So I recently bought a 2007 G35 Coupe and the trunk was not opening(Had to climb inside and pull the safety latch) and the trunk light does not work as well as the 3rd brake light on the inside of the car. The button in the driver foot well does not activate the trunk release and the button from the exterior does not as well. I do not have a Key FOB for the car to test if that works. The car does not have the spoiler, and I've been tracing wires for the past 2 days. So far what I have found is the Valet Switch in the glove box is working and switched ON (I've Bypassed it with a lead to make sure that wasn't bad). All the wires are still in oem quality in the trunk area and I've confirmed the motor for the trunk release works perfectly fine (Took a 12V tester to it). It is very strange, The entire trunk is out of the car down to bare metal and wires and they all are intact. The only thing I've found is when the BLACK and RED wire that lead to the trunk release are touched the trunk light turns on. I checked the voltage on the BLACK and RED wire and it measure at 2.56V and something like 19mah so it has super high resistance. And for the GREEN wire it has zero continuity when tested with the RED and BLACK wire as well as to the chassis. However after pulling out the wires for the trunk switch I found it has voltage to ground something like .3V. Like I said all the wires that I can see are intact and functional except the GREEN wire (which from what I've read should send a 12V pulse when the trunk release is pushed which it doesn't). As for the 3rd brake light I pulled it out and It doesn't receive any voltage when activated. Fuse for the tail lights were blown and I replaced that and checked all the fuses (Yes all 3 fuse boxes worth) and at this point I am about to rewire the trunk release on the tail light as a bypass and forget the 3rd brake light.

Sorry It is a long write up I am just completely lost for words and considering this is my first Infiniti I am frustrated. Could I just have a half functioning BCM module that only affected those 3 systems? Please Help. Thank you

 

Should I go to the stealership to get a FOB for the car just to see if that will open the trunk?

 

I noticed u said u took a 12v tester to the wires for the trunk latch release motor. I dunno how u tested it but if the wires are delivering 12v to the latch motor and the motor isnt moving, then the motor is bad.

I dont think your trunk latch issue and 3rd brake light are related. Fix the trunk first, then tackle the brake light later.

 

Yeah those are two separate systems, it's not uncommon for the 3rd brake light to go out or to work intermittently.

The trunk lid opener though is fuse 18 in the Fuse Block - J/B cabin fuse panel.

How the system works, the trunk opener cancel switch in the glove box goes to both the switch on the dash and the passenger door, the passenger door must be in the unlocked position then it connects to the button in the trunk, they don't have voltage it's a signaling circuit to GROUND. When the BCM sees ground on that wire it actuates the trunk opener.

Also, a separate circuit that is not part of the glove box lockout, when the BCM detects the fob trunk open button is pressed it actuates the trunk opener.

The BCM sends a pulse of 12vdc to the trunk opener when it detects someone has hit the fob, the rear trunk button, or the driver trunk button. The canceler only disables the button on the trunk itself. That control side circuit (the buttons) operate at 5vdc.

BCM pin 68 green/white stripe is the 12vdc power to the trunk lock opener, backprobe that harness for voltage to see if it's even sending a signal. Also backprobe the other end of the wire at the trunk actuator green wire. If you have 12vdc pulse then the circuit is fine and the actuator is shot.

If you don't have 12vdc pulse at the BCM then verify the signal circuit is intact, you can simply take BCM pin 30, pink wire, backprobe it and tap the wire to ground momentarily. That sends the same signal to the BCM as if you had pressed the trunk release button.

If you momentarily ground BCM pin 30 and STILL do not have a 12vdc pulse on pin 68 then it's probably a failing BCM.

The trunk will not open with the key in the ignition. Well I thought this was a thing but apparently not.

Do you have an intelligent key system? Or do you have to insert the key into the dash to start the car?

Keep in mind this harness pinout is from the perspective of looking at the FRONT of the harness where it plugs into the BCM. Looking at the back where the wires are it will be mirrored so verify wire colors when backprobing.

 

I know the latch itself is fine because I took it apart and sent 12V with a tester through the green wire and black wire, Clicks as it should.
I will test the BCM tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks a ton.