i see that in vegas all the time...

(clapping hands together) 'and i'm out!!!'

 

And it obviously was..you did two things wrong.

1) you never run nitrous without a window switch, unless you really know what your doing (and in this cause it proved to be the latter) Its just plain stupid.

2) if you would have installed the inline filters before both of the solenoids, then you wouldnt have a problem with the solenoids getting stuck. Your supposed to check your solenoids every time you go out to the track. IF there stuck in the open or closed position and you didnt find that out for yourself, well thats what you call user error.


Ive been running nitrous on these VQ motors for so long, it isnt even funny. Before my G i had a 02 maxima that I ran the same setup for about 2 years. I never had an issue, cause i never took any shortcuts. Plus there are a couple things that you may want to consider BEFORE you take it to the dealer. Taking out EVERYTHING is a must. If you were too lazy to take out some switches, well thats your problem. Plus if you detonated because you activated it way too early, thats another silly mistake that could have been easily solved by using a window switch once again. All they did was take out the plugs and take a look at them. They see the abused plugs and become suspicious. Very simple solution, take out the plugs and replace them with some semi-used ones. No more suspicion.

So the moral of the story goes: Do things the right way, you reduce your chances of things going wrong by 100 folds. If something DOES happen, dont be brain dead and REMOVE everything that had to do with nitrous in the car. Change the plugs. No more worries.

my 2 cents


btw zex = gay; Nx = best

 

i thought the zex kit came with that little feature that didn't activate the n2o until full throttle position? just curious... not trying to start s***. what makes zex gay?

 

Actually NOS is the Original and Best. i've been running a 100 shot for over 2 Years now. No Problems Yeah our motors are strong BUT the Connecting Rods are the Weak link. Have you seen how thin they are? My Prelude rods were more stout than these.... I'd be leary of going more than 100 without building the Motor....... well whatever brand you choose Good Luck and have Fun with your road Kills.........Peace

 

Yeah I Fried my Stock clutch... Went with the Nismo one No Problems ever since, Only thing i miss is the softer pedal pressure but oh well goes with the territory.........

 

How long did your stock clutch last? Would be more street races, than drag launches..

 

did you change the clutch or the clutch and flywheel?

I need a better clutch, but I'm not willing to live with the so called "cememt mixer" effect of some of these flywheels. I really wish I could find someones car that has one of these "cement mixer" flywheels; I think I need to hear for myself.

 

Clutch and nismo pressure Plate. The Flywheel is stock just resurfaced. I don't really see the need for a Lightened flywheel. Yeah the Rpms climb really fast but they can drop just as fast also......

 

Audiblemayhem/Quadcam/EvilEagle/NismoV35-

Please educate me on nitrous. I am looking to go with a 75-100 NX wet shot. I want to buy the full kit- including window switch, purge kit, bottle warmer and all of the safety components needed to run nitrous carefully.

I looked on the NX website, and it just has a bunch of random kits. Which kit should I buy, and what else do I get, and where do I get it? Maybe you can share your full parts lists (and where to get the parts from)... What bolt-ons (if any) would help gain power in a nitrous setup? Do plugs/fuel pump or anything else need to be upgraded if only going 75-100 shot? Lastly, are any gauges necessary to monitor EGT, A/F, or the actual N2o?

Wait, more questions- what bottle size is recommended, and how long does it last (I know it's based on how much you drive/spray, but an estimate would help)?

Sorry for all the questions, but I am looking to purchase this setup ASAP, and want to do it correctly. I have been reading up on it @ my350z, but haven't grasped it fully yet. I think (what I want) is to have the window switch run the N20 from 3500-6500 RPM at WOT (without me having to push any special buttons), this is possible, right?

Also, how much am I looking at for all the parts? How about install, I heard it's about 5 hours...

Thanks guys!

 

^ any answers to the above questions?

 

The only way to determine if you ran nitrous is by looking for gauges/switches or drilled holes for hoses or bottle mount.

There is no such thing is residue in the cylinders from the no2, anything in the nitrous bottle is in the atmosphere already.

