Just for kicks, I punched in my cars info (05 awd) and combined mpg is 18 and qualifies for "the cash for clunker".

Anyway, I get about 16 mpg combined and this car just sucks in gas. Wished I had the rwd 6m/t.

 

Yeah, my 04 gets about 19-20 city 22 or so highway... and I enjoy the sound of my exhaust, so yeahh.....

 

It qualifies under the mileage requirement....but if you have a G35x worth less than $4500...it's prob not a running car and wouldn't qualify under the clause that the vehicle much be driven to the dealership in running condition

 

Even if my G was worth less than $4500, I couldn't bring myself to trade it in under this program. Just found the procedure they are supposedly doing to all cars that are being traded in. It's basically like lethal injection.

Engine Disablement Procedures for the CARS Program
THIS PROCEDURE IS NOT TO BE USED BY THE VEHICLE OWNER

Perform the following procedure to disable the vehicle engine.

1. Obtain solution of 40% sodium silicate/60% water. (The Sodium Silicate
(SiO2/Na2O) must have a weight ratio of 3.0 or greater.)
2. Drain engine oil for environmentally appropriate disposal.
3. Install the oil drain plug.
4. Since the procedure is intended to render the engine inoperative, drive or move the
vehicle to the desired area for disablement.
5. Pour enough solution in the engine through the oil fill for the oil pump to circulate
the solution throughout the engine. Start by adding 2 quarts of the solution, which
should be sufficient in most cases.
CAUTION: Wear goggles and gloves. Appropriate protective clothing should be
worn to prevent silicate solution from coming into contact with the skin.
6. Replace the oil fill cap.
7. Start the engine.
8. Run engine at approximately 2000 rpm (for safety reasons do not operate at high
rpm) until the engine stops. (Typically the engine will operate for 3 to 7 minutes. As
the solution starts to affect engine operation, the operator will have to apply more
throttle to keep the engine at 2000 rpm.)
9. Allow the engine to cool for at least 1 hour.
10. With the battery at full charge or with auxiliary power to provide the power of a fully
charged battery, attempt to start the engine.
11. If the engine will not operate at idle, the procedure is complete.
12. If the engine will operate at idle, repeat steps 7 through 11 until the engine will no
longer idle.
13. Attach a label to the engine that legibly states the following:

This engine is from a vehicle that is part of the Car Allowance Rebate System
(CARS). It has significant internal damage caused by operating the
engine with a sodium silicate solution (liquid glass) instead of oil.

 

ouch I couldnt do that to my car! maybe an old pile of scrap metal but not the G

 

Have you seen half the cars they are doing this too? They are all still perfect cars that could have still been used. Not anymore.

Stupid program.

 

Exactly. Logic would say that they would cherry pick the nice ones and resell them or even give them away to people that could put them to use. Instead they are scrapping them all, no matter how nice they may be. I realize they are trying to get less fuel efficient cars off the road, but this just seems a little bizarre to me.

 

So let me get this straight... I (tax payer) give some schmo $4500 to give his car a dirt nap just so he can go buy a more fuel effecient one?

 

The $4500 that you'll receive if you do this program is in addition to the scrap value. It doesn't sound like a bad program if you were planning on trading in your G for a car that's more efficient. I'm just curious as to how much the scrap value is for our cars.

Also, about the dealers cherry picking which cars to keep after they've been traded in:

 

Are you sure about that? I assumed you either got the rebate or nothing, not the rebate plus more cash for the actual trade-in.

Either way, I would much rather sell my G to someone who wanted it than have it killed and shredded.

 

^I just did a ninja edit

It's the rebate plus the scrap value of the car.

http://www.cars.gov/faq#category-10

 

its incredibly narrow minded and short sighted to say that it's a stupid program. you're paying out money to get gas guzzlers off the road, and what i would personally hope is that people will be leaving the dealership w something more economical, maybe a hybrid, civic, or smartcar. it'll save them money and save us money.

 

Actually, after reading a little more about the clunker thing, our G doesn't qualify. The clunker car has to be 2001 or older.

How do I know if my car or truck is an eligible trade-in vehicle?

There are several requirements (but you also have to meet certain conditions for the car or truck you wish to buy). Your dealer can help you determine whether you have an eligible trade in vehicle.

Your trade-in vehicle must

* have been manufactured less than 25 years before the date you trade it in
* have a "new" combined city/highway fuel economy of 18 miles per gallon or less
* be in drivable condition
* be continuously insured and registered to the same owner for the full year preceding the trade-in
* The trade-in vehicle must have been manufactured not earlier than 25 years before the date of trade in and, in the case of a category 3 vehicle, must also have been manufactured not later than model year 2001

 

How is it going to save us money, when someone is selling their perfectly good car for scrap, so they can be loaded down with payments on a new car? And WE (the taxpayers) are paying for this 'rebate'.

So it really makes no sense. These vehicles could have been donated and given to people who could have actually used them. Instead, so we cn follow this 'green' BS movement, we are crushing cars and sticking them in junkyards.

 

You guys realize that the top 3 cars turned in on this are the SUVs that would have made it into the hands of teenage drivers in a couple years, right?

Which would you prefer to share the road with: teen in 6000lb SUV or teen in Honda Accord?

GREAT PROGRAM!