I'm very agitated right now, I'm hoping it doesn't come across that way. Last week I was chasing down the trunk won't open issue, and was pulling the trunk light fuse. The fuse fell, so I just put a new one in. But the new one would not bottom. It felt like the previous fuse legs were stuck in there. I couldn't cram my monster cranium that far back in the vicinity of the clutch pedal to see, nor did I have the old fuse. The new fuse went deep enough to stay and do it's job. I figured out and fixed the trunk opening issue.

Forward one week later. Now I'm chasing the passenger side window won't roll up or down. So I go to pull other fuses (I don't specifically know which fuse or fuses the power window motors use, if you know, please let me know). The first fuse I pulled, didn't fall. When I stood up outside the car to check it, I'll be damned if the legs weren't broken off! THAT'S TWO. I decided not to pull any more so's not to break off any more and make things worse. I pulled that sucker straight out too. No wiggling, no flexing, just straight out.

My questions are:

• Does anyone know for sure which fuse(s) are used by the L and R windows?
• Has this fuse legs breaking happened to anyone else?
  • I'd rather not shove another fuse in on top, but I will if I must.
• Is it possible that some light tapping on a new fuse (once bottomed down on the broken legs) might push the broken legs on out the back side?
  • I don't know the structure where the fuses reside. Perhaps there's nowhere for them to be pushed out.
  • Or perhaps doing so may compromise the contact pressure of the fuse legs to contact terminals.
• What is the correct fix? Is it to remove that fuse box and pry out the broken legs?
  • That doesn't sound easy, or cheap (if taken to a dealer).
  • Is this a common problem for which you guys have already figured out a slick solution? I didn't find it by searching...

Please help if you can. Call me a big dummy if you must ... I feel like one. But I do know how to remove a friggin fuse. Maybe the fuses are extra cheepies sourced by Infiniti, and of poor quality.

Thanks in advance. And sorry if I sound pissed, I am.


7milesout

 

What are you using to pull the fuses out? I typically use a pair of needle nose pliers because who ever has an actual fuse puller handy.

Don't ever just pull the fuse straight out, wiggle it side to side this way as you are pulling.



Never wiggle it this way.



Personally I have never broken a blade off a good blade fuse, either a medium blade or a mini blade. I HAVE however broken the blade off one that had blown up crapastrophically. I use steel dental picks to remove the remnants of the old broken blade. I have one this shape that works GREAT for fitting into stuff like that.



As for pushing the blade deeper, I wouldn't. Worst case scenario you can just unplug the whole Fuse Block - J/B, there's two 10mm bolts holding the housing down and a large harness on the back that plugs in to it. Then you can pop the casing apart and access the fuse holder from the inside and push it back out.

 

I do have some dental picks. Will disconnect the battery and give that a shot.

 

I was not able to pry out the broken off legs. But a new fuse pushes in with force, just like any fuse, and works just like any fuse, it just doesn't sit as deep. So for now, I'm going to roll with that.

I have read all the "window not going up/down" threads I could find. And I still can't seem to resolve my main issue.

The passenger side window will not go up. It is stuck at the bottom. It did not make any noise when pushing the switch button up or down.

I should add that the driver's window works fine. The driver's side switch for the passenger window will not make the passenger window move. And the passenger side window switch will not make the window move. Based on reading other threads, they made it seem like the motor needing cleaning or replacing. I decided to replace it.

I removed all the necessary crap, removed the old motor. When the motor was out, I stuck a 3/8" drive into the window regulator drive and turned. The window raised without much effort. So, it's not that the track and all are too dirty. It moved up nicely considering nothing much was bolted into place. I then put the new motor in place. And everything bolted back in to place nicely. I left everything a bit loose to test the new motor before finishing. I turn the key on, and still, the new motor will not work. Go to the driver's side and the drivers window switch works correctly. Try the driver's side switch for the passenger window, nothing. I have the motor connected, and I have the door switches pulled out of the door trim and it is connected. The rest of the door trim is not installed. It should work.

This has got to be an electrical issue. And me and electrons, well we're enemies. I don't even care that I bought a motor and may not have needed it. I just want to fix the problem.


ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!

 

Unplug the harness on that window motor, stick the probes of your digital multimeter into the 2 pin harness. Window up should be +12v, windows down should swap polarity to -12v.

If you do not have voltage present it's probably broken wires in the flexible loom wireway that goes between the door and the chassis.

Also check the harness on the passenger door switch to make sure you have +12v on pin 10 white wire, as well as ground on pin 11 black wire. You should be able to just probe across pin 10 and 11 and show 12v dc.

I don't think power to the window switch will be your issue since that is also where the driver side switch gets it's power, however that circuit might be broken in the same flexible wire loom that connects the door to the chassis so you need to check it.

 

I have a very valuable lesson to those smarter than me. Could be most everyone on this forum. When any window except the driver's window stops working, first check the passenger(s) windows lockout switch on the driver's door window switch panel. Check that FIRST.

Bear in mind, this is my son's vehicle. And my assumption is that he would understand what that switch does. He claims he didn't know, nor did he notice that he pushed it down. I feel like such a fool for not checking that first. And I am embarrassed. But I am not going to lie about not catching that first. I have told all my sons to read their owner's manuals. There is a lot of stuff in there they will already know, but there's a whole wealth of info in there that they do not. But they have not read them.

So anywho - I was taking the door trim off his driver's door (to reset the auto-up / auto-down and replace the door check) when I noticed this switch position. I was floored. I bought a new window motor due to this issue. Wasted money / lesson learned. I kept the old window motor as it still functions. I have 2 G35's currently in service, and a crashed one that I have yet to get rid of.

The other things I have managed to get done on this son's car during this whole shenanigans.

• Re-fixed the trunk release motor wiring. Previous owner fixed it, but their solder job did not hold up. I resoldered.
• Reset the auto-up / auto-down of both windows.
• Replaced both door checks to eliminate the "shin buster" door action, or whatever that's referred to.

Teenagers don't listen. But at the very least, I have him checking and topping the oil off on a regular basis. At least there's that and he drives responsibly. But ya never know.

Thanks for the efforts, sorry for the false alarm.

 

That is awesome, I should have remembered that button as well.