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The rear left control arm on my 2004 g coupe fell when i hit a pot hole. the bolt literally snapped in half. my boy was looking at it and said i might not need a new control arm, but a new oil pan or it may be something with the subframe. what do you guys think
So you lost the lower spring bucket yeah? And the spring probably feel out yeah?
If so then it's likely the rear subframe that broke, really odd for it to break right there though since it doesn't really have a lot of pressure on that location. I've never seen one damaged like that before?
Was this car modded at all on the rear suspension or was it all stock?
If it is the subframe (looks like it broke right where the spring bucket attaches to the rear subframe, normally there is an eccentric bolt that goes through it and that's how you make alignment adjustments) then it's a pretty straightforward repair. Remove the exhaust, driveaxles, propeller shaft, rear differential, couple more bolts, then the whole thing drops straight down.
This looks like the part that broke, I circled in red exactly where it looks like the attachment point is ripped off. Not exactly sure how this would happen though I've seen some seriously wrecked Gs and 350Zs and never actually seen the subframe wrecked like that because the stock components that connect to it are almost always the weakest link and will bend/break long before it damages the subframe.
If this car was modded and had true coilovers then I could definitely see that breaking the subframe since those aftermarket turnbuckle rods that replace the lower spring bucket are super stout.
So you lost the lower spring bucket yeah? And the spring probably feel out yeah?
If so then it's likely the rear subframe that broke, really odd for it to break right there though since it doesn't really have a lot of pressure on that location. I've never seen one damaged like that before?
Was this car modded at all on the rear suspension or was it all stock?
If it is the subframe (looks like it broke right where the spring bucket attaches to the rear subframe, normally there is an eccentric bolt that goes through it and that's how you make alignment adjustments) then it's a pretty straightforward repair. Remove the exhaust, driveaxles, propeller shaft, rear differential, couple more bolts, then the whole thing drops straight down.
This looks like the part that broke, I circled in red exactly where it looks like the attachment point is ripped off. Not exactly sure how this would happen though I've seen some seriously wrecked Gs and 350Zs and never actually seen the subframe wrecked like that because the stock components that connect to it are almost always the weakest link and will bend/break long before it damages the subframe.
If this car was modded and had true coilovers then I could definitely see that breaking the subframe since those aftermarket turnbuckle rods that replace the lower spring bucket are super stout.
yea basically. the suspensions wasn’t really modded all it had was low springs. i hit a really bad pothole and this happened. i figured it would be the subframe. would i have to replace the whole thing for that small chip or is there a way to weld it and still be able to drive
So you lost the lower spring bucket yeah? And the spring probably feel out yeah?
If so then it's likely the rear subframe that broke, really odd for it to break right there though since it doesn't really have a lot of pressure on that location. I've never seen one damaged like that before?
Was this car modded at all on the rear suspension or was it all stock?
If it is the subframe (looks like it broke right where the spring bucket attaches to the rear subframe, normally there is an eccentric bolt that goes through it and that's how you make alignment adjustments) then it's a pretty straightforward repair. Remove the exhaust, driveaxles, propeller shaft, rear differential, couple more bolts, then the whole thing drops straight down.
This looks like the part that broke, I circled in red exactly where it looks like the attachment point is ripped off. Not exactly sure how this would happen though I've seen some seriously wrecked Gs and 350Zs and never actually seen the subframe wrecked like that because the stock components that connect to it are almost always the weakest link and will bend/break long before it damages the subframe.
If this car was modded and had true coilovers then I could definitely see that breaking the subframe since those aftermarket turnbuckle rods that replace the lower spring bucket are super stout.
oh and thank you for this information i jus realized how super accurate this was. the spring bucket is on the floor but i think the spring was lost as well. my friend was telling me we could prolly weld it but just in case that wouldn’t be a good idea how much would the labor for replacing the frame cost. ik the frame is like 500-600 retail so im tryna calculate rn
You could go to a salvage yard pick-n-pull and cut the tabs off of a donor vehicle. It will need to be TIG welded on though because it's aluminum but that is DEFINITELY an option.
