I always thought the stock Infiniti/ Nissan plugs were always NGK...

Are these the plugs you got:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=960&PTSet=A

$13 a piece...

NGK.com has the same ones for $8 a piece.

 

i got these


http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...artNumber=4469


part number 4469

the manager at kragen told me to call in the order. ask about the 10% off all items. for making a call order.

so i did and got them for 42 out the door.

and dont forget the grease for the plugs.

 

yes Oem plugs are ngk platinum

 

thanks for the info.

i am so use to only seeing lower brand spark plugs in factory vehicles.

 

Got a question, I see the owner's manual states that the G35x calls for 80W-90 (GL-5) rear differential gear oil when draining and refilling. Is it absolutely mandatory to stick with that number... or can I use Mobil1 Synthetic Ger Lube LS 75W-90. It's 75W because it's synthetic, otherwise they do make one in 80W-90... I just want to go synthetic so I can go with longer intervals...

Here is the link to this product:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/..._75W-90LS.aspx

So is it good to use or should I stick with the specified 80W-90 gear oil for the rear differential?

 

I changed out my 60K plugs last night and the gaps were spot on (0.044) and all the plugs had very even and perfect color. The VERY scary thing is how tight these plugs get over time. The saying that you must loosen and retighten spark plugs every 30K miles in aluminum heads holds very true here. If you don't do this, the carbon build-up around the threads gets really excessive which then makes the initial torque to loosen the plugs more like 40+ftl/lbs vs the stock 20 ft/lbs. Nearly every plug I removed was a pucker-up moment because the were so hard to break loose at first. The first two turns felt exactly like trying to loosen a cross-threaded bolt. It's very unnerving. It would be very scary to remove a stock plug with 105K miles. I honestly believe the carbon build-up on the threads could be so much that it could cross-thread coming out.

 

i used the 75w90 mobil syn in my rear diff.
my car actually felt way better after.

my car is a coupe. should be the same.

 

Yesterday I also changed out my tranny fluid. According to the shop manager at my Nissan dealership, they only drain the tranny and they recommend doing it every 30K miles. He said he's never known any local dealership to do full tranny fluid changes and that tranny "flushes" are not recommended for the JATCO 5AT in the G and most every other RWD Nissan/Infiniti. He said the flushing systems put to much stress on the valve body and could push a peice of clutch debris into a bad place. The guy was a wealth of information.

I bought 8 QTs of J-matic for $85. I raised the car, drained the tranny, and lowered the car back down to static level while draining. Exactly 3 quarts and 100ml of fluid came out. The drain bolt is on the bottom of the tranny pan, passenger side. The bolt is 19mm and requires 25 ft/lbs. I plan on doing one more drain in about 5K miles and call it good for 30K miles.

If you really want to remove all the tranny fluid, the FSM process is pretty elaborate. You drain the tranny then fill. Then you remove one of the lines to the tranny cooler and start the car. As the car is running, the tranny pump will push the fluid out. You keep adding new fluid up top and watch the tranny fluid coming out until it starts looking clean. The hard part would be to figure out how is coming out and how much is going in. Tranny fluid expands (15%) when it get hot which makes taking readings very hard, especially if you're not certain how much fluid is really in the tranny. I think this procedure is why most shops just drain the tranny every 30K miles (much earlier than recommended) and just keep the fluid relatively fresh.

 

Damn DaveB, you are definitely one informative dude... I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience here with us.

 

DaveB, when you changed out the spark plugs, did you also get 6 new "spark plug tubes" to go with the new spark plugs? Or is that not necessary?

 

its not necessary.

only change the plugs.
'
im not DaveB
but that will be the same answer he will give you

 

I'm not certain spark plugs tubes are. The only "tubes" I'm aware of are the tubes that shield the plugs within the valve cover. There have been cases of oil getting into the tubes and around the plugs, but the problem is with the gasket between the tube and cylinder head. You'll know you have a problem if you see oil on the spark plug coil pack when you pull it out. It's a pretty rare problem though.

 

I also add that I installed NGK Iriduim plugs this go around since they're supposedly better (Nissan uses them in the new G) and they're cheaper ($6.98 from Advance Auto). The plugs are suppose to be pre-gapped to the spec 0.044, but they were closer to 0.041-0.042. Other NGK plugs I've bought in the past were spot on, but these weren't so I had to adjust them. Not like a difference on 0.002-0.003 is going to make much difference though.

 

Alright, I got most of the stuff on my list of things to do for this tune up:

1) Matic J ATF (4 qts.)
2) Alt. and P/S belts
3) Mobil1 Synthetic 75W-90 gear oil for the rear differential (2 qts.)
4) Prestone Antifreeze (2 gallons)... Manual says 9 qts./ 2.25 gallons


About to order:

5) NGK spark plugs
6) K&N OEM air filter replacement

Is it worth dishing out the extra cash for a K&N or is the stock one pretty good in this case?

 

Personally I stick with the stock filter since it does an OK job with the filtering. I've had bad experience with K&N from a previous car, which caused a check engine light and the throttle body to be clogged up.