WTF?
I've been driving manuals since 1978 and I do not drive automatic unless forced to; I have been able to get at least 75K out of every clutch and have NEVER broken anything! I sold my Supra with 240K miles on the 3rd clutch and I shifted that the same way... Don't come at me like that when I've got all these years expirience doing this and doing it hard!!! I've got 47K on this original G clutch now.
Now tires; thats a different story

You do not know what your talking about!

 

If you rev match from gear to gear and your not skipping gears or dowshifting and skipping gears thats just stooooooopid!

There is absolutely no need for this and I have been laughing my as* off at all of this rev-matching stuff!
ROFLOL

 

I think for most drivers who've been driving cars with manual transmissions for as long as I have (i.e., for decades) rev matching, at least when not accelerating "spiritedly," is such a natural activity that they are unaware they are even doing it or that there is any other way to drive a car with a stick. For me, driving this way so as to limit the amount of shock transmitted to the drivetrain -- and to my passenger(s) -- is completely automatic. However, it's the last thing on my mind when I'm trying to accelerate as fast as possible. That's when I count on the stoutness of the drivetrain to withstand a little speed-shifting abuse.

As far as downshifting goes, I almost always double clutch to spare the syncros, except if I'm only crawling or I am in a panic situation and need a lower gear right now. The rev matching that occurs automatically as a consequence of double clutching is a freebie.

 

Well you are sort of right.. I don't know what YOU are doing, but it's not what you are describing. I'm guessing you are doing some stuff naturally without thinking about it. I'm guessing you are getting on the gas between your gears, thereby you are doing this "automatically"

not that what you are doing is necessarily wrong... but what you are describing definitely is wrong -- clutch in, let revs drop however they want, shove 3rd gear in, clutch out, and then punch it. i seriously doubt you are doing that... perhaps you should try doing exactly what you described ?

if i misunderstood you, my bad.

 

I didn't really describe what I'm doing, but its easy;
I bring the RPM's up to wherever I want to shift (that depends on what type of driving I'm doing at that time), then I just press the clutch very far (this also is variable, the G's feel different each year model), and then I move the shifter into the next gear (this is done very fast) and let the clutch out fast...
Downshifting is the same.

Now this is a different scenario;
I'm cruising about 45-65 in 6th gear and I want to pass or really accellerate... I do this;
Depress the clutch quickly, real far down, right at the same time I give gas to get about 2K-2.5K higher revs, and then throw the shifter into 3rd. gear (skipping 4th & 5th.) and then I am gone and shift through the rest of the gears until I reach my desired speed and just go back to cruising or whatever.


(sometimes I even drop to 2nd gear if I'm going closer to the 45 range)
This is the only time you should do what they call rev-match unless you are skipping several gears to slow down fast for some reason.

 

You may want to use double clutching with rev-matching technique.

1) Cluth in

2) Shift to neutral

3) Clutch out

4) Rev (it not only revs the enginge, but also revs the gears. makes easier on synchros.)

5) Clutch in

6) Shift into 3rd.



It may sound a little complicated, but once you get used to it, it becomes pretty natural. Then you can try that with hill and toe technique while braking. Makes corner entries whole lot more exciting. ^^

This method is also useful when you want to shift into 1st or 2nd while moving slowly.

Oh, btw, when you roll down a hill in neutral on freeways to saves some gas, give it a rev BEFORE you depress clutch and shift back to 6th. You match not only the engine speed, but also match the gear speed.

 

You should not roll down a hill in neutral to save gas unless the drag from the gear will slow you down unnecessarily. More specifically, you should not roll down in neutral while lightly applying brake in the name of "saving as"... because the injectors are not putting any fuel into the engine if you coast in gear, whereas in neutral they must to prevent stalling.

So... coasting in gear at any reasonably high rpm (say.. above 1500) costs you 0 gas but costs you a little bit of velocity.... most of the time I just go down the hill in gear and save more gas plus my brakes.

 

How are the injectors not putting any fuel into the engine when it is in neutral when you can hear the engine running and you can see / smell the exhaust gas...?

 

Did I write that it does not inject fuel when it is in neutral? No... I don't think so. I said it does not inject fuel when you are in gear.

More specifically, it does not inject fuel if you are OFF the gas and the rpms are above 1500rpm...

 

Hmmm.. Never thought of that. Thanks for the info.
I don't usually use my brakes when rolling down the hills on freeways. there aren't that many sections of steep hills around here. If I stay in 6th gear while rooling down, I would have to give it little bit of gas just to maintain my speed. (just enough to cancel out the engine braking)

 

Why do I take the time to read this thread when I drive an automatic...?

I think I'm addicted to this site.

 

But if the engine is running while you are in gear, isn't fuel being used to keep things moving? I mean, exhaust output should increase with engine rpm.. right? So wouldn't fuel usage go up as well?

 

No. If the engine RPMs are higher than 1500 and you are fully off the throttle, there is no fuel being injected.

If you are not in gear, this means your revs drop quickly until it gets below 1500 and then it feeds just enough to prevent stalling.

If you are in gear and coasting down a hill, it means you get a little engine braking with no fuel being injected unless you get so slow that your revs drop below 1500. The car's momentum is keeping the engine "turning", which keeps everything else going by way of the belts (pump, alternator, etc).

There was another thread about this specifically somewhere around here.

I'm not sure why exhaust output should be tied to engine rpm? If I took the engine out of your car and hooked it up to a motor and turned the flywheel at 6000 rpm, would there be any exhaust?

 

I see.. thanks for the explanation. What about engine wear with this type of setup?

 

I guess that depends on your oil health.