Car will crank but no start :(
No i tried 3 keys all programed to my car and still no go. I called my g friend about the security light and his does the same.
Yeah and it dose seem highly unlikey that alll the coils just suddenly went bad. Its just something thats not telling the sparks to fire upp
Yeah and it dose seem highly unlikey that alll the coils just suddenly went bad. Its just something thats not telling the sparks to fire upp
Same thing happened to me at 130K. It was something to do with the NATS system. Somehow the immobilizer system got into lock mode, don't know why. It seems kind of simple, but try this from the service manual.
2. ESCAPE FROM LOCK MODE
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Turn ignition switch ON with registered key. (Do not start engine.) Wait 5 seconds.
3. Return the key to OFF position. Wait 5 seconds.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice (total of three cycles).
5. Start the engine.
Does engine start?
Yes >> System is OK (Now system is escaped from “LOCK MODE”).
No >> GO TO 3.
2. ESCAPE FROM LOCK MODE
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Turn ignition switch ON with registered key. (Do not start engine.) Wait 5 seconds.
3. Return the key to OFF position. Wait 5 seconds.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice (total of three cycles).
5. Start the engine.
Does engine start?
Yes >> System is OK (Now system is escaped from “LOCK MODE”).
No >> GO TO 3.
^^^^ yepppp that was exactly the problem! I pulled the codes from a legit reader and it gave me p1610 and p1614 and now it turns on and runs new. I my original key though. The one i was using before was a spare. Since i got out of the lock mode can i still use that key or it would be best not to since it got me into the lock position in the first place.
I want to thank u all for helping much apprciated.
I want to thank u all for helping much apprciated.
ask ur freind whts the best way to fix this problem
Help me out? Crank no start , fuel pump works.
since its a coil on plug setup its not going to be a bad coil, it would be 6 bad coils and that's unlikely. So it usually breaks down to being a bad cam or crank position sensor if none of the coils are firing. But before we get carried away lets check a few things.
First lets see if you have any diagnostic trouble codes by using a cheap $20 code reader and seeing if you have any.
If there are no codes check for spark at a plug with a spark tester. One like this is difficult to get on the plugs since they are so far down but usually works well. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-In.../dp/B0002STSC6
If you have no spark the usual suspects on these motors is a bad crank or cam position sensor.
If you have spark then you probably don't have fuel which could be from a bad fuel pump, fuel pump relay or fuse, or simply your ECU isn't telling the injectors to cycle. But since you say you have fuel pressure I would lean towards no spark.
Simply telling us the car turns over but doesn't fire but you had fuel squirt out doesn't give us enough information unfortunately. You will have to do even more investigation on your own first. No reason to just throw parts at it.
Hope this helps get you started.
First lets see if you have any diagnostic trouble codes by using a cheap $20 code reader and seeing if you have any.
If there are no codes check for spark at a plug with a spark tester. One like this is difficult to get on the plugs since they are so far down but usually works well. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-In.../dp/B0002STSC6
If you have no spark the usual suspects on these motors is a bad crank or cam position sensor.
If you have spark then you probably don't have fuel which could be from a bad fuel pump, fuel pump relay or fuse, or simply your ECU isn't telling the injectors to cycle. But since you say you have fuel pressure I would lean towards no spark.
Simply telling us the car turns over but doesn't fire but you had fuel squirt out doesn't give us enough information unfortunately. You will have to do even more investigation on your own first. No reason to just throw parts at it.
Hope this helps get you started.
There is no factory fuel service port on these engines, you're pressing the purge relief for the EVAP line.
If you want a fuel service port you need to install an aftermarket one like this one.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rt-p-9160.html
Is the NATS security LED indicator solid red while cranking the engine? If so then the car doesn't recognize your key and will not deliver fuel/spark. After too many failed attempts it will trigger the IVIS interlock and the engine won't even crank, it will throw an OBD2 error code when this happens.
If you want a fuel service port you need to install an aftermarket one like this one.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rt-p-9160.html
Is the NATS security LED indicator solid red while cranking the engine? If so then the car doesn't recognize your key and will not deliver fuel/spark. After too many failed attempts it will trigger the IVIS interlock and the engine won't even crank, it will throw an OBD2 error code when this happens.
Help
hope you can help me on this one. I'm not getting fuel thru my fuel line from the front. I've replaced fuel pump and crankshaft sensor and still no fuel to the front. Even before the filter and when I push the pressure gauge on the line, nothing 🙁. You mentioned the ECU but not sure any help please. And there's gas in the car of course
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kenthung
G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07
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Jul 21, 2015 05:56 AM






