That car looks great. Cant even tell it had a rebuild.

Get the Z drop and a nice shade of tint, and it would look super.

BTW, only cars with the premium package came with pass power seats? I thaught even the base had that.

 

I'm fairly sure they're the same. I had bought 2006 Coupe Sport springs to use for the rear springs with my full setup from a 2004.5 Z, but the rear springs were the same length and same markings.

Here's the thread I was talking about earlier.

http://www.nfspmotorsports.com/forum...php?topic=51.0

 

Thanks. I'm happy with it. Rebuilt cars are not for everybody, but I know I'll be taken care of if there are any problems. My data on the premium package came from here, but they could be wrong, I dunno. http://www.automotive.com/2003/12/in...ews/index.html


Thanks. That looks good. Def got something to think about. I will drive this stock for awhile, though. Heck, I wasn't even car shopping and this fell in my lap. I had set a personal goal of hitting 300K on the old Max just because I knew it could and I was fully content driving it. That's usually when good things happen to me, haha.

 

Nope. Mine has a manual passenger seat. Also has leather and sunroof.

 

Nope. Mine has a manual passenger seat. Also has leather and sunroof.

 

Am I a tard? There's no way to check the trans fluid on this thing? I found the fill tube and removed the 10mm bolt, but no dipstick...

 

^No you're not the tard, whoever built the car with no dipstick was. I like to imagine he was dragged into an alley and shot in the head... probably not though.
My car is the same. You can order the dipstick for like $10-15 I'll post the link when I get back home if someone doesn't beat me to it.

 

^^ Missed a chance to punk the noob, LOL!

 

^Oops. I didn't even think of that. You're evil

Ok, next time we'll do it (this question comes up about every 2 months anyway )

 

Cool, guess I'll be ordering a dipstick. Yeah, you guys are nicer to noobs than the jeep forum where I hang out. You really have been helpful, though. Thanks. Ok, here's your second chance. Tonight, the driver's seat belt wouldn't "click" in. Kept pushing it in and out multiple times and then it finally engages, sometimes after I'm already moving down the street continuing to fiddle with it. That's just frustrating. Is that a common problem?

 

negative, at least not at all... mine is an 05 but still.. a seat belt is a seat belt, it should click regardless. have it checked.

 

Yeah, I think I'll take it off and mess with it for a minute. Maybe the PO dropped a coin in there or something. Then go to the parts car and grab another one.

 

I can't help myself. I don't even officially own this car yet and I've already got a list of things to work on today. Any other ideas for "pre-buy" checklist type items are obviously welcome.

1) Put it on ramps and do a thorough inspection underneath, esp on the driver's side where it was damaged.

2) Clean MAF - idle is just a tad rough/low.

3) Perform all of the "relearn" procedures (ECU, accel pedal position, throttle position, idle air). I have a feeling that the trans shifts should be a tad crisper and the ECU relearn will take care of that.

4) Check spark plugs. Hopefully they're not the originals and seized up real good.

5) Mess with the driver's seat belt latch mechanism ^

6) See if I can find a drop-in K&N locally.

7) Order a tensioner pulley for the AC belt. The bearings are talking to me when cold and it will only get worse. Confirmed last night with a stethoscope that it is indeed the culprit.

I love getting/keeping an old car in tip-top shape

 

Well crap!!!! What have I done wrong? I cleaned the MAF with some electronic cleaner. Then did the ECU, accel pedal position and throttle position relearn from procedures posted on here. Then I go to start it and all seems good at first, then it stalls. Start it back up and it's fine. Go driving and it won't go above 2200-2300 RPMs and starts to sputter and cut out at that point...same thing in neutral. Also, the CEL, "VDC off", and "Slip" lights are all on constant. Oh, I hope I didn't make a catastrophic noob mistake. I've done similar procedures on my Maxima before and didn't have any problems. PLEASE HELP!!!

 

I am a tard, it's official. It helps if you actually plug in the MAF after cleaning it, lol. It runs fine now and the idle is good and smooth. However, just the CEL is still on. And when I try to do the ECU relearn again it won't start blinking when it's supposed to. I tried the disconnect battery and push brake pedal method, too. How do I get the stupid CEL to go off? Will disconnecting the battery for 12 hours do it for sure?