So I’ve owned my g35 coupe 6mt for about 6 months now, not long after purchase it threw a crankshaft code, so I replaced it, code went away. Then not even a month after that a new code popped up, p0024 [Exhaust (B) Camshaft Position Timing - Over advanced (Bank 2)].
I was doing oil changes regularly and was having to top it off because of leaks and oil burning. Eventually I found the leak and fixed it and did another oil change only 1200 miles after my last. I had started using pennzoil 10w-30 (a while after the code came up) because of how bad it was burning oil. Well after that oil leak fix and oil change the check engine light went off. The car was running much better, this noise I was experiencing at 4K+ rpm that was almost a pulsating sound from the exhaust, went away as well, the lack of power was resolved, 3 days later, the code returned.
The noise and power are still there, but now I have this code and a p2a03 code [02 sensor circuit range/performance Bank 2 Sensor 1].
So far I have not tried any actual repairs, just research, seems like everyone either fixes it with camshaft sensor or they try everything and disappear from their thread.

 

I doubt that code is related to any of the exhaust cam stuff. Also to verify you are aware the exhaust cam retarder is magnetically controlled, it's not driven by oil pressure like the intake cam.

A "pulsating" sound from the exhaust can just be a bad burn condition in the cylinders. Pull, inspect, replace plugs as needed. Since it only happens at 4k+ rpm you might have a slightly clogged fuel filter/strainer on the pump. If the car has 150k or so miles on it then it likely needs replaced.

As for the O2 sensor cycle range code first inspect for vacuum leaks, if you can turn any of the vacuum hoses (pcv system as well as brake booster line) by hand then they're leaking and need a better clamp. Look very closely at the intake pipe as well.

Next would be to real-time monitor the O2 sensors to make sure they cycle properly at idle. BAFX bluetooth OBD2 adapter and the Android app Torque Pro is an excellent way to watch realtime data.

If you find any vacuum leaks then do an ECM reset and see if the code stays off. Just to verify, did you use a Genuine OEM Nissan cam sensor or a Hitachi (the OEM manufacturer for the sensor) ?

 

Thanks for the reply! I’ll look into all of this for sure and get back to you on how that works out! I was going the route of replacing the vtc cover and cam gear, but that’s very pricey so I’d rather exhaust my other options. Any additional feedback is much appreciated!!

 

Also I don’t think the crankshaft sensor I used was a oem and Infiniti part it was given to me with the car. Any solutions for the p0024 code?

 

I would unplug both the exhaust magnet retarders on bank 1 and bank 2 and measure ohms across them to see if they are both the same. If the numbers are quite different then you might just need to replace the bank 2 magnet retarder.

I would also swap the bank2 exhaust cam sensor with the bank1 intake cam sensor since they are the exact same sensor, that will verify the cam sensor isn't the issue. If the car starts throwing a bank1 intake cam sensor code then you know that sensor is faulty.

Personally I would replace the crank sensor you swapped with an aftermarket just because they are HIGHLY notorious for causing issues with these engines, OEM Nissan or Hitachi only for all your engine sensors. If your problems existed with the previous sensor then I doubt it will fix this issue but at least it will help prevent further issues in the future.

Here is the layout of the cam sensors from the rear of the engine.

 

Just picked up new plugs and a hitachi driver side bank 2 camshaft sensor. Putting all of that on right now. Also found my intake leak check this out lol

 

So here’s a little update, I installed new NGK Iridium spark plugs, and the new hitachi camshaft position sensor, the old camshaft position sensor bolt was hand tight, also was covered in silicone like someone tried to seal it, so I cleaned the hole and around it and peeled off the silicone, then installed the new cam sensor with oil on O-ring.

I know this is ghetto but I ducktaped the hell out of the boot that was torn and added zip ties to the missing areas where there were clamps.

I have now just got back from an almost 40 mile drive and the car is running great! Check engine light is off and It is idling and running smoother than ever, it seems like it picked up all the responsiveness it lacked before and the power it has now, left me smiling the whole ride. Didn’t beat on it hard at all but I can’t wait to see what it can do another time.

I will continue to keep you updated on the status of the car and if the light comes back, thanks for all your help!

 

For the future, electrical tape works better than duct tape for temporary bandaid fixes on those flex sections. Pick up another one at a local pick-n-pull salvage yard.

 

Little update, 3 days after engine light went off and car was running better, the light came back on and the car went back to being sluggish. Just to verify it was the car and not me, I drove my buddy’s G35 coupe same exact model as mine. His felt a lot better than mine. I had a diag done for my A/C and they found that I lost power to my A/C compressor at the IPDM, so I just replaced it today. Gotta trace down some wiring issues, seems to have blown the tail lamp fuse like it did in the previous IPDM. Will keep y’all posted any help or advice is appreciated.

 

Isolate the circuit for the tail lamp, start by unplugging both and see if the fuse will hold (when you apply brakes) if it pops then check around the trunk wiring area, keep moving back up the wiring harness. Usually things like this are at the flexible sections but the coupe doesn't have one.

It's very easy to remove ALL the trunk liner components down to the sheet metal, just a bunch of carpet and plastic stuff, then you can easily see all the wiring.

Personally I don't even use all those plastic dividers on the sides of the spare tire, just pull them out and throw them in the attic and it almost doubles your trunk space, leave the carpet in place to sit on top of the computers for HICAS and other stuff at the bottom of the trunk.

 

Found that the wires running between the passenger side fender well and my passenger side headlight (FYI: I am not running fender wells on my car) have been chewed through by the tire, looks like an animal chewed it. I assume it’s from a combination of them hanging freely and me being lowered with no fender wells and meaty tires. We are gonna strip and re-wire these and see if that is the root of our issue.

 

Hey I got a question, I’m replacing my vtc cover and the gasket, Is the cam gear replacement required with that??

 

The P0024 is for the exhaust cam so no, you won't be replacing cam gears. If you had INTAKE cam codes then yes, but you don't.

 

Thanks again for your help!! You are awesome!

 

Hey, so I went through with getting the VTC cover replaced, I had a dealer put a used one I got from a reputable company on and program it. (Side note: I’m getting my A/C diagnosed, which is why it was there, turns out my ambient temperature sensor was completely missing which was throwing off the system and not allowing my A/C controls to communicate to the IPDM and tell the compressor to cut on.)
Basically I got updated that the “new” VTC cover didn’t change anything, still throwing a CEL. Would it be possible since the whole wiring harness for the car is one inter-connected circle that the ambient temp sensor is not only throwing off the A/C controls but the power to the VTC cover??