my project began.
I also want to add I am not a mechanic and my day job is I.T. Network Engineer. I turbo'd the G35 with the TN kit and then the rings went bad, which is what prompted the rebuild. Just a guy who's trying to build up his 16 year old self's dream car.
Here are the parts I've ordered and what it cost me with taxes/shipping:
Used non rev-up motor - $100
ACL Rod Bearing +.50mm oversize - $88.44
ACL Race Main Bearing +.25mm oversize - $72.21
ACL Thrust Washers STD.- $13.77
ARP Head Studs - $150
ARP Main Studs - $150
Weisco Pistons - $650
Eagle Connecting Rods - $499.95
HR Head gasket set - $62.74
Block bore - $195
Block pressure check - $125
Crank Turning - $140
Reassemble - $400
Cylinder head remaned. Right - $346.30
Cylinder head remaned. Left - $346.30
Intake Timing Sprocket(s) - $83
Revup timing cover - front - $95.39
Oil Pump - $89.03
Timing Kit/Cam Bolts/Gaskets - $254.09
Water Pump - $50.87
Thermostat & Timing cover gasket - $35.18
New crank bolt - $17.64
Valve Covers - $100.35
Intake gears - $319.21
SR20 GT2560r turbo x2 - $583
GTM VQ35HR turbo manifolds - $617.85
Stillen Oil Pan - $214.61
Gaskets (intake, exhaust, oil pan, turbo) & studs for turbo manifold - $105.78
Oil Cooler - $131.45
Lightweight crank pulley/alternator pulley - 132.50
ACT Heavy Duty Clutch/LUK DM flywheel (used w/5k miles) - 108.88
CZP Polyurethane motor mounts - 219.95
Mishimoto Radiator (used) - $150
Overflow Tank - $30
Fuel Return line and regulator kit - $394.40
Fuel Rail - $220.24
3" zzperformance ultra quiet resonator x2 - $190.78
2" cold piping - $159.98
2.5" cold piping - $90.57
3" cold piping - $137.99
Intercooler - $255
3" v-bands/flanges - $69.98
HKS SSQV BOV (used) - $120
1 Chamber dual in/dual out muffler for crossover - $27.50
Turbo Blankets - $48.84
Now lets see those progress pics right? Here is the $100 used motor ready for disassembly.

Here is the motor completely disassembled. I used a Ryobi 1/2" impact wrench with a 3ah battery and the crank bolt came off after a few ugga duggas.

Next I took the block and crank to the machine shop. Block was pressure checked to ensure it was in good condition. Then it was bored out to 96mm, the crank mains were turned .010 over and the rods were turned .020 over. I ended up buying the ACL rod and main bearings in +.50mm and +.25mm respectively. Parts off to the machine shop!

They assembled my block and all else out the door was $860. Not too shabby I'd say. So far I've spent $2647.11 for the short block which includes the head bolts and head gasket. With the current setup it's built to handle 600ish HP.

Head studs and gasket put in place. Using standard ARP bolts as I am planning on staying under 600 with a GT25 twin turbo set up. Not pictured is the mod for using HR head gaskets.

I managed to snag reworked heads from a guy 4 hours from me. We met in the middle and I purchased a ton of parts off of him. The heads were very hard to find so this came at a good time for me! Now lets see those heads installed.



At this point I ordered the rear main seal, oil pump, water pump and thermostat. I also put the non rev-up rear timing cover since the rev-up timing cover fits. I purchased a rev-up timing cover but it ended up being cracked so I had to send it back. Now I'm waiting for the replacement to arrive.


