Diagnostic Code P0102
Diagnostic Code P0102
My 2005 g35 coupe quit at a light but immediately restarted. I have driven it several times since with no problems. I never got a Check Engine Light, so it was hard to diagnose the problem.
I figured it was not fuel related, since it abruptly quit. So, I decided to clean the MAF sensor and Throttle Body, the first time ever. After that I got a CEL.
I took it to Oreilly's for a scan (see attached). When I got home I checked the wiring and discovered the connection had not 'clicked' in. It seemed to be running rough on the first trip.
On the second trip to Oreilly's for a new scan, the car ran smoothly and the idle seemed normal. Both Scans were the same (attached). The tech said the CEL might go off after a 'Drive Cycle'.
I disconnected the MAF while the car was running and it did not quit. Does that mean anything?
Should I just replace the MAF? If so, do I buy a Hitachi brand?
Thanks for any feedback.
I figured it was not fuel related, since it abruptly quit. So, I decided to clean the MAF sensor and Throttle Body, the first time ever. After that I got a CEL.
I took it to Oreilly's for a scan (see attached). When I got home I checked the wiring and discovered the connection had not 'clicked' in. It seemed to be running rough on the first trip.
On the second trip to Oreilly's for a new scan, the car ran smoothly and the idle seemed normal. Both Scans were the same (attached). The tech said the CEL might go off after a 'Drive Cycle'.
I disconnected the MAF while the car was running and it did not quit. Does that mean anything?
Should I just replace the MAF? If so, do I buy a Hitachi brand?
Thanks for any feedback.
It's unfortunate that most auto parts houses won't clear codes anymore, must be some kind of legality issue they got into.
Yes just drive it for a week and it should self-clear, if it misbehaves though then there's still something else wrong. I doubt the MAF was the original reason why the engine died though, does it idle smoothly? Listen at the exhaust tip and make sure it's perfectly rhythmic and doesn't have any arrhythmic stuttering. Also from a stop, 100% throttle and make sure it's very responsive and doesn't feel like there's a delay.
Yes just drive it for a week and it should self-clear, if it misbehaves though then there's still something else wrong. I doubt the MAF was the original reason why the engine died though, does it idle smoothly? Listen at the exhaust tip and make sure it's perfectly rhythmic and doesn't have any arrhythmic stuttering. Also from a stop, 100% throttle and make sure it's very responsive and doesn't feel like there's a delay.
Thanks, I tried to put a Multimeter on the MAF, but I could not get a paper clip in the connector, I did not want to damage the wires. I did test the connector itself and got 12.80v, so that appears to be good.
It seems to idle ok and run fine as before. When I did not completely connect to the MAF, it ran a little rough and seemed to sputter.
It seems to idle ok and run fine as before. When I did not completely connect to the MAF, it ran a little rough and seemed to sputter.
I noticed the idle was over 1000 rpm, I think it should be ~ 650rpm. I did a 'Throttle Position Learning' and the rpm dropped. So we will see how it goes. Also, I cleared the CEL by disconnecting the negative on the battery and pumping the brakes. Much simpler than the elaborate one. I am no mechanic, but I think you are right about the MAF not being the culprit. I have learned more about my car in the past few weeks, than the previous 19 years.
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