The dealer bluffed by saying you would have to pay for the tear down if they found eveidence of spraying. If anything they would find evidence of "abuse" which can not be proven to be from nitrous, could be from just running the car hard.

That is unless these nitrous companies are lacing their tanks with traces of rare elements in a conspiracy to protect dealers from warranty abuse.

 

Ok, heres is MY setup along with all the parts I currently am using along with where i got them from. In my opinion these are the best parts you can have to make not only a complete but a safe and reliable setup. I consider this the "RIGHT WAY" to do it.

HARDWARE

1) nitrous express kit #20923-10 ($420)
It doesnt REALLY matter what kit you get since most of the kits are the same just with a slight variance with fittings and what not. The only guidelines that you need to watch for are that it's for an import, with a 10lb bottle. The rest you dont have to worry about and I will show you why in a bit. Your cheapest bet is to pick up a kit on ebay. I would not suggest buying a used one. I picked up my new kit for 420 shipped, so just look around. Or you can pick one up direct from NX for about $620 shipped.

2) fuel line adapter ($55)
You will need need this so you won't have to splice into the factory fuel line. This will save you from buying a new one "just in case" something happens and you need to return the vehicle to the dealership. If they see a spliced fuel line, they will most likely give you a hard time about it and in some cases void your warentee. You can pick this up at PTP motorsports ( http://www.ptpmotorsports.com/fuliad.html )

3) 2- 5 foot -4an steel braided lines ($35)
This is optional depending on where exactly you mount your solenoids. IT would be wise to mount them somewhere close to the intake, which is where the nozzle will be. I mounted mine by the left strut tower behind the little wall. You can find these all over ebay in various sizes. You probaby want to plan ahead of time and measure exactly to see what size lines you'll need.

ACCESSORIES- You will soon come to find that most of the cost of the system actually comes from the accessories and not the original kit itself. Most of these are only accessories to the kit and are not exactly needed, but can make life easier and help out a tad.

1) Bottle opener ($125)
Its exactly what it sounds like, a bottle opener. This will prevent you from having to go to your trunk everytime to open the bottle. I personally hid my bottle in a compartment i made in the trunk. So this benefitted me greatly. Its probably something that you should get just to make life easier. Search on ebay for one of these. Make sure its a NX opener, those are the best.

2) Bottle heater ($125)
This is a rubbery material that gets strapped around your bottle to heat it up and increase the pressure in the bottle, which can actually affect performance quite a bit, especially if you live in colder regions where your bottle pressure will be too low and you will yield much less results. They come with an automatic turn off sensor. When it reaches a certain temp, it turns itself off. A great investment if you ask me.

3) Purge ($100)
This is a second nitrous solenoid that releases nitrous out of the system in efforts to remove the gaseos n20 and fill the lines up with the liquid portion (which is what you want). Now i cant exactly comment on how effective this is simply because i did not see much of a difference myself. Most people install this just for the looks ( nitrous spraying out of the hood, etc,). Not something you really need.

4) Fuel Pressure Safty Switch ($45)
This is a switch that gets tapped into the fuel lines, and when too much pressure drops, the signal is then cut and disactivated the system. This is to prevent grossly lean situations which WILL cause detonation. Very good safty device for the money. Devenatly something you need.

5) Blow down tube and fitting ($50)
This is a safty tube that gets installed on your bottle in the case of nitrous discharge from the blow off cap. This will route the discharge OUT of the cabin. Most people have this on because its a requirement for some, not all, tracks. Find your local track and see if its something that is required, and make a decision based up that.

6) Slicks/drag radials ($300)
You will soon find that traction will now become an issue. On stock tires it is easy to spin both first, second, AND third. Also pretty dangerous at high speeds if you dont know what your doing. This is where drag radial/slicks come into play. What you want to do is find the smallest size rims that will clear your calipers. 16" rims should do the trick. The smaller, the lighter, the better. What seems to work great are the 300zx wheels. They are a 16x8 design which can be picked up fairly cheap. Find yourself a set of drag radials. They can very in price quite a bit depending on if you get them new or used. Some people use them a couple of times,throw them in the garage and never use them again. That would be a good situation for you to come up on. I see ALOT of these types of situations on my350Z.com . You might wanna check there to see what kinda luck you can get.

