changing out speakers
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 376
Likes: 12
From: providence R.I
changing out speakers
What are the best speakers to put in the door of an 03 G sedan? unfortunately my car wasn't blessed with a bose system so i'm gonna change out the 4 door speakers so what should i go with? comments and pics?? thanks guys
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 376
Likes: 12
From: providence R.I
i listen to everything (except country lol that **** suxx), the money part isn't really an issue right now so any thoughts and opinions are welcome, i have an aftermarket amp in it right now using the stock headunit.
Don't worry us bose ppl weren't blessed either, the boss system sounds like crap, look on ebay for phoenix gold components rsd65 I believe that's the model, if nothing comes up PM me and for the rear get coaxial speakers not components
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Now recommend some brands and models for him!
I don't know that I'd run my subs and speakers off the same amp. Can't believe only one person has offered a suggestion.
Your best bet, hit up Crutchfield (which will let you choose your make/model) and find the price range you're looking for. Then head over to your nearest car audio specialist and listen to the wall until you find a sound you like in your price range.
My personal preferences include Infinity (no pun intended) speakers, and JL audio for subs.
A lot of people stand by their brand, they all have a different sound. Smaller subs tend to kick a lot harder, so if you listen to a lot of alternative/rock go with a couple 10"s, if you like rap/hip hop I'd say grab some 12"s.
Even the cheapest mono-block amp for your subs would be better than running them off the same amp as your speakers.
Your best bet, hit up Crutchfield (which will let you choose your make/model) and find the price range you're looking for. Then head over to your nearest car audio specialist and listen to the wall until you find a sound you like in your price range.
My personal preferences include Infinity (no pun intended) speakers, and JL audio for subs.
A lot of people stand by their brand, they all have a different sound. Smaller subs tend to kick a lot harder, so if you listen to a lot of alternative/rock go with a couple 10"s, if you like rap/hip hop I'd say grab some 12"s.
Even the cheapest mono-block amp for your subs would be better than running them off the same amp as your speakers.
I don't have much of a set-up in my G...but I've done a lot of car audio in the past... mostly in my '95 Acura GSR.
MY suggestion will cost you a good amount of manual work and probably $1200+.. but you can make it cheaper depending on what brands you choose to use.
First off... NEW HEADUNIT. I have a Pioneer DEH P6000UB. It come with a USB port you can located anywhere you want, and when you plug an iPod into it, the headunit can control it. (very convenient and easier to use than other units like kenwood or alpine)
These you can get for under $200
-Note: In order to get an aftermarket unit, the trim piece with new HVAC controls will set you back around $200 as well.
Run 3 sets of RCAs to the trunk for Sub, front, and rear speakers.
Run wire from the trunk to behind the unit for 4 speakers. This way you can have a 4-way amp in the trunk, and power the 4 interior speakers via the harness behind the head unit. (easiest way to do it without relocating or running a ton of wire)
-This isn't very costly, just cost of the wire (sounds like you already have power, ground, and remote wire ran)
I recommend alpine type R components for the front, and type r coaxials for the rear.
~$125 for the components
~$70 for the coaxials
Use a cheaper 4 channel amp around 800w to run the interior speakers. I got a pioneer on eBay for
~$70
Buy a nicer 1000w monoblock amp for your subwoofer
-I paid $175 for a rockford at best buuy.
Its best to keep this amp separate from your other speakers.
And as far as the sub... thats your choice really. I had an audiobahn 10" 1800w woofer in a custom vented box. It had the volume of 2 12's. Less space and higher quality for the win!
Hope my opinions helped!
**NOTE: I base my prices on what I paid and how cheap you can find things on eBay, craigslist, and/or Amazon, etc....
MY suggestion will cost you a good amount of manual work and probably $1200+.. but you can make it cheaper depending on what brands you choose to use.
First off... NEW HEADUNIT. I have a Pioneer DEH P6000UB. It come with a USB port you can located anywhere you want, and when you plug an iPod into it, the headunit can control it. (very convenient and easier to use than other units like kenwood or alpine)
These you can get for under $200
-Note: In order to get an aftermarket unit, the trim piece with new HVAC controls will set you back around $200 as well.
Run 3 sets of RCAs to the trunk for Sub, front, and rear speakers.
Run wire from the trunk to behind the unit for 4 speakers. This way you can have a 4-way amp in the trunk, and power the 4 interior speakers via the harness behind the head unit. (easiest way to do it without relocating or running a ton of wire)
-This isn't very costly, just cost of the wire (sounds like you already have power, ground, and remote wire ran)
I recommend alpine type R components for the front, and type r coaxials for the rear.
~$125 for the components
~$70 for the coaxials
Use a cheaper 4 channel amp around 800w to run the interior speakers. I got a pioneer on eBay for
~$70
Buy a nicer 1000w monoblock amp for your subwoofer
-I paid $175 for a rockford at best buuy.
Its best to keep this amp separate from your other speakers.
And as far as the sub... thats your choice really. I had an audiobahn 10" 1800w woofer in a custom vented box. It had the volume of 2 12's. Less space and higher quality for the win!
Hope my opinions helped!
**NOTE: I base my prices on what I paid and how cheap you can find things on eBay, craigslist, and/or Amazon, etc....
what amp are you using? make/model?
do you want a coax or component?
I like the JL sound but I think they cost to much for the performance.
coax, JBL infinity for budget.
Image Dynamics makes a really really good coax
component -
I like the CDT sound. Some say they cant get a good mid bass sound, I can feel my MID bass in my leg, not sub bass, mid bass.
Alpine type X components sound really nice and can be had a decent price online
do you want a coax or component?
