Lol

 

I took out sound deadening from just the trunk area, the big patch and small patch on the passenger side. This was 15lbs.

I removed all seat belts and seat belt hardware this was over 40lbs all together.

You can go widebody and remove some of your rear quarters and replacing all your panels with fiberglass like I did Never weighed that.

 

You removed all seat belts? Are you crazy? lol. The reduced weight won't help if you're dead.

 

No kidding. Stupidest thing I've ever heard just to save 40lbs in a car. It's his own life though, hopefully he won't kill someone else when he becomes a projectile thru the windshield.

 

I never wear seatbelts.I drive dangerously

 

Don't take weight reduction lightly. 100 lbs is .1 in the 1/4 mile. I have a 95 Maxima I have reduced from 3100 to 2500 lbs. It runs 12.3 N/A and 10.85 @ 125 with a 150 shot and a 1.58 60'.

Next year I am planning on getting an 05 G35 sedan so we will see how much I can reduce it. The class I am planning on racing requires 11.99 and quicker. Hoping to do it with a small shot, I was able to get the Max to run 10.98 on a 75 shot.

I do have a G35 currently but its my wife's car and she don't let me play with it.

 

wow please tell me what mods you have to reach that hp

 

I know this is almost 6 years later but any update on this? Lol

 

Just get lighter wheels, put 16 lb RSX wheels on my Accord, replacing wheels that were 25 lb each. 36 lb reduction in rotating weight is very noticeable. Looking for lighter wheels for my G35.

 

I ended up sending my forged 18" WedsSport TS-005s (~17lbs) to the insurance boneyard with my late lamented sedanX. That made me sad. But having the 19" Rays on the new coupe helps make up for it a little bit. They're each still about 5lbs heavier.

 

I remember years ago when Sport Compact Car was trying to build up a 150 mph CRX they did back to back dyno tests with the original wheels vs lighter wheels. Showed consistent gains of 5-7 hp throughout the rpm range. Not that the engine actually made more power of course but the lighter wheels took less power from the engine to accelerate.

 

On the motorcycles I see at the local dyno here in town, everyone seems to go aluminum with the drive sprockets and with a lightweight low friction chain and lightweight magnesium wheels. OEM is steel (longevity).

This allows the RPM's to climb faster.

It may not truly "increase engine output" but the lightweight drive makes the RPM's climb faster and the front wheel come off the ground faster. Always feels great on the butt dyno.

Parasitic losses are reduced and the wheel hp would be closer to hp at the crank!

 

I road and MTB, so I know first hand how much lighter wheels help when accelerating and climbing. The ultimate lightweight carbon wheels for a road bike run around $6000 for the pair. Just under 900 grams total weight.

Amazing that car wheels are cheaper.

 

I put in a DSS carbon driveshaft. Nice weight drop with that. Coupe model is the same as a sedan. Ditching the 2 front seats is key, ive eliminated the driverside for now replaced with a bride euroster. I think im gonna swap that to the pax side for a Stradia on the drivers side for a but more hold.

 

I'm not posting this just to answer the OP's question but it's a good read if anyone here hasn't read through ttrank's build. By far my favorite car ever on this forum and bonus, I had the good fortune of driving it a few years ago. Beast is all that comes to mind to describe the experience.

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...ddy-twins.html