Well I take that back, you MIGHT be able to MIG weld that piece on, it's thin though and would be difficult.
Just take a sawzall down with you to the salvage yard and try to hack out a larger piece than you actually need. The reason you need to salvage one rather than using some other random piece of aluminum is there are indents designed to capture the eccentric washer for the alignment adjuster.
Here's a close up of what it looks like.
And here is the eccentric bolt that goes through it.
The washers on the bolt are captured in place on the subframe, when you rotate the bolt the center shaft moves back-forth to bring the spring bucket in or out to set vehicle alignment properly.
If I had to guess labor on the subframe replacement I'd say 6-7 hours, look up a couple videos on people doing a rear camber kit, that will highlight the suspension removal, then look up videos on people replacing the rear differential bushing, that will highlight the diff and axle removal.
The exhaust components come out quickly so that's not much of a time consumer. The rear subframe is VERY easy to remove, it's just got quite a few other components that need to be removed first, suspension, exhaust, differential (including axles and driveshaft).
You can also look up videos of people replacing the subframe bushings with polyurethane or solid bushings.
Fortunately all those components are commonly replaced items for performance parts so there's a LOT of videos out there on youtube of people taking those things apart, then you can decide if it's a project you want to tackle rather than paying a shop.
Welding on tabs from a donor would be cheaper and easier, but you need to find someone to weld aluminum at your house, or have the vehicle towed to a shop, plus you will need to salvage tabs off a donor.
You could go to a salvage yard pick-n-pull and cut the tabs off of a donor vehicle. It will need to be TIG welded on though because it's aluminum but that is DEFINITELY an option.
Well I take that back, you MIGHT be able to MIG weld that piece on, it's thin though and would be difficult.
Just take a sawzall down with you to the salvage yard and try to hack out a larger piece than you actually need. The reason you need to salvage one rather than using some other random piece of aluminum is there are indents designed to capture the eccentric washer for the alignment adjuster.
Here's a close up of what it looks like.
And here is the eccentric bolt that goes through it.
The washers on the bolt are captured in place on the subframe, when you rotate the bolt the center shaft moves back-forth to bring the spring bucket in or out to set vehicle alignment properly.
If I had to guess labor on the subframe replacement I'd say 6-7 hours, look up a couple videos on people doing a rear camber kit, that will highlight the suspension removal, then look up videos on people replacing the rear differential bushing, that will highlight the diff and axle removal.
The exhaust components come out quickly so that's not much of a time consumer. The rear subframe is VERY easy to remove, it's just got quite a few other components that need to be removed first, suspension, exhaust, differential (including axles and driveshaft).
You can also look up videos of people replacing the subframe bushings with polyurethane or solid bushings.
Fortunately all those components are commonly replaced items for performance parts so there's a LOT of videos out there on youtube of people taking those things apart, then you can decide if it's a project you want to tackle rather than paying a shop.
Welding on tabs from a donor would be cheaper and easier, but you need to find someone to weld aluminum at your house, or have the vehicle towed to a shop, plus you will need to salvage tabs off a donor.
thank u man really appreciate the help fr!!! jus to be sure what’s the name of the bolt so i can purchase it? also would welding it compromise the safety of driving or would it be fine to drive with that piece welded ?
I was just looking fo parts on Z1 motor sports and saw they have a whole used assembly for $275
thought that might help you. I think I saw they had a new one too but it was more $ of course.
Joe
@vqskelli Send me a private message with your address and I'll mail you the bolts. I just tore a set off another G a couple weeks back when I was helping a guy put an adjustable rear suspension on his car.
Those are the OEM bolts, not the aftermarket SPC ones, I just put them in that box. You will not need to do any grinding to make them fit.
