I am trying to get help so I'm resorting to this and maybe a fellow G person can help... I just replaced both camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft sensor after seeing on here that I should do all the sensors at the same time I will add that I tried parts store once to no avail so I went and ordered the Hitachi ones of RockAuto install them today and I'm still having the same problem the car will crank but doesn't start or even seem to be turning over to start the crank is strong and nothing else ever placed the plugs and the coils are good I'm not sure why it seems that I'm not getting spark or fuel but I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key on I have checked the EVAP service port and there is no fuel that comes out I'm kind of lost any information or thoughts would be greatly appreciated and a little back info I had started with the sensors because right before my car took a s*** on me on the side of the road I had left AutoZone not 5 minutes before this because it was running like s*** and it had the code p0340 camshaft position sensor bank one and that is the last time I got a code right before it died and now there is no codes showing up I guess because I had the battery unhooked to do the work and I cant even get it to start to try reading new codes.. i hope maybe this is enough info to try getting some help on figuring out my problem. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!! I don't want to give up on the G I've done everything myself and invested alot but I'm running low on answers and hope!!!

 

Are you 100% sure you have gas in the tank? We had a recent crank no start poster with a bad gas gauge (common problem) that never indicated below half tank so he didn't know he was completely out of gas. It's always good to check the easiest things first by putting a gallon of gas in it. Spraying starter fluid into the airbox is also one of the easy and cheap things to try to confirm if fuel delivery is the problem. The car will start and run for a moment until the starter fluid is consumed but at least you'll know if everything else works. You don't have a security light lit on the dash, right? The red or yellow key indicator that would tell you the immobilizer is keeping the car from starting. You should be able to read codes even with key on engine off so no-start shouldn't prevent you from reading the codes. I think the Inifiniti FSM is available again on the Nicoclub website and it will have a no start troubleshooting guide to help you systematically debug the car to be sure you don't miss something. Good luck.

 

Hey thanks for your answer bud I don't see any light at all on the little security light on dash by clock now I'm not sure if that means it's blown or if it just isn't picking up a security issue. But I just came out to try cranking to see if light was actually flashing or not and the battery is dead so I'm not sure what is drawing the juice overnight but that's new I believe but I'm checking fuel pump now to see if it's actually drawing fuel or not but I'm kinda lost man! And the code that was on it at AutoZone that morning was --P0340 camshaft position sensor A Circuit (bank1 or single sensor) that was word for word what sheet from AutoZone said. So idk but checking fuel pump now and IDK where to go from here I was also thinking maybe frayed or broken ground wire somewhere so I'll trace those too while I'm at it. I just want to give up but I'm so deep into now!! Idk man

 

Pull the timing chain tensioner cover off on the passenger side front of the engine. Mine was doing the same thing. Took me 2 months to figure out that my timing chain broke. Just got my JDM replacement yesterday. Good luck.

 

That's would explain the problems of having new **** and it still not even trying to start! So I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the meaning 🫣 but I do know that the timing anything involved with that is crazy expensive and I believe that if that is the issue then I have to take bumper belts valve cover and all that off to be able to see or even access this problem right? And then if it is the chain broken it's something that has to be done by a mechanic pretty much right? Like with a timing light and all or is it something I can do in driveway like all the other stuff I've done? Thanks in advance I really don't want to give up on the car I got it for a great price and even with everything I've done so far I'm not to to deep into it but I can't keep draining the bank for unknowns I guess is what it is but please if there are any videos or cheat sheets to even look for timing chain please if you can attach them for me id really appreciate it

 

when you get the timing chain kit it will have marks on it of where it will go into there is plenty of YouTube videos explaining this in depth just lookup vq35de non revup timing chain guide going through the same issue right now about to see if it is indeed the timing chain.

 

Chain tensioner is behind cover on the left side (passenger). Water pump is behind the one on the right (driver).

This is the JDM motor I'm putting in its place.

 

In my case the tensioner was all the way out. I opened the cover for the water pump to find the main chain hanging on the sprocket broken in 2. No compression. You can also do a compression check on your cylinders.

 

Okay when it isn't pouring rain this week I'll look into and is the average price for a kit about 500 parts wise? And I'm really hoping it's not the chain broke idk what would be easiest but also do you guys think because my driver cam position sensor was the updated metal sleeve and passenger was old plastic style right from rock auto so should I send the plastic one back and get another one sent just to check? What's your guys opinion on this one metal and one plastic and then crank sensor is plastic also

 

Plastic or metal sleeve makes no nevermind, as long as it's a Hitachi brand name from a reputable dealer or you walk on into a Nissan or Infiniti stealership and get them there. Metal sleeve is just an newer version. No difference in the two that I am aware of.

 

So got i was able to figure out the issues I ended up replacing a bunch of **** the used a different scan and because the battery was unhooked on and off while I was doing work over course of month the key lost connection with the nats system so story short a locksmith came out to my house and was able to use his datascan or consult and cut and programmed a new key right here and it wasn't cheap but it was the final answer so seriously guys if your getting cranking but no fuel or spark it's worth it to check into and save yourself a lot of anger and cluelessness. Lol on another note the car runs better then ever and I got rid of the original muffler and intake and small **** and it even sounds good now too. Hope maybe my trials can help someone in the future! Thanks for everyone who took the time to reach out when I needed a direction to look!

 

You would have had a solid red key securiity light on the combo meter when cranking the engine if the immobilizer was keeping the car from starting. Sorry I didn't make it clear when you should be looking for this. This would have been your clue to go straight for the NATS system.

There's a lock mode that you get into after too many tries to start a car with an immobilizer that is locking you out. But I think this lock mode prevents the starter from cranking at all so if your car always cranked but wouldn't start, it doesn't sound like you were in lock mode. If you're in lock mode, you can get out if you have a legitimate key that's recognized using the procedure described in the thread below. Glad you got your car fixed.

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...o-start-3.html

 

Is everything good now?