Dyno'd my 06 Coupe
#46
After reading various articles in numerous publications on dynos and horsepower, I feel I should put forth a few observations:
Chassis dynos are great tuning aids but they only give a approximation of power output as some of the important variables are not accurately controlled. Certain magazines seem to think that results obtained from chassis dynos are the gospel. They are not. In one recent independent test, hp figures varied by 11% simply by doing the runs in different gears and in another test, results varied by almost 4 % by doing the runs with a different wheel/tire combination. Tire alignment has been shown to affect results up to 3% as well. Note that Engine hp DID NOT change here yet the dyno recorded an increase in hp at the wheels. A change in wheels/tires also does not affect true, wheel hp either, only the rate of change on the rollers and the vehicle acceleration on the road. One can only conclude that inaccurate moments of inertia and correction factors are being used....
G35_TX - Good info. Thanks for sharing.
Chassis dynos are great tuning aids but they only give a approximation of power output as some of the important variables are not accurately controlled. Certain magazines seem to think that results obtained from chassis dynos are the gospel. They are not. In one recent independent test, hp figures varied by 11% simply by doing the runs in different gears and in another test, results varied by almost 4 % by doing the runs with a different wheel/tire combination. Tire alignment has been shown to affect results up to 3% as well. Note that Engine hp DID NOT change here yet the dyno recorded an increase in hp at the wheels. A change in wheels/tires also does not affect true, wheel hp either, only the rate of change on the rollers and the vehicle acceleration on the road. One can only conclude that inaccurate moments of inertia and correction factors are being used....
G35_TX - Good info. Thanks for sharing.
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Nice cut and paste from some previous discussion that is mostly irrelevant to what is being discussed: why the 1:1 gear is chosen. If you'd like to talk about any specific of the points in that text, I'm happy to discuss it. Rather than spew a load of info, you should take the time to focus your argument. I'll sum up your argument for you.
All you had to say was that there is no main gear set for the 1:1 ratio, and therefore no main set losses, done! I admittedly was not familiar with this and just assumed there was a 1:1 main set just like my last car (which was FWD).
So clearly running in the 1:1 gear minimizes main set losses. Do those losses outweigh other losses (inertial, rolling resistance, other geartrain) that decrease or increase in the next lower or higher gears? That's not clear, but in this case I agree that dyoing in the straight-through gear would be best from a standards point of view!
I argue to get to the bottom of something. I'll gladly admit when I'm wrong, just state your argument!
And getting back to the very original argument, I never claimed that ANY dyno was gospel in any sense, only that a Dynojet is completely unrealistic.
All you had to say was that there is no main gear set for the 1:1 ratio, and therefore no main set losses, done! I admittedly was not familiar with this and just assumed there was a 1:1 main set just like my last car (which was FWD).
So clearly running in the 1:1 gear minimizes main set losses. Do those losses outweigh other losses (inertial, rolling resistance, other geartrain) that decrease or increase in the next lower or higher gears? That's not clear, but in this case I agree that dyoing in the straight-through gear would be best from a standards point of view!
I argue to get to the bottom of something. I'll gladly admit when I'm wrong, just state your argument!
And getting back to the very original argument, I never claimed that ANY dyno was gospel in any sense, only that a Dynojet is completely unrealistic.
Last edited by MechEE; 03-05-2006 at 06:41 PM.
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Originally Posted by FAST1
A change in wheels/tires also does not affect true, wheel hp either, only the rate of change on the rollers and the vehicle acceleration on the road. One can only conclude that inaccurate moments of inertia and correction factors are being used....
Personally, when I think about "true wheel hp", I think about the power that is actually accelerating my vehicle on the street, or the physical net force realized at the tire contact patch pushing agains the road. In this case, all of the driveline losses as well as inertias of all rotating components are parasitics and directly impact this relatively measurable force at the ground. The point is obviously to construct a repeatable experiment (same dyno, same run on the street, same gear, etc) so you can get true relative gains.
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You have no basis for a arguement. You are wrong and get over it.
I gave you detail info on how the Dyno works and how the drivetrain works. But you obviously want to ignore it.
Obviously you didn't read what I posted. So I am not wasting my time anymore with you. In my book you have no clue what your talking about.
I gave you detail info on how the Dyno works and how the drivetrain works. But you obviously want to ignore it.
Obviously you didn't read what I posted. So I am not wasting my time anymore with you. In my book you have no clue what your talking about.
