If your clutch pedal is sticking (not returning all the way back)

OR

If you have replaced your slave cylinder hose and/or slave cylinder and cannot bleed the system via conventional pump-and-bleed process


OR

If you believe you replaced the clutch fluid but it didn't help the pedal sticking


The problem is you actually did not replace all of the old fluid and did not fully bleed the system


The solution is 2 extra steps BEFORE conventional pump-and-bleed process


STEP 1 - Bleed the slave cylinder in the opposite direction
-Build some pressure in clutch pedal if possible (remember to wait 5 seconds every time you bring the clutch pedal all the way back up)
-Insert a wooden stick between clutch pedal and driver's seat so that the clutch pedal is fully depressed to the floor
-Get under the car
-Take any tool with a bulky metal handle such as a ratchet
-Firmly press the tool on the clutch fork with one hand, open the bleeder valve
-Keep pressing and push the slave cylinder rod all the way inside the slave cylinder
-You will see old fluid and trapped air will come out of the slave cylinder
-Repeat STEP 1 until slave cylinder doesn't have any old fluid left in it

STEP 2 - Overnight clutch depress
-Build some pressure in clutch pedal (remember to wait 5 seconds every time you bring the clutch pedal all the way back up)
-Insert a wooden stick between clutch pedal and driver's seat so that the clutch pedal is fully depressed to the floor
-Wait at least 8 hours
-Slowly release the clutch pedal (remember to wait 5 seconds after you bring the clutch pedal all the way back up)
-You now have a functional clutch pedal

STEP 3 (Important)
-Do conventional clutch pump-and-bleed with a helper or a wooden stick


Hope this helps someone
I've seen everything from adjusting the pedal out of spec to replacing perfectly working master and slave cylinders
The problem is AIR and OLD FLUID in the system with a reduced boiling point