Mustang Dyno-Bone Stock-2005 6MT
#31
Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
What exactly do you mean by "log vehicle speed versus time"? Should a run be performed in a single gear? If so, which gear? If not, then how does one account for the elapsed time in shifting gears? Is there a way to log when the car is fully in gear, or not?
Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
Also, just how accurate is this means of measurement?
Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
Do you have a weather station recording wind direction and speed?
Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
How would a tail wind or head wind affect the measurement?
Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
How would tire pressure affect measurement?
Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
Or what about wheel size and weight, in combination with tire size and weight?
Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
If one increases the diameter and weight of his drive wheels, by say 50%, would this not lengthen the time required to cover the same distance? But technically, the amount of power the car is putting "to the wheels" would be unchanged, correct?
Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
My point here is that even your *suggestion* is merely an approximation, just like using any type of dyno. Like you said, your way of doing things requires "special tools (like Cipher)". Hitting a dyno for 50 some-odd bucks, for an approximation, doesn't seem too bad to me.
I'm sure that if the thread-starter road-dyno'd his car in 3rd gear he'd be seeing about 215 real-world horsepower to the wheels.
IMO, dyno numbers should be used for relative calculations only, and they should be scaled to the crank numbers for the car from a stock dyno before mods (this accounts for the dyno being off by a proportional factor).
And IMO, if you want to know what your car is "really" putting out at the wheels on the street (at least for those exact conditions at that instant), there is only one way to do it: measure it on the street.
#32
I don't think we're at odds here, but I do think we're interested in different goals. The only reason I would ever want to determine how much power I'm putting out is to measure the effectiveness of a mod(that is, if I have a baseline and if the conditions are controlled *enough* for my comfort). However, that goal is itself only transient; I am actually only interested in how a mod will affect my 1/4 time/trap, or how it will affect drivability.
Horsepower figures, IMO are largely irrelevant. I'm concerned about trap speed. I understand not every one tracks his car, but I do, with enthusiasm. Ultimately, I will measure how my car is performing by the trap speed. Or, in the case of my daily commute, if the function of driving my car is more enjoyable.
But I must admit, I really am a geek, and a numbers geek at that. If I had the UpRev, and the similar modelling software, I would probably do what you are doing now. In fact, whenever I get a dyno done, I spend hours just playing around with winpep look at the data in every way imaginable.
Horsepower figures, IMO are largely irrelevant. I'm concerned about trap speed. I understand not every one tracks his car, but I do, with enthusiasm. Ultimately, I will measure how my car is performing by the trap speed. Or, in the case of my daily commute, if the function of driving my car is more enjoyable.
But I must admit, I really am a geek, and a numbers geek at that. If I had the UpRev, and the similar modelling software, I would probably do what you are doing now. In fact, whenever I get a dyno done, I spend hours just playing around with winpep look at the data in every way imaginable.
#34
#35
Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
I don't think we're at odds here, but I do think we're interested in different goals. The only reason I would ever want to determine how much power I'm putting out is to measure the effectiveness of a mod(that is, if I have a baseline and if the conditions are controlled *enough* for my comfort). However, that goal is itself only transient; I am actually only interested in how a mod will affect my 1/4 time/trap, or how it will affect drivability.
Horsepower figures, IMO are largely irrelevant. I'm concerned about trap speed. I understand not every one tracks his car, but I do, with enthusiasm. Ultimately, I will measure how my car is performing by the trap speed. Or, in the case of my daily commute, if the function of driving my car is more enjoyable.
But I must admit, I really am a geek, and a numbers geek at that. If I had the UpRev, and the similar modelling software, I would probably do what you are doing now. In fact, whenever I get a dyno done, I spend hours just playing around with winpep look at the data in every way imaginable.
Horsepower figures, IMO are largely irrelevant. I'm concerned about trap speed. I understand not every one tracks his car, but I do, with enthusiasm. Ultimately, I will measure how my car is performing by the trap speed. Or, in the case of my daily commute, if the function of driving my car is more enjoyable.
But I must admit, I really am a geek, and a numbers geek at that. If I had the UpRev, and the similar modelling software, I would probably do what you are doing now. In fact, whenever I get a dyno done, I spend hours just playing around with winpep look at the data in every way imaginable.
#36
Remember a Dyno is a tuning tool, you can set a dyno up to give you any numbers you want..especially a mustang Dyno. There are all kinds of calibration settings to these things. I dont pay attention to dyno number that much cause so much can factor into them, like a I said its a GREAT GREAT tuning tool.
The best way to get true #'s on what your car is putting down is take it down the local dragway once or twice usually cost 15 bucks... dont launch the car hard to make sure u dont break anything (very sticky starting line, IRS tends to really hop, remember u r not going for time, but MPH so u dont want to spin at all) These cars stock once u get rolling u can put it to the floor the rest of the way. I suggest power shifting to get the most MPH.
Most dragways have a scale as well, if not take your car through a truck stop and have it weighed with you in it, use this formula...
hp = weight * (speed / 234)3 For you non math majors
lets say my car weighs 3400 pounds with me in it.. and i run 98 MPH in the 1/4 well take 98/234 that equals .419 rounded off... take that to the 3rd power (times itself 3 times .419x.419.x419= 0.074) rememer dont x's it by 3 or u will come out wrong. now take your weight 3400x.0.074 and the number you get is the power your putting to the ground on that run. which i get 250 RWHP. Try to note the weather conditions, note if you get a head wind or a tail wind, get the DA (Density Altitude) ask any major drag racer at the track and he can tell you. and you can correct to SAE HP.. (seal level)
Hope this might help some of you guys out.
The best way to get true #'s on what your car is putting down is take it down the local dragway once or twice usually cost 15 bucks... dont launch the car hard to make sure u dont break anything (very sticky starting line, IRS tends to really hop, remember u r not going for time, but MPH so u dont want to spin at all) These cars stock once u get rolling u can put it to the floor the rest of the way. I suggest power shifting to get the most MPH.
Most dragways have a scale as well, if not take your car through a truck stop and have it weighed with you in it, use this formula...
hp = weight * (speed / 234)3 For you non math majors
lets say my car weighs 3400 pounds with me in it.. and i run 98 MPH in the 1/4 well take 98/234 that equals .419 rounded off... take that to the 3rd power (times itself 3 times .419x.419.x419= 0.074) rememer dont x's it by 3 or u will come out wrong. now take your weight 3400x.0.074 and the number you get is the power your putting to the ground on that run. which i get 250 RWHP. Try to note the weather conditions, note if you get a head wind or a tail wind, get the DA (Density Altitude) ask any major drag racer at the track and he can tell you. and you can correct to SAE HP.. (seal level)
Hope this might help some of you guys out.
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