***NOTE*** There is a kit by NX called the GEN X2 kit which has all of the above minus the bottle opener. It also comes with a guage that get mounted to the bottle. This is a good idea if you are planning to get most of the above. You can pick this up at http://turboimport.com/catalog/nitrousexpress.htm for $365 shipped OR if you do not want the purge, you can get the GEN-X package for $295 shipped.


ELECTRONICS- These are the various electronic deviced that you will need to not only run, but also monitor your system. Very important.

1) Adjustable Window Switch ($49)
Probably one of the most important and best safty devices you can have. Many people swear that you dont need them; (these are the people that cry about their blown motor shortly after). Its a component that activates the nitrous only if the pre-selected RPM paramaters have been met. With the adjustable unit, you can change the ranges to whatever you want. The range that i currently use is 3000 - 6750. I can adjust in 250 rpm increments on both the high and low. Best place to get this is at www.bakerelectronix.com . Make sure to get the adjustable one and for the the 8 preset increments choose 3000,3250,3500,3750, 6250,6500,6750,& 7000.

2) TPS (throttle position sensor) ($39)
Since out cars do not have a cable linked throttle, we have to go about the factory TPS sensor to activate the system. Well if theres no throttle cable you cant use the switch NX includes in the kit. You need a sensor that will read the factory TPS when at full throttle. This sensor will then activate the nitrous system only if the parameters have been reached, in this case WOT(wide open throttle). You can also pick up this unit ate www.bakerelectronix.com. Getting the adjustable unit is an option, its $10 more. You dont exactly need the adjustable unit, but its good to have. This sensor is a must in the system and adds even less room for error.

3) gauges (nitrous, fuel pressure, and an optional air fuel gauge)
You need to monitor your system to see what its doing at all times. One way to do this is via gauges. You will need a nitrous gauge, which tells your the bottle pressure from inside the cabin, so you dont have to go run to the trunk to read it; you will need a fuel pressure gauge, this is to monitor fuel pressure which is very critical in nitrous systems; and the third gauge is honestly just to fill up the third hole in the gage pod(what holds the 3 gauges in the cabin). Its not exactly accurate and isnt made for tuning, but what it can do is easily and quickly notify you of dangerously lean situations. Now when it comes to the nitrous and fuel gauge, they make them 2 different ways. One is a regular unit, and the other is called a "full-sweep". The full sweeps are much more costly but what they do is allow you NOT to run either the nitrous or fuel line into the cabin. Its an electronic gauge that has a sending unit which send the data to the gauge. I reccommend spending the extra money and getting these units so you dont have to have fuel and nitrous a couple of feet away from your face Look all over ebay. The full sweep Autometer nitrous gauge should run around ($200), Full sweep Autometer Fuel gauge should be just a tad bit cheaper, and the full sweep air/fuel gauge can be picked up fairly cheap (~$50).

4) gauge pod ($55)
This is to hold the three gauges inside the cabin. There are not many companies that have a complete replacement pillar. The one i got was through intense power for $55 dollars http://store.yahoo.com/ntnsracing/infuatrpodg3.html . Nice and clean looking in our cars.



Well thats the majority of what goes on in a top notch nitrous system for these cars. If you price that out, it comes out to about $1750. not too shabby for something that can be done in less than a day and have the same potential as any turbo/supercharged system. Contrary to what many people say, who most of have no experience in the matter, running nitrous oxide CAN be very safe and if done safly and correctly will not affect reliability of the motor. Sure you may expect less life time from the motor, but that comes with ANY from of FI. This system has 3 different safety devices to ensure the nitrous will only be engages in optimal conditions.

Any more questions, feel free to ask. Happy Spraying

 

Thanks evileagle- that is a ton of information.

I will read through it 10 times before I ask any questions.

 

Great writeup, $1750 sure is alot less than the average installed turbo or s/c
($6000-10,000)

 

I have a stage 2 stillen, and I think this kit is a little to safe. Could you put a 35 50, or even a 75 shot safley on a s/c setup?