SES, VDC, SLIP lights + stalling = crappy b-day
SES, VDC, SLIP lights + stalling = crappy b-day
I went out with a few friends last night for my birthday. I didn't realize that my car was low on gas when I was driving out last night; my car stalled on my driveway, which is a steep hill. SES, VDC, SLIP lights are on.
I figured it was no big deal, it's all level to the gas station. Went to the nearest Sunoco, put in $20 of 92 oct. Drove to the restaurant, drove back home, only SES light on the dash. I chalked it up to low gas and went to bed.
I got up for work today, started the car, SES light is still on. Pulled out of my driveway, car VIOLENTLY decelerated, and I stopped. Car is still on and I continue on my way. I pulled out onto the main drag, shift to 2nd gear, another VIOLENT deceleration and SES, VDC, and SLIP lights are all back on. I continued to drive to work with no problem.
The sedan has 63,XXX miles on it and is stock. Oil has been changed every 3500 miles, just did a transmission and differential fluid change 2 months ago and replaced the battery 9 months ago. Air filter is 4 months old.
I know a lot of that last paragraph will not mean much, but it's only to clarify that the car is basically in stock form and has been maintained since I've owned it. I know that some people have had issues with hesitation after installing manifold spacers.
Lastly, I can't tell if the deceleration is a misfire or the brakes.
Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
I figured it was no big deal, it's all level to the gas station. Went to the nearest Sunoco, put in $20 of 92 oct. Drove to the restaurant, drove back home, only SES light on the dash. I chalked it up to low gas and went to bed.
I got up for work today, started the car, SES light is still on. Pulled out of my driveway, car VIOLENTLY decelerated, and I stopped. Car is still on and I continue on my way. I pulled out onto the main drag, shift to 2nd gear, another VIOLENT deceleration and SES, VDC, and SLIP lights are all back on. I continued to drive to work with no problem.
The sedan has 63,XXX miles on it and is stock. Oil has been changed every 3500 miles, just did a transmission and differential fluid change 2 months ago and replaced the battery 9 months ago. Air filter is 4 months old.
I know a lot of that last paragraph will not mean much, but it's only to clarify that the car is basically in stock form and has been maintained since I've owned it. I know that some people have had issues with hesitation after installing manifold spacers.
Lastly, I can't tell if the deceleration is a misfire or the brakes.
Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
Is it cutting out like it's not getting fuel? May have plugged up the fuel lines by running it so low on gas. I would take it to AutoZone and have them hook it up to see why the SES light is on.
That's what I'm planning to do after work today. The only thing I'm worried about is why the traction control turns off and the limited slip light stays on.
Also forgot to mention....
Diff Lube
Trans Fluid
Also forgot to mention....
Diff Lube
Trans Fluid
Looks like this guy is having the same problem. Might want to PM him and see if he has found out anything.
https://g35driver.com/forums/g-spot/...ights-all.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/g-spot/...ights-all.html
Just took the car out for lunch. I got the jolt again. SES has been on solid the entire time. The engine runs fine, but as soon as I get that jolt the VDC and SLIP lights come on. Perhaps it's a sensor that's taking a dump on me. I doubt it's the fuel pump; I do not get the jolt after the lights come on.
I took a 20 minute drive after the light came on to see if it'd happen again. So far, nothing.
I PM'd the OP of the other thread that came up to see if I can get some answers. Car's going to AutoJoke at 4:00 to get a scan. If anything pops up, the code and description will be posted up here.
I took a 20 minute drive after the light came on to see if it'd happen again. So far, nothing.
I PM'd the OP of the other thread that came up to see if I can get some answers. Car's going to AutoJoke at 4:00 to get a scan. If anything pops up, the code and description will be posted up here.
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Funny you mention that....
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I haven't.
I'll be doing that after work as well. I should also mention that the engine is smooth as silk, shifts are as smooth as before, and there is no discernible engine, transmission or differential noise.
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I haven't.
I'll be doing that after work as well. I should also mention that the engine is smooth as silk, shifts are as smooth as before, and there is no discernible engine, transmission or differential noise.
Okay, brake fluid looks good.
Went to AutoZone and had them scan it. I have a P0345 fault for bad cam position sensor on Bank 2.
I hope that's really the problem, though I can't imagine why it'd be messing with my VDC.
Went to AutoZone and had them scan it. I have a P0345 fault for bad cam position sensor on Bank 2.
I hope that's really the problem, though I can't imagine why it'd be messing with my VDC.
Did some searching and came across this post.
Sounds like we have a winner!
t the car did have this random issue and would just die sometimes and then be hard to start back. No SES light or throw a code.
Took it to the dealer and they found nothing.
Month later the wife noticed that the car is hard to start and then the SES light comes on an stays lit.
Car started to die more frequently over the next few days and upon restart the VDC off and Slip light would be lit up along with the SES.
Took it back to the dealer and low and behold it was the cam position/angle sensor.
Dealer replaced it while i waited and $50 deductible sure beat the $279 that it would have cost. They also ordered the door check that allows the driver door to stay open as it did new (just a slight wind/nudge will close it on your leg) it will be covered under warr as well.
Great experience at the dealer, very timely and the car was repaired, washed, wiped down and vacumed out in less than 1.5 hours.
Hopefully this willbe the last of stuff screwing up. Car has a lil over 70 K miles on it.
Sat in a new G37 at the stealership and was shocked at how more room the new seats and redesigned sunroof gives you.
Wife tried to get me to trade ours in on one. If we were not moving and relocating inthe next few months and G37s would be in the driveway
Took it to the dealer and they found nothing.
Month later the wife noticed that the car is hard to start and then the SES light comes on an stays lit.
Car started to die more frequently over the next few days and upon restart the VDC off and Slip light would be lit up along with the SES.
Took it back to the dealer and low and behold it was the cam position/angle sensor.
Dealer replaced it while i waited and $50 deductible sure beat the $279 that it would have cost. They also ordered the door check that allows the driver door to stay open as it did new (just a slight wind/nudge will close it on your leg) it will be covered under warr as well.
Great experience at the dealer, very timely and the car was repaired, washed, wiped down and vacumed out in less than 1.5 hours.
Hopefully this willbe the last of stuff screwing up. Car has a lil over 70 K miles on it.
Sat in a new G37 at the stealership and was shocked at how more room the new seats and redesigned sunroof gives you.
Wife tried to get me to trade ours in on one. If we were not moving and relocating inthe next few months and G37s would be in the driveway
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My car just started doing this same thing. It funny because I just installed a ztube and this started happening. When I was installed my ztube, I cleaned my throttle body. Then my car started stalling. It just dies while I'm driving. I will scan me code and see if I end up with the same code.
My car just started doing this same thing. It funny because I just installed a ztube and this started happening. When I was installed my ztube, I cleaned my throttle body. Then my car started stalling. It just dies while I'm driving. I will scan me code and see if I end up with the same code.
Heard the life on both of them are about the same so if one is done the other one is probably on its way out too.
Is that correct?
Replace the Cam Sensor. It takes about 10 minutes or less each side. There is a post on how to do it. My advice would be to buy them from Nissan. I bought mine from Auto Zone and it lasted all of one damn day.
Here is DIY:
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...y-version.html
Here is DIY:
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...y-version.html