Clutch pedal help
Clutch pedal help
Alright i’ve posted a couple threads already on this issue, however i can’t seem to find any solution anywhere online or even identifix or ALLdata.
So basically i found that my clutch pedal when depressed as soon as it goes a 1/4 way down springs to the floor and i can pull it back with my hand and it springs back in place this has not happened to me until after i replaced the rear main. I’ve checked my slave cylinder and it does not actuate, so i bled the slave cylinder. After two bleeds it was just air and bubbles. I follow my lines and there are no visible leaks in the slave cylinder fluid system. I continue to try bleeding with the clearly non functioning pedal, after about 30+ tries and 150+ pumps later still no fluid bleeding out nor actuating of the slave. My pedal system, clutch, pressure plate, TO spring and fork are all Confirmed to be in correct placement. I’ve got tired of trying to release whatever “air” is in the system since clearly that can’t be the problem.
my steps in bleeding were
1.remove reservoir cap
2. depress pedal 4-10 times
3. losses bleeder valve and close
4. repeat
It seems given my symptoms i may be the only person online with this issue. Could my CMC have gone bad all of a sudden? I’m at a loss and can’t find a diagnosis to the pedal / slave cylinder failure . Close to taking it to a shop or hiring a mobile mechanic.
So basically i found that my clutch pedal when depressed as soon as it goes a 1/4 way down springs to the floor and i can pull it back with my hand and it springs back in place this has not happened to me until after i replaced the rear main. I’ve checked my slave cylinder and it does not actuate, so i bled the slave cylinder. After two bleeds it was just air and bubbles. I follow my lines and there are no visible leaks in the slave cylinder fluid system. I continue to try bleeding with the clearly non functioning pedal, after about 30+ tries and 150+ pumps later still no fluid bleeding out nor actuating of the slave. My pedal system, clutch, pressure plate, TO spring and fork are all Confirmed to be in correct placement. I’ve got tired of trying to release whatever “air” is in the system since clearly that can’t be the problem.
my steps in bleeding were
1.remove reservoir cap
2. depress pedal 4-10 times
3. losses bleeder valve and close
4. repeat
It seems given my symptoms i may be the only person online with this issue. Could my CMC have gone bad all of a sudden? I’m at a loss and can’t find a diagnosis to the pedal / slave cylinder failure . Close to taking it to a shop or hiring a mobile mechanic.
It does sound like air in the line, the biggest issue with bleeding these cars is you have to bleed VERY rapidly because any bubbles in the line quickly float back up to the top.
Personally I use a motive bleeder with the generic adapter.
Personally I use a motive bleeder with the generic adapter.
i’ve tried every method including gravity bleeding even using a bleeder kit. I’ve tried again as i got home however fluid did come out the valve but same issue with pedal.
one thing i guess i haven’t mentioned was my fluid does seem a bit dirtier than before. It was always a bit dirty and system worked fine. I’m assuming with that dirty fluid my master cylinder has failed. But so abruptly after repairs ? i don’t know, wouldn’t want to spend the $100 on a new cylinder if that doesn’t solve the issue
Motive bleeder is the best...or get a cheaper ez bleed.
Say no to the vacuum ****.
doing the proper job alone is impossible without the right tools.
Say no to the vacuum ****.
doing the proper job alone is impossible without the right tools.
Last edited by shurur; Nov 27, 2021 at 10:31 AM.
Bleeding the clutches on these things is almost impossible even with a second person lol. The bubbles float back up the line so fast you almost can't pump the pedal, hold, open/close the system, rinse/repeat fast enough to actually get them out without a motive bleeder.
That's why a lot of folks just opt to gravity bleed them but even then it's tricky. You have to gravity bleed for like 30 seconds with the pedal up, then push the pedal past the fulcrum on the spring assist to make it snap down, then close the bleeder, refill the reservoir, pull the pedal back up, then gravity bleed again for 30 seconds, stroke the pedal to the down position, close the bleeder, rinse/repeat like a dozen times.
Without that extra pedal stroke to quickly push fluid/air down the line you will never get the bubbles out, they float up the line quicker than the fluid flows, thus why the Motive is practically mandatory.
That's why a lot of folks just opt to gravity bleed them but even then it's tricky. You have to gravity bleed for like 30 seconds with the pedal up, then push the pedal past the fulcrum on the spring assist to make it snap down, then close the bleeder, refill the reservoir, pull the pedal back up, then gravity bleed again for 30 seconds, stroke the pedal to the down position, close the bleeder, rinse/repeat like a dozen times.
Without that extra pedal stroke to quickly push fluid/air down the line you will never get the bubbles out, they float up the line quicker than the fluid flows, thus why the Motive is practically mandatory.
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i haven’t replaced the master cylinder . I ended up using a bleeder pump to pump as much fluid out of slave as possible and stopped after abiut an hour while using a second person. next day the pedal finally had resistance surprisingly and was able to normally bleed it and after about 20-30 tries all air was finally out of system. Took way longer than ive ever needed in any bleed ive done which had me confused.
Honestly I don't recommend bench bleeding these clutch master cylinders, and according to the FSM they don't have you bench bleed it either.
It's too tight in the compartment where you have to install it and if you bench bleed you're basically just going to be getting brake fluid EVERYWHERE due to how difficult it is to get the compression fit line back on. Plus it's one small passageway for the fluid to pump through, not like a brake master cylinder that has slightly more complex internals.
It's too tight in the compartment where you have to install it and if you bench bleed you're basically just going to be getting brake fluid EVERYWHERE due to how difficult it is to get the compression fit line back on. Plus it's one small passageway for the fluid to pump through, not like a brake master cylinder that has slightly more complex internals.
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