Do these cracks on the belt require immediate attention?
They are 6-rib serpentine belts. V belts have pulleys that look like v and have a single ribbed v shaped belt. Usually older engines have them.
I have way more cracks than you do. You pic looks fine. If the flat side was cracking or the ends starting to fray or chunks missing then I'd suggest to replace.
The ac is the long belt on the drivers side of the bay. It Only does the ac. The other one does the rest.
The belt in the pic above looks fine. Let it ride.
I have way more cracks than you do. You pic looks fine. If the flat side was cracking or the ends starting to fray or chunks missing then I'd suggest to replace.
The ac is the long belt on the drivers side of the bay. It Only does the ac. The other one does the rest.
The belt in the pic above looks fine. Let it ride.
They are 6-rib serpentine belts. V belts have pulleys that look like v and have a single ribbed v shaped belt. Usually older engines have them.
I have way more cracks than you do. You pic looks fine. If the flat side was cracking or the ends starting to fray or chunks missing then I'd suggest to replace.
The ac is the long belt on the drivers side of the bay. It Only does the ac. The other one does the rest.
The belt in the pic above looks fine. Let it ride.
I have way more cracks than you do. You pic looks fine. If the flat side was cracking or the ends starting to fray or chunks missing then I'd suggest to replace.
The ac is the long belt on the drivers side of the bay. It Only does the ac. The other one does the rest.
The belt in the pic above looks fine. Let it ride.
I guess I'll pop the hood every now and then to monitor it.
Just changed my belts today and it really isn't very difficult. Those don't look too bad though. Also, I would go with OEM just because I've read lots of stories about aftermarket belts squeaking on these cars for no apparent reason.
As far as checking tension goes, you just have to use trial and error unless you have a tension gauge. I don't have one, so I basically just tightened them down until I could only twist the belt about 45 degrees or so. It's not an exact science, but they should be pretty tight. Also, you are supposed to torque the pulleys back down to 26 ft/lbs (I think) so that's when a torque wrench would come in handy. I just did it by feel and it seems to be alright for now.
As far as checking tension goes, you just have to use trial and error unless you have a tension gauge. I don't have one, so I basically just tightened them down until I could only twist the belt about 45 degrees or so. It's not an exact science, but they should be pretty tight. Also, you are supposed to torque the pulleys back down to 26 ft/lbs (I think) so that's when a torque wrench would come in handy. I just did it by feel and it seems to be alright for now.
Just changed my belts today and it really isn't very difficult. Those don't look too bad though. Also, I would go with OEM just because I've read lots of stories about aftermarket belts squeaking on these cars for no apparent reason.
As far as checking tension goes, you just have to use trial and error unless you have a tension gauge. I don't have one, so I basically just tightened them down until I could only twist the belt about 45 degrees or so. It's not an exact science, but they should be pretty tight. Also, you are supposed to torque the pulleys back down to 26 ft/lbs (I think) so that's when a torque wrench would come in handy. I just did it by feel and it seems to be alright for now.
As far as checking tension goes, you just have to use trial and error unless you have a tension gauge. I don't have one, so I basically just tightened them down until I could only twist the belt about 45 degrees or so. It's not an exact science, but they should be pretty tight. Also, you are supposed to torque the pulleys back down to 26 ft/lbs (I think) so that's when a torque wrench would come in handy. I just did it by feel and it seems to be alright for now.
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