I also ordered a new timing set, gaskets for the vtc cam timing cover, vtc solenoid on the heads, cam bolts, and a few other bolts I lost during disassembly.... I tried marking the bolts and keeping them grouped but I failed, don't be like me. More pics to follow when more progress is made!
I also want to add I am not a mechanic and my day job is I.T. Network Engineer. I turbo'd the G35 with the TN kit and then the rings went bad, which is what prompted the rebuild. Just a guy who's trying to build up his 16 year old self's dream car.
Here are the parts I've ordered and what it cost me with taxes/shipping:
Used non rev-up motor - $100
ACL Rod Bearing +.50mm oversize - $88.44
ACL Race Main Bearing +.25mm oversize - $72.21
ACL Thrust Washers STD.- $13.77
ARP Head Studs - $150
ARP Main Studs - $150
Weisco Pistons - $650
Eagle Connecting Rods - $499.95
HR Head gasket set - $62.74
Block bore - $195
Block pressure check - $125
Crank Turning - $140
Reassemble - $400
Cylinder head remaned. Right - $346.30
Cylinder head remaned. Left - $346.30
Intake Timing Sprocket(s) - $83
Revup timing cover - front - $95.39
Oil Pump - $89.03
Timing Kit/Cam Bolts/Gaskets - $254.09
Water Pump - $50.87
Thermostat & Timing cover gasket - $35.18
New crank bolt - $17.64
Valve Covers - $100.35
Intake gears - $319.21
SR20 GT2560r turbo x2 - $583
GTM VQ35HR turbo manifolds - $617.85
Stillen Oil Pan - $214.61
Gaskets (intake, exhaust, oil pan, turbo) & studs for turbo manifold - $105.78
Oil Cooler - $131.45
Lightweight crank pulley/alternator pulley - 132.50
ACT Heavy Duty Clutch/LUK DM flywheel (used w/5k miles) - 108.88
CZP Polyurethane motor mounts - 219.95
Mishimoto Radiator (used) - $150
Overflow Tank - $30
Fuel Return line and regulator kit - $394.40
Fuel Rail - $220.24
3" zzperformance ultra quiet resonator x2 - $190.78
2" cold piping - $159.98
2.5" cold piping - $90.57
3" cold piping - $137.99
Intercooler - $255
3" v-bands/flanges - $69.98
HKS SSQV BOV (used) - $120
1 Chamber dual in/dual out muffler for crossover - $27.50
Turbo Blankets - $48.84
Now lets see those progress pics right? Here is the $100 used motor ready for disassembly.

Here is the motor completely disassembled. I used a Ryobi 1/2" impact wrench with a 3ah battery and the crank bolt came off after a few ugga duggas.

Next I took the block and crank to the machine shop. Block was pressure checked to ensure it was in good condition. Then it was bored out to 96mm, the crank mains were turned .010 over and the rods were turned .020 over. I ended up buying the ACL rod and main bearings in +.50mm and +.25mm respectively. Parts off to the machine shop!

They assembled my block and all else out the door was $860. Not too shabby I'd say. So far I've spent $2647.11 for the short block which includes the head bolts and head gasket. With the current setup it's built to handle 600ish HP.

Head studs and gasket put in place. Using standard ARP bolts as I am planning on staying under 600 with a GT25 twin turbo set up. Not pictured is the mod for using HR head gaskets.

I managed to snag reworked heads from a guy 4 hours from me. We met in the middle and I purchased a ton of parts off of him. The heads were very hard to find so this came at a good time for me! Now lets see those heads installed.



At this point I ordered the rear main seal, oil pump, water pump and thermostat. I also put the non rev-up rear timing cover since the rev-up timing cover fits. I purchased a rev-up timing cover but it ended up being cracked so I had to send it back. Now I'm waiting for the replacement to arrive.


I also ordered a new timing set, gaskets for the vtc cam timing cover, vtc solenoid on the heads, cam bolts, and a few other bolts I lost during disassembly.... I tried marking the bolts and keeping them grouped but I failed, don't be like me. More pics to follow when more progress is made!
Last edited by grimvanni; Sep 12, 2021 at 08:43 AM.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 677
Likes: 89
From: Rhode Island
One owner 2004 G35 Coupe 6MT
Subscribed as well. Just an FYI, the pics in your first post aren't showing. I did see them via the imgur link. (I don't think I've ever seen that gauge pod before)
I rehosted the images on a different site and grabbed new links. Let's hope this works better.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 677
Likes: 89
From: Rhode Island
One owner 2004 G35 Coupe 6MT
Yep, I see all of them now.
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Timing components arrived as well as the front timing cover. But I hit a snag, it looks like one of the intake cam gears was cracked. I had to order a new one so I went ahead and ordered two new ones. Should be here within a week. I noticed this after I had set the timing... At least I caught it before I fully assembled the motor. Well this is where I'm currently at with the timing.

My GTM intake manifolds from an HR kit came in. I was skeptical they would fit as I've read mixed reviews. But to my surprise they almost bolted right up. I needed to grind just a bit on the driver side manifold. Will see how they stand the test of time.

My twin turbos also came in that I ordered. I went with stock SR20DET turbos as they were plentiful and will get me to my power goals. I figure i'll run these until they die and then upgrade. I also took some time to get a brass wire dremel bit and cleaned them up as best as I could.


Brand new valve covers are on their way as well. Hopefully I can get everything in within the next few weeks. I also ordered a new TIG welder, than can do aluminum, and picked up a 125 CF can of argon. I am planning on doing all of my piping myself, after I've taught myself how to properly weld.


