so you're saying it would cost more to print the proper way for engine break-in in the manual?

i'd think it cost more to have to deal with all the improperly broken-in engines under warranty....

 

The owner's manual says DON'T MOD THIS CAR!!!!

 

I think anyone that reads your second paragraph before reading the first will weigh the value of your input and ignore the first paragraph ... and also ignore anything that follows.

 

roro,

Of course! You've got it right and he's either being obtuse or he is caught up in his own "cost benefit analysis." lol

Infiniti has everything to gain by getting the buying public to drive their car so as to minimize warranty expences. Any of us that have designed and maintained complex systems recognize that proper operation and properly made repairs generally result in reduced final costs and better reliability during the service life of the equipment.

 

Sure, Saltidawg, you're right, you win.

Whatever.

Go ahead and roll your eyes again, too. That makes it even better.


The point I am trying to make is that you shouldn't believe everything the manufacturer tells you. In this case, through research and experience, both my own, and others, I have determined that they are wrong in this case with regards to the break in period.

Again, though, if you would like to blindly accept what is in the owners manual, make sure you don't modify your car. And while you are at it, shift into 5th gear at 30 mph (recommended shifting point). Me, I am going to think for myself.

Dave

 

Break-in (and opinions are like a$$holes including me )

Follow the owners manual but deviate a little from it. Constantly vary your revs, don't sit at the same RPM too long, even on the highway (downshift, upshift, accelerate, decelerate). Every 200 miles go up 1k RPM's here and there. By the time you are at the closing end of the break in, you should be going to redline in one of the gears (change them up too), then letting the revs drop once you've done that. And never put your foot in the floor, as you go through the revs, do it slowly, don't ever floor it. If you keep the tach slowly moving around, don't go real hard (no real fast bursts of speed), and every couple of hundred of miles go up another 1k in RPM's you should be good to go. I'd get that clearbra put on as fast you can too....

 

Info about my installer is in my above post (post #2 of the thread). It was $650* (using Llumar film) for hood, bumper, lights, and mirrors. I did not need door edge strips because I am careful when opening my door.

*after getting another friend to get a clearbra installed too

 

I used Mariano too and he did a good job. He charged me 700. I got the edge of my doors done and the door handles too.

 

I used Wil (Sam) at Premier to do my clear bra. The clear bra looks perfect and the service was excellent. You couldn't go wrong with them.