G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

test pipes?

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  #16  
Old 10-16-2006, 02:32 PM
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I didn't see a *huge* difference between the crawford hiflows and the test pipes, like Dave mentioned. Likewise, I didn't much of a difference from stock to the crawford cats. And like Dave mentioned, I'm sure I'd see greater gains from a tune.

However, my car should not be taken as any kind of barometer. My car showed almost exactly *half* the gains from the mrev+ than any other posted dyno. And that was in addition to the exhaust at the same time.

I'm not saying that my car magically cuts in half gains from all mods; but my car has not responded nearly as well as a few other revups; thawk408 the prime example.

As for the test pipes - I love them. I've got the kinetix resonated test pipes; there is rasp, but not as much as straight pipes. There is also a fuel odor. There's also a rattle from the passenger side; the pipe isn't in direct contact with the heat shield, but I think the passenger heat shield will resonate at certain times with the exhaust; causing the rattle. The noise comes and goes; it's only under WOT, and it's only occurred a handful of times.

Test pipes, in my case at least, will increase overall vibration in the cabin; I feel greater vibration through the floorboard and pedals. If you want your car to retain factory smoothness; test pipes are *not* for you.

If you want to hear what they sound like on my sedan(plus my exhaust), look at this thread:
https://g35driver.com/forums/reviews/119015-kinetix-resonated-test-pipes.html
 
  #17  
Old 10-16-2006, 05:16 PM
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Cant get the videos to work.
 
  #18  
Old 10-16-2006, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
The revup/non-revup issue is interesting though
I don't know why the Rev-Up would be any different though. It uses the same pre-cat/cat setup and the only real differences is the Rev-Up's ability to breath in the upper rpms.
 
  #19  
Old 10-16-2006, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by vodkarocket
Before switching out from HFC's to TP's, my car had a "dead spot" up until 3,500RPMs. From a stand still, my car was an absolute pig. Immediately after switching out to TP's this flat spot was gone, as I mentioned, my car would now break loose from a stand still; a first for me with my sticky 275 T1R's.
My car sometimes has that dead spot. It seems to be dependant with the heat of the motor (prolonged low mph operation) and the weather. Once temps dip into the 60s, my car will smoke most of 1st gear, even with no torque brake launch. It will even chirp 2nd on occasion.

At the track though, I can hardly chirp a tire, even with temps in the 50s. I do feel that annoying dead spot, but the car still pulls ldecent lower to mid 2.1 60 foots, which feel damn slow thanks to the initial deadspot bog.
 
  #20  
Old 10-16-2006, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveB
My car sometimes has that dead spot. It seems to be dependant with the heat of the motor (prolonged low mph operation) and the weather. Once temps dip into the 60s, my car will smoke most of 1st gear, even with no torque brake launch. It will even chirp 2nd on occasion.

At the track though, I can hardly chirp a tire, even with temps in the 50s. I do feel that annoying dead spot, but the car still pulls ldecent lower to mid 2.1 60 foots, which feel damn slow thanks to the initial deadspot bog.
Mine is not weather-dependant. Sure, the car feels a bit slower in the heat when the motor is all heated up- that's the case with any car. But, that's not what this dead spot pertains to as it was just as bad in the 50's as it was in the 80's.

As opposed to OEM sized 17's, I'm running 275/30/20 which was [up until I got the TP's] impossible to break out from a launch w/o brake torquing. Hell, I couldn't get them to squeak even with brake torquing before the TP's. Hopefully a couple people that have ridden/driven my car before/after will see this thread and offer their impressions.
 
  #21  
Old 10-16-2006, 06:42 PM
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Test pipes make power. I can attest to that. But even the resonated WILL rasp and they WILL throw a SES light. Wrap them tight with header wrap to damp the ringing and vibe on the heatshield. Then get a $10 set of no-foulers and your SES light problem is solved.

Expect to be a bit lean with them because like with any breathing enhancement, you won't get the most from them until you add more fuel per a reflash or ECU piggyback.
 
  #22  
Old 10-24-2006, 06:56 PM
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Hey, if you stall test pipes, how do you get the ECU light to turn off buying what for $10.00. I am not sure what the product is, can you explain a little bit more. Thanks
 
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