I like the JL sound but I think they cost to much for the performance.
coax, JBL infinity for budget.
Image Dynamics makes a really really good coax
component -
I like the CDT sound. Some say they cant get a good mid bass sound, I can feel my MID bass in my leg, not sub bass, mid bass.
Alpine type X components sound really nice and can be had a decent price online
Just stick with components up front and coaxials in the rear if money is an issue.
RE Audio-XXX components
Memphis Amps
Morel-Coaxials for rear-Or if money doesnt matter use components
Make sure to buy some sound dampening material for behind the speakers, this will help a lot.
I would personally run 2 amps for the door speakers.
1.150x2
2.75x2
Then run 1 class d amp for the woofer.
1.1000x1
RE Audio-XXX components
Memphis Amps
Morel-Coaxials for rear-Or if money doesnt matter use components
Make sure to buy some sound dampening material for behind the speakers, this will help a lot.
I would personally run 2 amps for the door speakers.
1.150x2
2.75x2
Then run 1 class d amp for the woofer.
1.1000x1
this components are amazing! they have crisp highs and pretty good bass too. It comes with tweeters to replace the stock bose tweeters by the pillars and crossovers
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-PHO...fAudioQ5fVideo
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-PHO...fAudioQ5fVideo
I don't have much of a set-up in my G...but I've done a lot of car audio in the past... mostly in my '95 Acura GSR.
MY suggestion will cost you a good amount of manual work and probably $1200+.. but you can make it cheaper depending on what brands you choose to use.
First off... NEW HEADUNIT. I have a Pioneer DEH P6000UB. It come with a USB port you can located anywhere you want, and when you plug an iPod into it, the headunit can control it. (very convenient and easier to use than other units like kenwood or alpine)
These you can get for under $200
-Note: In order to get an aftermarket unit, the trim piece with new HVAC controls will set you back around $200 as well.
Run 3 sets of RCAs to the trunk for Sub, front, and rear speakers.
Run wire from the trunk to behind the unit for 4 speakers. This way you can have a 4-way amp in the trunk, and power the 4 interior speakers via the harness behind the head unit. (easiest way to do it without relocating or running a ton of wire)
-This isn't very costly, just cost of the wire (sounds like you already have power, ground, and remote wire ran)
I recommend alpine type R components for the front, and type r coaxials for the rear.
~$125 for the components
~$70 for the coaxials
Use a cheaper 4 channel amp around 800w to run the interior speakers. I got a pioneer on eBay for
~$70
Buy a nicer 1000w monoblock amp for your subwoofer
-I paid $175 for a rockford at best buuy.
Its best to keep this amp separate from your other speakers.
And as far as the sub... thats your choice really. I had an audiobahn 10" 1800w woofer in a custom vented box. It had the volume of 2 12's. Less space and higher quality for the win!
Hope my opinions helped!
**NOTE: I base my prices on what I paid and how cheap you can find things on eBay, craigslist, and/or Amazon, etc....
MY suggestion will cost you a good amount of manual work and probably $1200+.. but you can make it cheaper depending on what brands you choose to use.
First off... NEW HEADUNIT. I have a Pioneer DEH P6000UB. It come with a USB port you can located anywhere you want, and when you plug an iPod into it, the headunit can control it. (very convenient and easier to use than other units like kenwood or alpine)
These you can get for under $200
-Note: In order to get an aftermarket unit, the trim piece with new HVAC controls will set you back around $200 as well.
Run 3 sets of RCAs to the trunk for Sub, front, and rear speakers.
Run wire from the trunk to behind the unit for 4 speakers. This way you can have a 4-way amp in the trunk, and power the 4 interior speakers via the harness behind the head unit. (easiest way to do it without relocating or running a ton of wire)
-This isn't very costly, just cost of the wire (sounds like you already have power, ground, and remote wire ran)
I recommend alpine type R components for the front, and type r coaxials for the rear.
~$125 for the components
~$70 for the coaxials
Use a cheaper 4 channel amp around 800w to run the interior speakers. I got a pioneer on eBay for
~$70
Buy a nicer 1000w monoblock amp for your subwoofer
-I paid $175 for a rockford at best buuy.
Its best to keep this amp separate from your other speakers.
And as far as the sub... thats your choice really. I had an audiobahn 10" 1800w woofer in a custom vented box. It had the volume of 2 12's. Less space and higher quality for the win!
Hope my opinions helped!
**NOTE: I base my prices on what I paid and how cheap you can find things on eBay, craigslist, and/or Amazon, etc....
I would get the JDM aftermarket kit for the G, but all the parts will cost 350 or so.
The HU, I would go Pioneer, kenwood or alpine. The subs, not audiobahn for sound quality.. Maybe rockford, or there are some excellent subs available online..most at your local BB are crap.
I would run components up front (CDT(preferred), mb quart, rainbow(if you really want to spend some money), skip running speakers in the rear doors..
If you get 200watts RMS up front, per side, you will never again know why you used to have rear door speakers.
A mono D block amp is a pretty good and cheap alternative to running a class AB amp for subs and you would notice little if any increased distortion with the D block. Plus it draws way less current.
Obviously in this scenario you only need 2 pairs of rca cables to the trunk. Plus you will need a 4ga wire kit.. In fact, you can get an excellent kit from walmart that has 2 pairs of rca cables, 4ga wire, the remote wire and the fuse holder... They used to have it anyway..
Yeah, thats what i used to hear. I just used to use the cl61a components. With lots of power to them, the midbass was amazing... Proper door spacers and deadening helped to I'm sure.




