Horsepower + torque doesn't always =faster
#16
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Originally Posted by sillyhenry
Gearing also plays a major role in 1/4 mile times...
Two changes that comes to mind. Gear change to 5.15 final drive and a set of sticky "Slicks" 3450 LB car 336 rwhp. IM feeling 11s and about 120 mph 1/4 mile. Ouch" How could somebody do that to a G35. The Gs just are not set up for drag racing. 50% of the gearing is reserved for above 100 mph speeds. Not bad at all for a 3.5 liter engine.
Drag racing!! I still hear" the parts breaking.
#18
All this talk about speed, horsepower, torque has got my head hurting. I say if you don't live for the drag-strip/auto-X etc....then get over it! Tenths of seconds make no difference on the streets. How often do you take it to redline from one stop light to the other?
Its a quick car and if you drive on the streets, then we don't need to be talking about this. But again thats ONLY my opinion.
I bought the car because it is overall quick, elegant and Im not part of the general crowd (i.e. MB, BMW, ACURA, etc...).
This is more of a topic for people who race thier cars on straight aways...LEGALLY.
Its a quick car and if you drive on the streets, then we don't need to be talking about this. But again thats ONLY my opinion.
I bought the car because it is overall quick, elegant and Im not part of the general crowd (i.e. MB, BMW, ACURA, etc...).
This is more of a topic for people who race thier cars on straight aways...LEGALLY.
#19
#20
Originally Posted by neffster
True story... I rode in Gspot35's Vortec S/C'd sedan and we raced an early 2000 model year corvette. He smoked it in his G35 Sedan. He did not spent $10,000 and he smoked the vette, and for the record the vette was clearly racing him because when the 2 lanes merged into one Craig slowed down and the vette was all over Craigs butt when we slowed down.
The problem is the initiall traction when you're at a stand still. If you're at a roll of 5-10 mph, you can still get major acceleration and not spin the tires too badly with FI on the G35. It's the dumping of the clutch from a dead stop (with steel belted radials) with the additoinal 100rwhp that's killing all of the 1/4 mile times.
![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The problem is the initiall traction when you're at a stand still. If you're at a roll of 5-10 mph, you can still get major acceleration and not spin the tires too badly with FI on the G35. It's the dumping of the clutch from a dead stop (with steel belted radials) with the additoinal 100rwhp that's killing all of the 1/4 mile times.
#21
Originally Posted by Z2G
i find that almost unbelievable....why would nissan make an "anniversary edition", market it with "more" hp and power, and have it actually slower than the previous 287 hp 350z's? that would be a serious marketing blunder. you would think that the developers would access if the increase in hp would increase performance. if it does not, would just being able to advertise 300 hp be a good move if it's actually slower? previous car and driver mags report the 03 350z running at 5.4 sec 0-60. that's a serious downgrade if true.
It will sell them faster.
#22
Originally Posted by neffster
True story... I rode in Gspot35's Vortec S/C'd sedan and we raced an early 2000 model year corvette. He smoked it in his G35 Sedan. He did not spent $10,000 and he smoked the vette, and for the record the vette was clearly racing him because when the 2 lanes merged into one Craig slowed down and the vette was all over Craigs butt when we slowed down.
The problem is the initiall traction when you're at a stand still. If you're at a roll of 5-10 mph, you can still get major acceleration and not spin the tires too badly with FI on the G35. It's the dumping of the clutch from a dead stop (with steel belted radials) with the additoinal 100rwhp that's killing all of the 1/4 mile times.
![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The problem is the initiall traction when you're at a stand still. If you're at a roll of 5-10 mph, you can still get major acceleration and not spin the tires too badly with FI on the G35. It's the dumping of the clutch from a dead stop (with steel belted radials) with the additoinal 100rwhp that's killing all of the 1/4 mile times.
I was just about to post what he said ^.
Neff is exactly right. The extra hp puts a new dimension on taking off from a dead stop. I can't really do any better 0-60 times with FI than when it was stock.
1/4 mile times you will see somewhat of a better time due to the fact that you have a longer distance to make up what you have lost starting off.
If all the cars tested were on Drag Slicks you would have seen a vast difference in times.
#23
#24
Originally Posted by OldVFRGuy
Who the hell buys (or cares about) a G35 for 1/4 mle, straight line Drag Racing?????
For me....it is all about the curves, corners and handleing in the twisties!!!
My mod money is going to wheels, tires, springs, shocks and sways!!!![Stick Out Tongue](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
![Confused](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
For me....it is all about the curves, corners and handleing in the twisties!!!
My mod money is going to wheels, tires, springs, shocks and sways!!!
![Stick Out Tongue](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
#25
Straight-line acceleration requires a lot more than just hp and torque. They keys to quick acceleration are:
Traction
Weight
WHP
WTQ
HP Curve
TQ Curve
A number of modifications increase peak HP and TQ at the expense of the HP and TQ curves. In other words, they restrict all of the power to a very narrow band in the rev range. Unless you really know how to drive only in that range (assuming your gearing even allows you to do so) you are likely to see a decrease in performance. While this is much less intrusive in straight-line performance, it is often plainly obvious in the twisties.
Traction
Weight
WHP
WTQ
HP Curve
TQ Curve
A number of modifications increase peak HP and TQ at the expense of the HP and TQ curves. In other words, they restrict all of the power to a very narrow band in the rev range. Unless you really know how to drive only in that range (assuming your gearing even allows you to do so) you are likely to see a decrease in performance. While this is much less intrusive in straight-line performance, it is often plainly obvious in the twisties.
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