PSA: Powersteering Fluid
#16
*raises hand*......never replaced powersteering on ANY vehicle he's owned inclunding cars that have seen track/strip. My 03 G with 89K miles has the original powersteering fluid (same with coolant, brake fluid). I guess I'll swap out the fluid this weekend while I'm replacing a seal on my wife's 98 Legacy powersteering reservoir.
FYI - Powersteering fluid is just hydraulic fluid, isn't under any major heat, and shouldn't really replacement unless it's contaminated. The contaminants such as rust, debris for seals breaking down, etc. tend to cause powersteering problems and can effect fluid color. I've checked my fluid quite a few times over the years and it's still deep red. If it's easy to replace and you plan on keeping the car a while, it can't hurt. I don't see how replacing the fluid can loosen up the steering and make it more direct though. My steering feels just as it did when I bought the car 5.5 years ago. I do notice it loosen up, but only when I replace my 1" wider 18s with the OEM narrow 17s.
FYI - Powersteering fluid is just hydraulic fluid, isn't under any major heat, and shouldn't really replacement unless it's contaminated. The contaminants such as rust, debris for seals breaking down, etc. tend to cause powersteering problems and can effect fluid color. I've checked my fluid quite a few times over the years and it's still deep red. If it's easy to replace and you plan on keeping the car a while, it can't hurt. I don't see how replacing the fluid can loosen up the steering and make it more direct though. My steering feels just as it did when I bought the car 5.5 years ago. I do notice it loosen up, but only when I replace my 1" wider 18s with the OEM narrow 17s.
Last edited by DaveB; 06-28-2010 at 01:13 AM.
#19
also OEM fluid isnt red, at least mine wasn't.
#20
It's very common for the steering to get "lighter." This is an artifact of replacing the old worn out fluid with fresh fluid. The new fluid just lubricates better so there is less resistance in the PS system and it works better.
#21
I don't really agree. Hydraulic fluid doesn't "wear out", especially when it's not under any major pressure or heat. It's not like motor oil. Many manufactuers specifically note that powersteering fluid doesn't need to be replaced unless there's a problem that allows the fluid to become contaminated.
#22
#23
The OEM fluid should be red when you buy it because it's Dextron ATF (ie automatic transmission fluid) which is red by nature. Over time, it does darken a bit, but should still have a reddish tint when placed on a peice of white paper. If it's black, then you've got some problems.
#24
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
The OEM fluid should be red when you buy it because it's Dextron ATF (ie automatic transmission fluid) which is red by nature. Over time, it does darken a bit, but should still have a reddish tint when placed on a peice of white paper. If it's black, then you've got some problems.
Now, the EASIEST way to drain and fill the power steering without the need to replace it 2-3 or even 4 times.
LIFT THE CAR
remove the rear cover by the transmission
remove the hose that goes to the rack and pinion (low pressure hose)
drain ALL of the fluid, if you'd like turn on the car for a few seconds (3 or 4 seconds)
install hose/clamp
install cover
refill reservoir
turn on car, turn the wheel a few times, re-check the levels
Done.
This is the way I have done it 3 times already, and it's the way the dealership does it.
#26
Yea, I don't know how it turned black, but it seems normal since my dads LS430 was also black he is a 75k and replaced it with some fresh fluid.
AltimanGxe - your way might seem simple to you but in retrospect, jacking the car removing panels undoing hoses is too much for a lot of people.
Sucking out the Fluid with a 3 bucks of supplies and then filling it up a couple times with 8 bucks a quart for some synthetic ATF and replacing it to the correct level is much easier imo. But your way makes sure everything is changed with fresh fluid.
either or both are good and should be looked at, as I also had the impression you did not have to change it until 100k
AltimanGxe - your way might seem simple to you but in retrospect, jacking the car removing panels undoing hoses is too much for a lot of people.
Sucking out the Fluid with a 3 bucks of supplies and then filling it up a couple times with 8 bucks a quart for some synthetic ATF and replacing it to the correct level is much easier imo. But your way makes sure everything is changed with fresh fluid.
either or both are good and should be looked at, as I also had the impression you did not have to change it until 100k
#27
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Yea, I don't know how it turned black, but it seems normal since my dads LS430 was also black he is a 75k and replaced it with some fresh fluid.
AltimanGxe - your way might seem simple to you but in retrospect, jacking the car removing panels undoing hoses is too much for a lot of people.
Sucking out the Fluid with a 3 bucks of supplies and then filling it up a couple times with 8 bucks a quart for some synthetic ATF and replacing it to the correct level is much easier imo. But your way makes sure everything is changed with fresh fluid.
either or both are good and should be looked at, as I also had the impression you did not have to change it until 100k
AltimanGxe - your way might seem simple to you but in retrospect, jacking the car removing panels undoing hoses is too much for a lot of people.
Sucking out the Fluid with a 3 bucks of supplies and then filling it up a couple times with 8 bucks a quart for some synthetic ATF and replacing it to the correct level is much easier imo. But your way makes sure everything is changed with fresh fluid.
either or both are good and should be looked at, as I also had the impression you did not have to change it until 100k
it's 5 10MM bolts, 1 squeeze clamp (which you can squeeze down with your hands (if your fingers are rugged enough lol) and viola!
But yes if you do not have any of those tools, the siphon is definetly the way to go.
#30
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
If you run it dry it will eventually overheat and cause metal to metal contact thus the problems will occur.
But a short burst should not harm anything...
It's like parking your car for a year then out of the blue turning it on. The first few seconds your engine will run dry, but eventually it will get oil, in that few seconds you will not harm the engine.