G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Look at these repairs! Unbelievable...

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  #31  
Old 02-23-2010, 02:05 AM
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thats rediculous. i wish you were closer to me. i would do all of that for you for a grand of labor and you buy parts.
 
  #32  
Old 02-23-2010, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by azt108
+1 on keeping the car. I'm not ready to finance a car. My car has 90k and if suspension is it's only problems then that's awesome. The things that the dealer mentioned are to make the car a 10/10. Put it this way, I got new wipers rain-x which were close to $40, and they are telling me I should replace them. Really, wipers? I basically brought the car in to get a professional diagnostic and fix the things myself. I did ask for trade-in value, though I won't be trading it in. Would be nice keeping this '09 G37X loaner though!!!!
well if you can do most of it yourself, then definitely keep it. I can certainly justify spending an extra $3-$4k on te repairs.

however, keep in mind that since you are at only 90k miles, there could be other more expensive repairs later down the line.
 
  #33  
Old 02-23-2010, 08:18 AM
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Damn dealers are such thives, I feel bad for the people that get rape everytime they go there.
 
  #34  
Old 02-23-2010, 09:24 AM
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^+1 I always think about the people who aren't physically able, or the people without the tools, or the people who plain out just don't do research. Actually no, I don't feel bad for the people who don't do the researhc.
 
  #35  
Old 02-23-2010, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by RedG
Damn dealers are such thives, I feel bad for the people that get rape everytime they go there.
I don't feel bad for them because there are so many other options. It doesn't even matter if you're not mechanically inclined, anybody can change fluids, brakes, etc. Even if money was no issue, I would rather do it myself so I knew it was being done correctly. The only time the dealership touches my car is for warranty work and that's only because it's free.
 
  #36  
Old 02-23-2010, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by azt108
^+1 I always think about the people who aren't physically able, or the people without the tools, or the people who plain out just don't do research. Actually no, I don't feel bad for the people who don't do the researhc.
True, if you aren't physically able to do it then I would understand taking it somewhere. Even so, take it to a local mechanic and pay half the labor charges.
 
  #37  
Old 02-23-2010, 10:27 AM
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Just keep in mind most shops, including Nissan/Infiniti shops, go by book time. If the book says the job will take 2 hours, then that's what they'll charge, whether it takes 1 hour or 4 hours. In most cases, the technician can do the job in 50% to 70% of book time. That's where they really make their money. The big difference in overall costs comes from the parts. The dealerships are basically free to set their own price.

A great example is my friend's 2000 Maxima I've been working on. The coil packs on that year Maxima are notorious for flaking out. At the local dealership, the cost to install one coil pack is $190. The part is $110 and labor is $80. Multiply that times 6 and the price is $1,140. I told him to order the coil packs online for $85 ea. and then I'd install them. Last night I did all 6 coil packs in 20 minutes. The front 3 took all of 5 minutes. Sometimes I seriously wonder where the "book" comes up with it's numbers. The book time to change rotors and pads on a G35 sedan is something like 2 hours. Even including jacking up the car, I can swap everything in about 45 minutes.
 
  #38  
Old 02-23-2010, 11:57 AM
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Yeah I don't think is bad that if you can't do it to take it to a mechanic you know, but the Dealer prices are ridiculous and that's why is a rape. Like the other member said my G only touches the dealer for warranty and I make sure to stay on watch, cuz I don't trust them. The rest of the time is just me and my tools.
 
  #39  
Old 02-23-2010, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by azt108
Thank you very much Dave!

I'm not lowered and I got an alignment in December. It's under warranty for 6 months, so I can get that done for free after I replace my suspension components.

The brake job is much cheaper than even you quoted!


MYNISMO.COM
NISSAN OEM Front Brake Pads: 2003-2005 INFINITI G35 $48.00
NISSAN OEM Front Brake Rotors: 2003-2005 INFINITI G35 $83.40

I have no idea about the steering rack, but I'll be sure to research and check it out for myself.

I hit the rods with PB Blaster. My rear wheel hub bearing definitely needs to be replaced so I can do both with a socket set so long as I purchase the assembly which includes the bearing and the hub already bolted on as one piece. Thats around $120.

The rear axle boot is around $15, but what is the fluid inside that I would have to replace? Is it just grease? I could also hit the drive axle click problem all at once! Very exciting.

Thanks again Dave.
It seems the list of things they wrote down are merely suggestions to get fixed such as the blades and the alignment. They simply look at the mileage on the car and compare it to a list of things that normally get taken care of at that mileage range. If you just got aligned a couple months ago and it's not tracking bad, leave it be. If that click is coming from the same axle as the split boot, your joint is shot already. So replacing the boot and re-greasing it will solve nothing really. Look into a new axle shaft. They come with a new boot and properly greased up internally. Might cost a bit more, but then you don't have to sweat when the joint is gonna go **** up.
 
  #40  
Old 02-23-2010, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveB
...Sometimes I seriously wonder where the "book" comes up with it's numbers....
^+1,000,000

Me and a friend replaced the timing belt on his Subaru in about 5 man-hours (2 of us X 2.5 hr)
The dealership quoted the job at 5 hr.
Neither of us had ever changed the timing belt on any Subaru, we did it in a shed with someone else's tools (as opposed to a shop where you have everything you need and know where it is)
And we both said we could probably cut the time we spent almost in half, if we weren't screwing around joking the entire time.
Where in the world the book got that 5 hour time frame completely escapes me.
 
  #41  
Old 02-23-2010, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by GAU-8
Look into a new axle shaft. They come with a new boot and properly greased up internally. Might cost a bit more, but then you don't have to sweat when the joint is gonna go **** up.
That's an excellent idea, Thanks GAU. Just to add, the axle click is a common problem. The drive axle just needs to be regreased. But, I'm still looking into buying the whole axle and replacing. Thanks again.
 
  #42  
Old 02-24-2010, 02:37 AM
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The axle click might be a common issue, but you stated you have a blown boot. So is the click coming from this common issue or is it the joint failing because it has no grease remaining from the blown boot. Not worth it to wait and see. I would choose to replace the shaft just from that question alone. Good luck getting all this repaired. In the long run, you'll have learned a few things about your car once you tackle some of this.
 
  #43  
Old 02-25-2010, 12:43 PM
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has anyone else taken advantage of the lifetime alignment service from bridgestone/firestone shops? It cost me $130 for it and I get my car aligned twice a year when putting on and taking off the snows. you can take the car in every single day to be aligned if you want no questions asked.

good luck with the repairs sir, should be fun!
 
  #44  
Old 02-25-2010, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by myC17isfaster
has anyone else taken advantage of the lifetime alignment service from bridgestone/firestone shops? It cost me $130 for it and I get my car aligned twice a year when putting on and taking off the snows. you can take the car in every single day to be aligned if you want no questions asked.

good luck with the repairs sir, should be fun!
are you kidding me??
 
  #45  
Old 02-25-2010, 12:55 PM
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I did a quick search online, couldn't find much info. Do you have a link for the details?
 


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