Internal window and lock buttons not working
Internal window and lock buttons not working
Hello everyone. I have a 2004 sedan g35 and I’m having trouble trying to figure out why my internal buttons won’t work for lowering the windows and locking/unlocking the doors. My sunroof is able to open and all. Every window button has the light on besides the ds buttons. I tried to see if it was just the driver side buttons not working but all the buttons on the doors don’t even make a clicking noise when I try to lower the windows. All my windows are up and closed, I just need them to start working because these heat waves are hitting hard and I want to at least have them down until my AC does its job. Can you guys help me figure out what may cause this issue. (I checked if a fuse was blown but everything looks good)
Ok so the driver and passenger front door lock buttons are both separate and both send signal back to the BCM. The chances of BOTH switches failing is unlikely. This makes me think it's a BCM issue.
However you should check Fuse 21 (10 amp) in Fuse Block - J/B (cabin fuse box) to make sure it's not just a blown fuse.
Same thing with the power window switches, the driver side seat handles that window and both the rear seats also connect to that driver seat switch. But the passenger side switch is a separate connection to the BCM, again this makes me think it's a BCM issue.
However, power windows uses fuses 1 and 6 (both 10 amp) in the same Fuse Block - J/B
I think it's highly unlikely that all 3 of those fuses blew out in FB-J/B, but they also all get power from Fusible Link slot F (50am), this is the positive battery terminal, it's a fusible link with all the master fuses for the various systems of the car.
Fusible Link F handles a lot of systems. Door locks, keyless entry, security, NATS, window defroster, sunroof, auto headlights, various internal lights, wipers, heated seats, etc. Unless ALL of these things failed then you're probably looking at a bad BCM.
I would definitely get a diagnostic at Nissan before just replacing it though, their Consult-II/III dealership tool can literally see the signal going from each switch and they're better able to diagnose the issue.
However you should check Fuse 21 (10 amp) in Fuse Block - J/B (cabin fuse box) to make sure it's not just a blown fuse.
Same thing with the power window switches, the driver side seat handles that window and both the rear seats also connect to that driver seat switch. But the passenger side switch is a separate connection to the BCM, again this makes me think it's a BCM issue.
However, power windows uses fuses 1 and 6 (both 10 amp) in the same Fuse Block - J/B
I think it's highly unlikely that all 3 of those fuses blew out in FB-J/B, but they also all get power from Fusible Link slot F (50am), this is the positive battery terminal, it's a fusible link with all the master fuses for the various systems of the car.
Fusible Link F handles a lot of systems. Door locks, keyless entry, security, NATS, window defroster, sunroof, auto headlights, various internal lights, wipers, heated seats, etc. Unless ALL of these things failed then you're probably looking at a bad BCM.
I would definitely get a diagnostic at Nissan before just replacing it though, their Consult-II/III dealership tool can literally see the signal going from each switch and they're better able to diagnose the issue.
Ok so the driver and passenger front door lock buttons are both separate and both send signal back to the BCM. The chances of BOTH switches failing is unlikely. This makes me think it's a BCM issue.
However you should check Fuse 21 (10 amp) in Fuse Block - J/B (cabin fuse box) to make sure it's not just a blown fuse.
Same thing with the power window switches, the driver side seat handles that window and both the rear seats also connect to that driver seat switch. But the passenger side switch is a separate connection to the BCM, again this makes me think it's a BCM issue.
However, power windows uses fuses 1 and 6 (both 10 amp) in the same Fuse Block - J/B
I think it's highly unlikely that all 3 of those fuses blew out in FB-J/B, but they also all get power from Fusible Link slot F (50am), this is the positive battery terminal, it's a fusible link with all the master fuses for the various systems of the car.
Fusible Link F handles a lot of systems. Door locks, keyless entry, security, NATS, window defroster, sunroof, auto headlights, various internal lights, wipers, heated seats, etc. Unless ALL of these things failed then you're probably looking at a bad BCM.
I would definitely get a diagnostic at Nissan before just replacing it though, their Consult-II/III dealership tool can literally see the signal going from each switch and they're better able to diagnose the issue.
However you should check Fuse 21 (10 amp) in Fuse Block - J/B (cabin fuse box) to make sure it's not just a blown fuse.
Same thing with the power window switches, the driver side seat handles that window and both the rear seats also connect to that driver seat switch. But the passenger side switch is a separate connection to the BCM, again this makes me think it's a BCM issue.
However, power windows uses fuses 1 and 6 (both 10 amp) in the same Fuse Block - J/B
I think it's highly unlikely that all 3 of those fuses blew out in FB-J/B, but they also all get power from Fusible Link slot F (50am), this is the positive battery terminal, it's a fusible link with all the master fuses for the various systems of the car.
Fusible Link F handles a lot of systems. Door locks, keyless entry, security, NATS, window defroster, sunroof, auto headlights, various internal lights, wipers, heated seats, etc. Unless ALL of these things failed then you're probably looking at a bad BCM.
I would definitely get a diagnostic at Nissan before just replacing it though, their Consult-II/III dealership tool can literally see the signal going from each switch and they're better able to diagnose the issue.
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Some Nissan dealers will, some won't. Just depends on their policies. Shop around if the first one you ask won't do it. As a general rule, a Nissan dealer will be cheaper than an Infiniti dealer (luxury mark-up, doncha y'know!).
As a comment, I've noticed more and more dealers won't work on cars over 10 years since they don't seem to have the books, tools, or experience anymore to work on them. Not always and not all things, but I've seen this now across the board at a variety of dealerships from friends who still take their car to dealerships. My cars are all so old when I've bought them they are already 10 years or more old, so light on the dealer support.
I prefer, if I ever take my car somewhere, to go to a specialist, such as an Asian automotive only repair shop, more likely to have experience in the type of issues with older cars.
I prefer, if I ever take my car somewhere, to go to a specialist, such as an Asian automotive only repair shop, more likely to have experience in the type of issues with older cars.
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Typically if you call and talk to the service manager and tell him EXACTLY what you want, in this case to have them plug in Consult-III and check the BCM to see if it's receiving the signal for the window/door lock actuation, and to test the output side but ONLY working within Consult, then they're ok with working cross-platform like that.
However it depends on their current work schedule, if they're packed with repairs they might turn you down.
If there's an Infiniti dealership in town they might just refer you to them, it really depends on your town.
However it depends on their current work schedule, if they're packed with repairs they might turn you down.
If there's an Infiniti dealership in town they might just refer you to them, it really depends on your town.
Or you can go through the FSM and trace those wires back to the BCM, then backprobe the harness and press the window button to see if the signal is going back to the BCM. Then backprobe the door lock actuator wires and do the same thing.
If it's not the fusible link my gut feeling is your BCM **** the bed.
If it's not the fusible link my gut feeling is your BCM **** the bed.
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hollowch
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