Originally Posted by MechEE
Nice cut and paste from some previous discussion that is mostly irrelevant to what is being discussed: why the 1:1 gear is chosen. If you'd like to talk about any specific of the points in that text, I'm happy to discuss it. Rather than spew a load of info, you should take the time to focus your argument. I'll sum up your argument for you.
All you had to say was that there is no main gear set for the 1:1 ratio, and therefore no main set losses, done! I admittedly was not familiar with this and just assumed there was a 1:1 main set just like my last car (which was FWD).
So clearly running in the 1:1 gear minimizes main set losses. Do those losses outweigh other losses (inertial, rolling resistance, other geartrain) that decrease or increase in the next lower or higher gears? That's not clear, but in this case I agree that dyoing in the straight-through gear would be best from a standards point of view!
I argue to get to the bottom of something. I'll gladly admit when I'm wrong, just state your argument!
And getting back to the very original argument, I never claimed that ANY dyno was gospel in any sense, only that a Dynojet is completely unrealistic.
All you had to say was that there is no main gear set for the 1:1 ratio, and therefore no main set losses, done! I admittedly was not familiar with this and just assumed there was a 1:1 main set just like my last car (which was FWD).
So clearly running in the 1:1 gear minimizes main set losses. Do those losses outweigh other losses (inertial, rolling resistance, other geartrain) that decrease or increase in the next lower or higher gears? That's not clear, but in this case I agree that dyoing in the straight-through gear would be best from a standards point of view!
I argue to get to the bottom of something. I'll gladly admit when I'm wrong, just state your argument!
And getting back to the very original argument, I never claimed that ANY dyno was gospel in any sense, only that a Dynojet is completely unrealistic.
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Originally Posted by G35_TX
You have no basis for a arguement. You are wrong and get over it.
I gave you detail info on how the Dyno works and how the drivetrain works. But you obviously want to ignore it.
Obviously you didn't read what I posted. So I am not wasting my time anymore with you. In my book you have no clue what your talking about.
I gave you detail info on how the Dyno works and how the drivetrain works. But you obviously want to ignore it.
Obviously you didn't read what I posted. So I am not wasting my time anymore with you. In my book you have no clue what your talking about.
Originally Posted by G35_TX
You are attacking a well respected member of this forum. And someone who has more knowledge on this subject and many others than you.
If you truly understand the text here that you've pasted (not that I think it is gospel, the hard-coded percentages are definitely questionable), you would clearly understand my argument as to why the 1:1 gear will not necessarily give you the best power numbers on transient measurement systems (on the street, inertial dyno, etc). Steady-state zero-acceleration measurements would obviously be different (where inertial losses drop out) and 1:1 would then likely always be the ideal (if rolling resistances weren't too large). If you ever have any technical questions about anything in that text or need anything explained, feel free to hit me up. No hard feelings.
Last edited by MechEE; 03-05-2006 at 08:19 PM.
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Originally Posted by andy2434
^^^ Cute, but I am missing your point.
Last edited by MechEE; 03-06-2006 at 03:15 AM.
#54
I have a question. This is a tangent, and i'm not taking sides in the debate.
Ok, here goes - everyon egrees that for tuning purposes, it doesn't matter what your dyno # is, its the change in that number from mod to mod that will matter.
The logic is: if dynojet #1 gives you 230 and dynojet #2 gives you 240, and you add a mod then dynojet 1 will go to 240 and dynojet 2 will go to 250. I can go along with this - you get 10 dynojet hp.
But my question is this:
if dynojet 1 gives you 230 and mustang dyno 1 gives you 210, then you do the mod, and dynojet 1 goes to 240, will mustang dyno 1 give you 220?
I don't know the answer, but logic suggests that it won't. It takes more "real" power to get 1 mustang dyno HP, as compared to 1 dynojet hp. Thus, shouldn't a change of 10 dynojet HP yield a change of less than 10 hp on a mustang dyno???
My point is, that people think that it doesn't matter what dyno you use to tune. That you can just look at the increase. But i think on a mustang the increase of any given mod would be smaller than the same mod would yield on a dynojet. Thus, this creates incentive for tuners to use dyno's that yield the highest numbers.
Now i'm not saying which one is "real" and which one is "better" i'm just saying that even if you only look at the margin, the delta, the change in HP, different dynos will still yield different results. By implication, just because a mod says it will increase power by 20hp on a dynapack, the mod will yield less hp on a dynojet and even less on a mustang dyno. How much less, i don't know. But it will be less.
