Fried Trunk Actuator?
Fried Trunk Actuator?
So previously I have worked on my trunk due to the common issue of Infiniti not providing enough wire through the trunk which lead to the wires snapping and needing soldering. Months have passed since fixing it and after multiple car washes, it seemed to stopped working again due to water getting into the solder. I did a poor job e-taping up the finished solders and I guess when I washed my trunk area, water has seeped into the tape. It's been 4 days since the wash, hoping it would be dry by now but I think I permanently damaged it. Any way to fix this or find out if I fried it?
Water touching the soldered wire will not damage it. Once everything dried up, it should have started working again.
Im guessing either your solder broke again or your actuator went bad.
By the way, make sure u havent accidentally turned on the trunk lockout switch in the glove compartment.
Im guessing either your solder broke again or your actuator went bad.
By the way, make sure u havent accidentally turned on the trunk lockout switch in the glove compartment.
I strongly recommend shrink tube and not electrical tape. Tape has this annoying tendency to unravel over time.
If you do end up retaping it get yourself some good 3M Super 33+ or Super 35. It's a little gummier than the standard Temflex 65 tape. Home Depot usually carries 3M electrical tape or you can buy it online.
If you're using cheapo Harbor Freight tape that stuff will never stick to itself for any length of time.
If you do end up retaping it get yourself some good 3M Super 33+ or Super 35. It's a little gummier than the standard Temflex 65 tape. Home Depot usually carries 3M electrical tape or you can buy it online.
If you're using cheapo Harbor Freight tape that stuff will never stick to itself for any length of time.
Finally got the trunk working again. It was indeed ONE snapped wired that did it. I eventually re-enforced all the wires and used butt connectors, which I somewhat regret due to the size and making the cables to stiff. Hopefully it’ll hold up though as I do not want to deal with the trunk again.
Shrink tube and solder the connection, that's a more permanent fix. Butt splice is going to break right where the conductors touch the metal crimp section eventually.
For a REAL permanent fix replace every one of those conductors with some good GPT or GXL (preferrably GXL beacause it's more flexible) wire and leave enough slack for them to not be tight inside that rubber flex section.
For a REAL permanent fix replace every one of those conductors with some good GPT or GXL (preferrably GXL beacause it's more flexible) wire and leave enough slack for them to not be tight inside that rubber flex section.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post








