If im trying to Get 300 hp what would u do
#49
If your looking for max HP, I'd skip out on the HR y-pipe and get the Motordyne XYZ. It's a prove y-pipe. The merge is placed at the prime location to increase scavenging to maximize hp.
Test pipes. Of all the mods I have done, test pipes gave me the best seat of the pants feel. Proven mod that removes one of the most restrictive part of the exhaust system. With that said, if you get test pipes and get the HR y-pipe, the piping diameter may not match causing more resistance. On most test pipes, the outer diameter is 2.5". It won't match the HR y-pipe (only a 2" inlet?). On most aftermarket y-pipes, the inlet diameter is usually 2.5". They match! Hey! Just about any test pipe will do with the right diameter or you can also look into the Motordyne ART pipes for max low end power. Another PROVEN mod.
Exhaust. You will need a free flowing exhaust. Mandrel bends with a 3" single or 2.5" dual. For max power, I'd stay away from chambered mufflers.
Plenum Spacer. 5/16 or 1/2". Search the forums. There's a lot of info and is one of the most popular power mods.
MREV2. Depending on if you have a REVUP or Non REVUP. Proven power on REVUP engines with spacer.
Headers. Lot's of debate on the cost per gain (shorties). Install is a PIA or pay a lot in labor. From what I've read, long tubes have given good results, but need more conclusive independent evidence. Megan long tubes are cheap, but still have yet to see anyone who have reported cracked Megan long tubes. There is also SG long tubes, but they cost a fortune.
Tune. Now that you have test pipes and or HFC's, a tune is a must. Most likely, your a/f ratio is out of whack due to the test pipes. Osiris gave me great results. Here's my tune below. I am on stock headers and stock cams. Yes the dyno reads high. Forget the peak numbers and look at the gains. Look at the TQ gains at around 2800 rpm's and at 4300 rpm's. As for HP, my biggest gain is around 5200-5300 rpm's. I could probably squeeze out a more hp with a better exhaust and Motordyne ART pipes. I have a cheap $250 ebay exhaust with a Magnaflow x-pipe.
A/f ratio on right. Before and after.
Intake. Use the REVUP airbox with a high flow filter and z-tube. Don't bother with aftermarket intakes for power. Much debate on it. Just search the forums on intakes. A $500 titanium tube isn't going to gain power over the OEM Z-tube.
Above is are the basic mods most do N/A. Lot's more you can do, but this is the most common and popular mods.
So, now your stuck at around 270-290 whp on a dynojet depending on your engine. Now what? Just boost it.
Test pipes. Of all the mods I have done, test pipes gave me the best seat of the pants feel. Proven mod that removes one of the most restrictive part of the exhaust system. With that said, if you get test pipes and get the HR y-pipe, the piping diameter may not match causing more resistance. On most test pipes, the outer diameter is 2.5". It won't match the HR y-pipe (only a 2" inlet?). On most aftermarket y-pipes, the inlet diameter is usually 2.5". They match! Hey! Just about any test pipe will do with the right diameter or you can also look into the Motordyne ART pipes for max low end power. Another PROVEN mod.
Exhaust. You will need a free flowing exhaust. Mandrel bends with a 3" single or 2.5" dual. For max power, I'd stay away from chambered mufflers.
Plenum Spacer. 5/16 or 1/2". Search the forums. There's a lot of info and is one of the most popular power mods.
MREV2. Depending on if you have a REVUP or Non REVUP. Proven power on REVUP engines with spacer.
Headers. Lot's of debate on the cost per gain (shorties). Install is a PIA or pay a lot in labor. From what I've read, long tubes have given good results, but need more conclusive independent evidence. Megan long tubes are cheap, but still have yet to see anyone who have reported cracked Megan long tubes. There is also SG long tubes, but they cost a fortune.
Tune. Now that you have test pipes and or HFC's, a tune is a must. Most likely, your a/f ratio is out of whack due to the test pipes. Osiris gave me great results. Here's my tune below. I am on stock headers and stock cams. Yes the dyno reads high. Forget the peak numbers and look at the gains. Look at the TQ gains at around 2800 rpm's and at 4300 rpm's. As for HP, my biggest gain is around 5200-5300 rpm's. I could probably squeeze out a more hp with a better exhaust and Motordyne ART pipes. I have a cheap $250 ebay exhaust with a Magnaflow x-pipe.
A/f ratio on right. Before and after.
Intake. Use the REVUP airbox with a high flow filter and z-tube. Don't bother with aftermarket intakes for power. Much debate on it. Just search the forums on intakes. A $500 titanium tube isn't going to gain power over the OEM Z-tube.
Above is are the basic mods most do N/A. Lot's more you can do, but this is the most common and popular mods.
So, now your stuck at around 270-290 whp on a dynojet depending on your engine. Now what? Just boost it.
#51
#52
#55
Registered User
iTrader: (13)
okay i feel bad,
no ur not going to get 300 whp for a 1000.
if u want 300 whp plus u need
i/h/e/cams/port/pistons/bigger displacment/spacer/ test pipes/tune
every NA thing you can do.
go check my350z someone is making about 320 whp with all of that, and a few things i left out like bigget throttle body and intake.
no ur not going to get 300 whp for a 1000.
if u want 300 whp plus u need
i/h/e/cams/port/pistons/bigger displacment/spacer/ test pipes/tune
every NA thing you can do.
go check my350z someone is making about 320 whp with all of that, and a few things i left out like bigget throttle body and intake.
#58
Registered User
iTrader: (13)
how about an electric super charger?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=160441643045
I think thats even cheaper
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=160441643045
I think thats even cheaper