Someone tell me if i'm totally off base or if my logic works?
Ok, here goes - everyon egrees that for tuning purposes, it doesn't matter what your dyno # is, its the change in that number from mod to mod that will matter.
The logic is: if dynojet #1 gives you 230 and dynojet #2 gives you 240, and you add a mod then dynojet 1 will go to 240 and dynojet 2 will go to 250. I can go along with this - you get 10 dynojet hp.
But my question is this:
if dynojet 1 gives you 230 and mustang dyno 1 gives you 210, then you do the mod, and dynojet 1 goes to 240, will mustang dyno 1 give you 220?
I don't know the answer, but logic suggests that it won't. It takes more "real" power to get 1 mustang dyno HP, as compared to 1 dynojet hp. Thus, shouldn't a change of 10 dynojet HP yield a change of less than 10 hp on a mustang dyno???
My point is, that people think that it doesn't matter what dyno you use to tune. That you can just look at the increase. But i think on a mustang the increase of any given mod would be smaller than the same mod would yield on a dynojet. Thus, this creates incentive for tuners to use dyno's that yield the highest numbers.
Now i'm not saying which one is "real" and which one is "better" i'm just saying that even if you only look at the margin, the delta, the change in HP, different dynos will still yield different results. By implication, just because a mod says it will increase power by 20hp on a dynapack, the mod will yield less hp on a dynojet and even less on a mustang dyno. How much less, i don't know. But it will be less.
Someone tell me if i'm totally off base or if my logic works?
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Originally Posted by mistermojorizin
I have a question. This is a tangent, and i'm not taking sides in the debate.
Ok, here goes - everyon egrees that for tuning purposes, it doesn't matter what your dyno # is, its the change in that number from mod to mod that will matter.
The logic is: if dynojet #1 gives you 230 and dynojet #2 gives you 240, and you add a mod then dynojet 1 will go to 240 and dynojet 2 will go to 250. I can go along with this - you get 10 dynojet hp.
But my question is this:
if dynojet 1 gives you 230 and mustang dyno 1 gives you 210, then you do the mod, and dynojet 1 goes to 240, will mustang dyno 1 give you 220?
I don't know the answer, but logic suggests that it won't. It takes more "real" power to get 1 mustang dyno HP, as compared to 1 dynojet hp. Thus, shouldn't a change of 10 dynojet HP yield a change of less than 10 hp on a mustang dyno???
My point is, that people think that it doesn't matter what dyno you use to tune. That you can just look at the increase. But i think on a mustang the increase of any given mod would be smaller than the same mod would yield on a dynojet. Thus, this creates incentive for tuners to use dyno's that yield the highest numbers.
Now i'm not saying which one is "real" and which one is "better" i'm just saying that even if you only look at the margin, the delta, the change in HP, different dynos will still yield different results. By implication, just because a mod says it will increase power by 20hp on a dynapack, the mod will yield less hp on a dynojet and even less on a mustang dyno. How much less, i don't know. But it will be less.
Someone tell me if i'm totally off base or if my logic works?
Ok, here goes - everyon egrees that for tuning purposes, it doesn't matter what your dyno # is, its the change in that number from mod to mod that will matter.
The logic is: if dynojet #1 gives you 230 and dynojet #2 gives you 240, and you add a mod then dynojet 1 will go to 240 and dynojet 2 will go to 250. I can go along with this - you get 10 dynojet hp.
But my question is this:
if dynojet 1 gives you 230 and mustang dyno 1 gives you 210, then you do the mod, and dynojet 1 goes to 240, will mustang dyno 1 give you 220?
I don't know the answer, but logic suggests that it won't. It takes more "real" power to get 1 mustang dyno HP, as compared to 1 dynojet hp. Thus, shouldn't a change of 10 dynojet HP yield a change of less than 10 hp on a mustang dyno???
My point is, that people think that it doesn't matter what dyno you use to tune. That you can just look at the increase. But i think on a mustang the increase of any given mod would be smaller than the same mod would yield on a dynojet. Thus, this creates incentive for tuners to use dyno's that yield the highest numbers.
Now i'm not saying which one is "real" and which one is "better" i'm just saying that even if you only look at the margin, the delta, the change in HP, different dynos will still yield different results. By implication, just because a mod says it will increase power by 20hp on a dynapack, the mod will yield less hp on a dynojet and even less on a mustang dyno. How much less, i don't know. But it will be less.
