What should I change when starting a car that's been sitting for two years?
What should I change when starting a car that's been sitting for two years?
I know that new oil and a filter is number 1. My G35 coupe has been sitting for almost two years while it was getting "fixed" Anyway I have it back so what should I change along with the engine oil and filter? Coolant? Should I remove the old gas and put some fresh new shell gas? and any additives that are recommended?
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From: Washington State
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
Just pump all the gas out and fire it up, oil and gas are the only two really important ones. You might have some injector issues that should clear up over the first few miles.
Definitely don't run it with that old gas in it though. Check all the other fluid levels, check tires for any cracking/rot, and tire pressure. Brakes will be bad for the first couple stops so be ready for it.
Also, highly recommend cleaning the windows before driving, it's crazy how much crap builds up on the INSIDE of the glass over two years.
Tires will probably be flat spotted for the first few miles, should clear up though. I wouldn't do anything highway speed until you've put a few city miles on the car just to make sure you don't have a tire about to die, better to lose one at 35mph than 70mph.
Ohh and check your lugnut torque, no telling what's been going on for the last 2 years.
Definitely don't run it with that old gas in it though. Check all the other fluid levels, check tires for any cracking/rot, and tire pressure. Brakes will be bad for the first couple stops so be ready for it.
Also, highly recommend cleaning the windows before driving, it's crazy how much crap builds up on the INSIDE of the glass over two years.
Tires will probably be flat spotted for the first few miles, should clear up though. I wouldn't do anything highway speed until you've put a few city miles on the car just to make sure you don't have a tire about to die, better to lose one at 35mph than 70mph.
Ohh and check your lugnut torque, no telling what's been going on for the last 2 years.
Just pump all the gas out and fire it up, oil and gas are the only two really important ones. You might have some injector issues that should clear up over the first few miles.
Definitely don't run it with that old gas in it though. Check all the other fluid levels, check tires for any cracking/rot, and tire pressure. Brakes will be bad for the first couple stops so be ready for it.
Also, highly recommend cleaning the windows before driving, it's crazy how much crap builds up on the INSIDE of the glass over two years.
Tires will probably be flat spotted for the first few miles, should clear up though. I wouldn't do anything highway speed until you've put a few city miles on the car just to make sure you don't have a tire about to die, better to lose one at 35mph than 70mph.
Ohh and check your lugnut torque, no telling what's been going on for the last 2 years.
Definitely don't run it with that old gas in it though. Check all the other fluid levels, check tires for any cracking/rot, and tire pressure. Brakes will be bad for the first couple stops so be ready for it.
Also, highly recommend cleaning the windows before driving, it's crazy how much crap builds up on the INSIDE of the glass over two years.
Tires will probably be flat spotted for the first few miles, should clear up though. I wouldn't do anything highway speed until you've put a few city miles on the car just to make sure you don't have a tire about to die, better to lose one at 35mph than 70mph.
Ohh and check your lugnut torque, no telling what's been going on for the last 2 years.
BANNED!!!
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 14,837
Likes: 2,497
From: Washington State
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
There's a couple ways, disconnect the fuel damper at the engine and pump out there by bypassing the fuel pump relay (make a jumper that goes to the battery positive), however it's easier to pull the fuel pump (and sub pump) and siphon directly from the tank with a hose though.
Two pull tabs on the rear seat at the front right where the cushion meets the floor carpet, one for each seat, pull them both forward then lift the front of the seat up and it pulls forward to unlatch. Takes about 10 seconds. Then you can unbolt the flange for the pump and sub pump (one on each side of the car) and siphon out the saddle tank. Bolt the flanges back down to 20 INCH/lbs.
Put down a couple old towels or rags so you don't get fuel on the carpet.
You can put a hose down the fuel fill neck but you always risk bending the float arm (my car was siphoned by someone and now I have a fuel level high input code when I have a full tank), plus you're only siphoning out half the tank and I think the driver/left half is not going to backfill the passenger/right/fill neck half because of the venturi configuration in the tank.
Two pull tabs on the rear seat at the front right where the cushion meets the floor carpet, one for each seat, pull them both forward then lift the front of the seat up and it pulls forward to unlatch. Takes about 10 seconds. Then you can unbolt the flange for the pump and sub pump (one on each side of the car) and siphon out the saddle tank. Bolt the flanges back down to 20 INCH/lbs.
Put down a couple old towels or rags so you don't get fuel on the carpet.
You can put a hose down the fuel fill neck but you always risk bending the float arm (my car was siphoned by someone and now I have a fuel level high input code when I have a full tank), plus you're only siphoning out half the tank and I think the driver/left half is not going to backfill the passenger/right/fill neck half because of the venturi configuration in the tank.
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