Hey everyone, I just bought a 2003 G35 and its in limp mode

Im getting code P1111, P1122, P1126 and P1136

I picked up a throttle body this morning and did the ecu reset without any luck

 

Need to do the throttle body closed position reset, not the ecm reset.

 

Did the reset no luck, also replaced the pedal with no luck and did the relearn for that.

 

Check your throttle control relay, I woke up at about midnight for some reason thinking about your car... it's probably the throttle control relay. I think you can swap that relay with the one for your AC (should be the same relay) but don't swap it with the starter, fuel pump, or ECM relay or the car won't start at all. I'll link a picture of the layout of the IPDM.

Also, P1111 and P1136 are for the VTC actuator solenoids, check it's wiring as well but it's probably just a bad actuator. I would definitely check wiring first though because it's odd that it's throwing codes for BOTH actuators. It's possible those codes are being thrown BECAUSE OF the throttle control failure though so don't worry about these two codes until you get throttle control back.

 

So got home from work cleared the codes, swapped out the Throttle control relay with the A/C relay and still having the same issue

 

Deiced to bust out the multimeter today and check some wires.

Pin 104 had 12.7v
Pin 3 Ign Off 0v Pin 3 Ign On 0v

Did continuity check between Pin 3 and 36 came back good.

 

Just swapped out the IPDM with a known good one. Still no luck. I have no idea what else it could possibly be.

 

Solved! ECM was not grounding out the relay, Pulled the ecm out of a junk car reprogrammed the key with nissan datascan and worked great!

 

Awesome glad you got it all figured out.

 

Basically this is what happened. I wanted to explain why your correction worked. If you look at schematic on throttle control it flows like this.

>> ecm sends key signal (power closed/open) to >> throttle relay (relay responds with either open/closed state) >> throttle body now functions correctly as ecm has given proper voltage and instructions .

knowing this and having a dealership that functions as a master tech part changer they may tell you..
'Well uh we changed the throttle body out but we aren't getting proper voltage'
'Won't go above 1.1K rpm'
'You have too many aftermarket parts we can't properly diagnose we need to get it all back to factory. $3K worth of factory Nissan crap

Know what your Electronic Control Module has master control over the single thing it works with is major engine control and starting / running function.
I'm no 'ASE' guy however I'm a mech that understands that knowing properly how each component is suppose to function throughout a system will save you time and actually makes diagnostic situations turn into 10 minute FIY jobs.


btw. ecu swaps require only one reset which is a key reprogram which you can do in 30 secs if you have a bidirectional scan tool. nisscan datascan II