Someone tell me if i'm totally off base or if my logic works?
A more scientific way, in my opinion, would be to measure air massflow rates instead. Do a baseline run on the same stretch of road (or on the dyno) in a set gear while measuring the MAF sensor and assume it correlates with the given crank hp numbers. You can then measure changes in air massflow for various mods as potential power increases (assuming reasonable tuning). If I measure a 5% increase in air massflow from an aftermarket exhaust, I know it's doing something. If I then slap the car on the dyno and actually lose power, I know that it is a tuning issue, because the potential for power is there in the added airflow. I took MAF sensor data on the dyno for this very reason.
Here's my bone-stock run on the Mustang, with corresponding MAF data. Notice anything about the relation between the HP and MAF curves?
Last edited by MechEE; 03-06-2006 at 07:22 AM.
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Mistermojorizin
I don't know what MechEE wrote because I don't give a F, but you're right. Some shady manufactures do what ever it is to get big #'s. Knock off company's are really bad for this. Companies like "To......" Nah never mind, will do anything for a sale. Some do it in perfect conditions which we never have in the real world, but yeah, their product did do it.
The point you made about the difference of the "changed #" between the two dyno's is true but to what extent? You dyno'd your car and came up with 240HP and if you had difference of say 20HP between the two, you're talking 12% basically. Now you to add a Mod that's supposed to yield 12 to 14 hp, you now could get a 1.44 to 1.68% difference. So if your buddy got 14HP and you got say 12.5HP, I don't think you'd be too upset would you? Then you would say..... "Yeah but we didn't dyno it on the same dyno".
And to you MechEE............... You have made go back 25 yr's and I'm a teenager again. I could argue all day and throw insults back and forth with you. I come here because I bought a new car and want to find out anything I can about it. I have been modding cars for a long time but this is my second *** car and I bought my first in 02 so I have a lot to learn. I don't come here to argue, I come here for enjoyment. You can certainly continue to slag me if you wish. That's OK, I don't mind. If someone says something that is incorrect, yeah we should correct them in a NICE way. Most intelligent people will take note and try to find out the real truth on their own. But you have to keep in mind the purpose of the thread. My was to try to make a controlled environment and post to the community the numbers I got. That was it. I could say F it, and show people crap!!! I just didn't like what I saw on the board. Too many people saying "Yeah I can feel it" How much is "it"? Was it worth it to pay X dollars for ?hp difference. That was all. So if our paths cross again I will say my point then finish with the thread. You can say what ever you wish. I'M DONE!!!!!!
BTW: I have a great sex life and don't need to "Ruboneoff".
I don't know what MechEE wrote because I don't give a F, but you're right. Some shady manufactures do what ever it is to get big #'s. Knock off company's are really bad for this. Companies like "To......" Nah never mind, will do anything for a sale. Some do it in perfect conditions which we never have in the real world, but yeah, their product did do it.
The point you made about the difference of the "changed #" between the two dyno's is true but to what extent? You dyno'd your car and came up with 240HP and if you had difference of say 20HP between the two, you're talking 12% basically. Now you to add a Mod that's supposed to yield 12 to 14 hp, you now could get a 1.44 to 1.68% difference. So if your buddy got 14HP and you got say 12.5HP, I don't think you'd be too upset would you? Then you would say..... "Yeah but we didn't dyno it on the same dyno".
And to you MechEE............... You have made go back 25 yr's and I'm a teenager again. I could argue all day and throw insults back and forth with you. I come here because I bought a new car and want to find out anything I can about it. I have been modding cars for a long time but this is my second *** car and I bought my first in 02 so I have a lot to learn. I don't come here to argue, I come here for enjoyment. You can certainly continue to slag me if you wish. That's OK, I don't mind. If someone says something that is incorrect, yeah we should correct them in a NICE way. Most intelligent people will take note and try to find out the real truth on their own. But you have to keep in mind the purpose of the thread. My was to try to make a controlled environment and post to the community the numbers I got. That was it. I could say F it, and show people crap!!! I just didn't like what I saw on the board. Too many people saying "Yeah I can feel it" How much is "it"? Was it worth it to pay X dollars for ?hp difference. That was all. So if our paths cross again I will say my point then finish with the thread. You can say what ever you wish. I'M DONE!!!!!!
BTW: I have a great sex life and don't need to "Ruboneoff".
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