My GTM intake manifolds from an HR kit came in. I was skeptical they would fit as I've read mixed reviews. But to my surprise they almost bolted right up. I needed to grind just a bit on the driver side manifold. Will see how they stand the test of time.

My twin turbos also came in that I ordered. I went with stock SR20DET turbos as they were plentiful and will get me to my power goals. I figure i'll run these until they die and then upgrade. I also took some time to get a brass wire dremel bit and cleaned them up as best as I could.


Brand new valve covers are on their way as well. Hopefully I can get everything in within the next few weeks. I also ordered a new TIG welder, than can do aluminum, and picked up a 125 CF can of argon. I am planning on doing all of my piping myself, after I've taught myself how to properly weld.

Last edited by grimvanni; May 2, 2021 at 05:52 PM.
Nah these are leftovers that got put up on eBay. Thanks, my welder came in today so after I learn to weld I’ll continue the project!
The intake gears arrived and I was able to set the time set into place. I also got the front timing cover placed after setting the time. I rotated the crank a few times to ensure it didn't hit any of the valves before fully assembling.


I'm still in the process of learning to TIG weld and getting my basics down to where I feel comfortable doing butt welds for aluminum and exhaust piping. I've also generated a list of items still needed to be purchased. I'll be on vacation this coming week so progress may be a bit delayed. Any recommendations from where I currently am feel free to share!


I'm still in the process of learning to TIG weld and getting my basics down to where I feel comfortable doing butt welds for aluminum and exhaust piping. I've also generated a list of items still needed to be purchased. I'll be on vacation this coming week so progress may be a bit delayed. Any recommendations from where I currently am feel free to share!
Get a timer going for your tig welder until you get used to it's duty cycle unless you have a very expensive welder that can be run 100% duty cycle.
Nothing worse than cooking unwanted electrical stuff because you were ignoring a low duty cycle.
It's all based on a 60 second interval. 25% duty cycle means 15 seconds of welding for every 45 seconds of cool down.
Not 1 minute of welding for 3 minutes of cool down
I've cooked low duty cycle equipment, it usually just turns internal wiring to smoke.
Nothing worse than cooking unwanted electrical stuff because you were ignoring a low duty cycle.
It's all based on a 60 second interval. 25% duty cycle means 15 seconds of welding for every 45 seconds of cool down.
Not 1 minute of welding for 3 minutes of cool down

I've cooked low duty cycle equipment, it usually just turns internal wiring to smoke.
Have you made any decisions on oil return, are you using a scavenge pump? This has always been my biggest issue with TT on the VQ engines, there isn't enough room to get the turbo high enough and it's always going to pool oil unless you add a pump which then adds another piece of equipment that can fail in the future.
Personally I'm a bigger fan of the single turbo on the VQ simply because there's room for it up higher.
I'd love to see a front mounted TT that sat a little higher and relocated the power steering reservoir, made a custom coolant reservoir that sat flat up against the right fender, and relocated the radiator hose to make room for a second turbo in that area. Then oil would gravity feed nicely down into the pan without need for a pump.
Personally I'm a bigger fan of the single turbo on the VQ simply because there's room for it up higher.
I'd love to see a front mounted TT that sat a little higher and relocated the power steering reservoir, made a custom coolant reservoir that sat flat up against the right fender, and relocated the radiator hose to make room for a second turbo in that area. Then oil would gravity feed nicely down into the pan without need for a pump.
Ordered a few more parts before I left for vacation and started up working on the motor again today. Got some gaskets that were needed, and some bolts I was missing for the lower intake manifold. I cleaned up the the front timing cover and gave it a fresh new look. What do ya think?


I mocked up the turbos to see how they would be mounted and it looks pretty clean. I still need to order new wastegate actuators and fab up the mounting bracket for them.

I also went ahead and ordered the Stillen oil pan instead of running a spacer. I plan on tapping into the upper oil pan for the oil return as I saw another person do on their 350z. And lastly I got an oil cooler.
I am still needing to source one more exhaust manifold bolt with an allen head that will clear the tight space of the turbo manifold on the passenger side.


I mocked up the turbos to see how they would be mounted and it looks pretty clean. I still need to order new wastegate actuators and fab up the mounting bracket for them.

I also went ahead and ordered the Stillen oil pan instead of running a spacer. I plan on tapping into the upper oil pan for the oil return as I saw another person do on their 350z. And lastly I got an oil cooler.
I am still needing to source one more exhaust manifold bolt with an allen head that will clear the tight space of the turbo manifold on the passenger side.








