Elaboration on noises posted in FAQ
Elaboration on noises posted in FAQ
Two queestions from FAQ
1.
Q - Why does the front end of my car make creeking noises at low speeds going over driveways/speed bumps etc?
Check (or have a dealer/shop check) the compression rods which are known to go bad and can be replaced under warranty from dealer.
I'm out of warranty and am experiencing this creaking noise. Is this a dangerous problem or can I live with it? If not, how much can I expect to pay to fix it?
2.
Q - Why does my rear windows make a popping/ticking noise over bumps and on accleration when they are rolled all the way up?
This is because the window regulator bolts are too long and should be replaced with the shorter ones specified in the Infiniti TSB ITB05-034. They can be replaced under warranty as well.
Again, out of warranty. How much to fix this annoying clicking sound? Something I can do on my own since this isn't a safety related issue?
Thanks!
Eric
1.
Q - Why does the front end of my car make creeking noises at low speeds going over driveways/speed bumps etc?
Check (or have a dealer/shop check) the compression rods which are known to go bad and can be replaced under warranty from dealer.
I'm out of warranty and am experiencing this creaking noise. Is this a dangerous problem or can I live with it? If not, how much can I expect to pay to fix it?
2.
Q - Why does my rear windows make a popping/ticking noise over bumps and on accleration when they are rolled all the way up?
This is because the window regulator bolts are too long and should be replaced with the shorter ones specified in the Infiniti TSB ITB05-034. They can be replaced under warranty as well.
Again, out of warranty. How much to fix this annoying clicking sound? Something I can do on my own since this isn't a safety related issue?
Thanks!
Eric
1. spray all your suspension components that have rubber bushings with silicone spray ,5 minute job (still works since august)
2. grind off 2mm off the bolts that hold the window in place or just get shorter bolts ,20 mins of work max (worked for me)
2. grind off 2mm off the bolts that hold the window in place or just get shorter bolts ,20 mins of work max (worked for me)
[quote=maciejk]1. spray all your suspension components that have rubber bushings with silicone spray ,5 minute job (still works since august)
I don't use silicone based products on my bushings or rubber. I could be off, but if I remember my chemistry lessons, silicone may in fact attack the long hydrocarbon chains of some rubbers (and other materials such as vynyl, which is used on most cars today) and, by breaking these bonds, shorten the molecules with resulting loss of elasticity, pliability and other problems.
Tire manufacturers, for example, add two primary sacrificial protectants to the rubber. To protect against UV, they add carbon black. This is why tires dont come in designer colors to match your paint. The carbon black will turn white/gray as it absorbs the UV and dissipates the energy as heat. This is the basis of rubber parts turning gray as they age. To protect against ozone, tire manufacturers add a wax based, sacrificial protectant. The ozone attacks the wax and depletes it. As the tire rolls, additional wax is forced to the surface of the tire. This is referred to as blooming. This blooming refreshes the surface wax protectant. A tire that has not been flexed will have the wax depleted by the ozone and thus begin to degrade and suffer dry rot. The silicone oil that is the main ingredient in most silicone lubricants, may actually dissolve the wax and be the cause of premature tire sidewall cracking/failure. My question would be, would silicone based sprays do the same to parts you spray. I spray my bushing and all possible moving suspension parts with lithium grease. One caveat, there may be others who know more and disagree; however, it won't hurt to simply not use the silicone sprays (which also attract dirt) and go for something a bit more substantial.
I don't use silicone based products on my bushings or rubber. I could be off, but if I remember my chemistry lessons, silicone may in fact attack the long hydrocarbon chains of some rubbers (and other materials such as vynyl, which is used on most cars today) and, by breaking these bonds, shorten the molecules with resulting loss of elasticity, pliability and other problems.
Tire manufacturers, for example, add two primary sacrificial protectants to the rubber. To protect against UV, they add carbon black. This is why tires dont come in designer colors to match your paint. The carbon black will turn white/gray as it absorbs the UV and dissipates the energy as heat. This is the basis of rubber parts turning gray as they age. To protect against ozone, tire manufacturers add a wax based, sacrificial protectant. The ozone attacks the wax and depletes it. As the tire rolls, additional wax is forced to the surface of the tire. This is referred to as blooming. This blooming refreshes the surface wax protectant. A tire that has not been flexed will have the wax depleted by the ozone and thus begin to degrade and suffer dry rot. The silicone oil that is the main ingredient in most silicone lubricants, may actually dissolve the wax and be the cause of premature tire sidewall cracking/failure. My question would be, would silicone based sprays do the same to parts you spray. I spray my bushing and all possible moving suspension parts with lithium grease. One caveat, there may be others who know more and disagree; however, it won't hurt to simply not use the silicone sprays (which also attract dirt) and go for something a bit more substantial.
Man, you lost me with the chemistry lesson. What if I do nothing since all these lubricants seems to have questionable after effects? Is it dangerous to do nothing about the popping sound. The windows I can do myself.
lol. that was a nice chemistry lesson. i think im gonna go to the dealers on tuesday to check out my rods. they seem to be creeking noises whenever i leave my driveway. i find it weird because i have an 06..
Originally Posted by espiegs
Man, you lost me with the chemistry lesson. What if I do nothing since all these lubricants seems to have questionable after effects? Is it dangerous to do nothing about the popping sound. The windows I can do myself.
I do squirt my bushings and all possible suspension parts with a lubricant. It quiets the creaking instantly (doesn't solve the popping sound tho) and will keep it so for about 2-3 months. The creaking usually comes from the bushings on the K- member. Use LITHIUM GREASE or some other non-silicone based spray.
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Originally Posted by Mr.PotatoHead
lol. that was a nice chemistry lesson. i think im gonna go to the dealers on tuesday to check out my rods. they seem to be creeking noises whenever i leave my driveway. i find it weird because i have an 06..
Keep us posted. Sorry about the chemistry "lesson,"- probably the last thing any of us need to read up on over the week-end.
Originally Posted by maciejk
the silicone that i used says its safe on rubber
1) creaking is def. from the compression rods. replacement (revised( bushings are $40 for the pair. You need a hydraulic press to get them in/out. Otherwise you will pay the dealership $60 to press in the pair.
New compression rods will run you around $350 bucks for the pair.
New compression rods will run you around $350 bucks for the pair.
Originally Posted by Tollboothwilley
1) creaking is def. from the compression rods. replacement (revised( bushings are $40 for the pair. You need a hydraulic press to get them in/out. Otherwise you will pay the dealership $60 to press in the pair. New compression rods will run you around $350 bucks for the pair.
Did I miss that answer to weather this rod issue could be dangerous? Could they crack or cause instability in some way? Or could I live with the creaking noise without any issues? Clarification would be appreciated. Thanks!
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