Downshifting the G coupe 6mt at 70 mph
#16
Originally Posted by giddyup69
Gear change MPH (km/h)
1st to 2nd 8 (13)
2nd to 3rd 16 (26)
3rd to 4th 25 (40)
4th to 5th 28 (45)
5th to 6th 33 (53)
1st to 2nd 8 (13)
2nd to 3rd 16 (26)
3rd to 4th 25 (40)
4th to 5th 28 (45)
5th to 6th 33 (53)
my current speed determines how far i downshift when passing. if i'm behind someone on a 2-lane highway (usually ~60mph), i rev-match down to 3rd. if i'm going 70mph or more, i shift down to 4th and rev-match.
#17
#18
#19
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The owner's manual "shift points" are for optimal fuel economy, but that's not even correct. If you've ever tried putting your Coupe in 6th gear at 35mph, you'll feel that it is just SO wrong. The rpm's are so low, the engine barely has any power to accelerate, and it doesn't even feel right. For optimal fuel economy, you wanna keep your engine in the 2K-3K rpm range. The thing is that if you chill in 1,500rpm range and you accelerate, the engine has to work harder to make you accelerate, whereas you'd be in a lower, easier gear at that same speed which makes it easier for the engine to power the car. You can confirm this by using your fuel economy meter.
#20
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Originally Posted by MrElussive
The owner's manual "shift points" are for optimal fuel economy, but that's not even correct. If you've ever tried putting your Coupe in 6th gear at 35mph, you'll feel that it is just SO wrong. The rpm's are so low, the engine barely has any power to accelerate, and it doesn't even feel right. For optimal fuel economy, you wanna keep your engine in the 2K-3K rpm range. The thing is that if you chill in 1,500rpm range and you accelerate, the engine has to work harder to make you accelerate, whereas you'd be in a lower, easier gear at that same speed which makes it easier for the engine to power the car. You can confirm this by using your fuel economy meter.
edit: here's their quick acceleration numbers...
Gear change MPH (km/h)
1st to 2nd 15 (24)
2nd to 3rd 25 (40)
3rd to 4th 40 (64)
4th to 5th 45 (72)
5th to 6th 50 (80)
Last edited by giddyup69; 03-30-2005 at 02:12 PM.
#21
Originally Posted by MrElussive
The "letting the clutch out slow" technique in normal driving conditions does not cause any more wear-and-tear than rev-matching does (thanks to much stronger clutches nowadays).
My wife drags the clutch when she downshifts and it drives me nuts. I tell her to either rev match, or just don't downshift. Because of mostly conservative driving, and downshifting with rev matching, I didn't have to change the brake pads on my old Z-24 until 80k or so, and my brother, who now owns the car, has 142k on the original clutch. And to those who may argue that too much engine braking can lead to premature wear on the rings, all I can say is that the oil consumption on the car is only slightly less then when it was brand new in 1997.
Of course, YMMV (no pun intended). That car has a tremendous amount of highway miles on it (its on its 4th set of tires) and I tended to slow down early, since I did a lot of engine braking. Plus its had nothing but synth in the motor and gearbox since just after the break in period ended.
Also: Rev matching or not rev matching will have almost no effect on the synchros. What really hurts the synchros is using the wrong type of gear lube in the gearbox, or moving the shifter faster than the synchros can work...and its been my experience that in the G you pretty much have slam it through the gears (up or down) to to cause excess wear on the synchros. A slight (.5 second) pause in neutral is all you need to have both a quick shift, and minimize wear on the synchros.
So the lesson for the day, is that when done properly, downshifting with rev matching can save wear and tear on both the clutch and the brakes. When not done correctly, can induce extra wear in the clutch. When in doubt, don't downshift and use the brakes instead. Brake pads are soooo much cheaper than a clutch.
#22
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giddyup, I also keep my engine in the low 2K rpm range, but there are some weird speed limits where I just have to cruise at 2,600rpm for a little bit (as opposed to 1,900prm in the next higher gear). The quick acceleration advice is not inaccurate, Infinit just clearly does not want us to go fast!
mrmcderm, I have seen many people who downshift by letting the clutch out and not rev-matching. I have been told by several people that if you do that technique properly it does not really cause any or much additional wear on the clutch...it is just not a smooth technique at all and your passengers hate it, lol.
mrmcderm, I have seen many people who downshift by letting the clutch out and not rev-matching. I have been told by several people that if you do that technique properly it does not really cause any or much additional wear on the clutch...it is just not a smooth technique at all and your passengers hate it, lol.
#23
Originally Posted by MrElussive
mrmcderm, I have seen many people who downshift by letting the clutch out and not rev-matching. I have been told by several people that if you do that technique properly it does not really cause any or much additional wear on the clutch...it is just not a smooth technique at all and your passengers hate it, lol.
But here is what I'm saying: If you downshift, without rev matching you can do it two ways: You can let the clutch out slowly, which will cause it to drag and cause premature wear *or* you can let it out quickly (what I call 'chunking' because of the sound the gearbox usually makes when you do this), which will rapidly bring the engine speed up to match the road speed for the selected gear, but will cause you and your passenger's heads to bob forward and will add an additional 'shock' to the drivetrain.
Of course the effects in either case depend on how fast you are going with respect to what gear you are selecting (i.e. downshifting from 3rd to 2nd at 25mph is going to be less severe than downshifting from 6th to 4th at 60mph) and how quickly the clutch comes out. My previous statement listed draaaaging it out, as well as just 'dropping' it, but obviously there is a lot of gray area between. Done correctly, and with relatively minor gear change, (i.e. from 3rd to 2nd around a side street turn), you're going to minimize both the wear on the clutch, and the head bob.
I avoid the entire issue by almost always rev matching. No wear on the clutch (I let it out very quickly) and no head bob (I've gotten good at matching engine speed to road speed).
I also heel-toe brake when I can. I'm by no means an expert, but I've impressed my friends with my ability to brake, steer, and shift (at the same time) in city traffic, all without dragging the clutch or making their heads bob. Sometimes I really eat it though and either chunk shift really badly, or have my foot slip off the brake. That last one is a great way to get my buddies to soil their shorts.
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