Why does the manufacturer state that synthetic oil should not be used in the 2006 g35
#32
11-04-2010, 06:44 PM
#33
11-04-2010, 07:04 PM
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#34
11-04-2010, 07:05 PM
I've already seen that link.
But at the same time, I've used lucas in the motor oil on one of my Trans-Ams before, and it didn't turn frothy in the least. I checked it right after running the engine for a while too, so it's not like it settled out.
My cousin also ran lucas in his truck's automatic transmission, and again, checking the fluid right after driving, with the truck running in park, zero froth.
IDK, like I said, I don't have any reason to put anything 'extra' in the oil that's outside the engine's design spec. But at the same time, I have to kindof question the test they did.
But at the same time, I've used lucas in the motor oil on one of my Trans-Ams before, and it didn't turn frothy in the least. I checked it right after running the engine for a while too, so it's not like it settled out.
My cousin also ran lucas in his truck's automatic transmission, and again, checking the fluid right after driving, with the truck running in park, zero froth.
IDK, like I said, I don't have any reason to put anything 'extra' in the oil that's outside the engine's design spec. But at the same time, I have to kindof question the test they did.
But yea Oil is formulated to do its job adding other shiz to it, ruins it.
#35
11-04-2010, 07:13 PM
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Over maintaining is hardly a waste of money. It gives you that calm that your car is well taken care of. Doing the bare minimum for anything is never good. I'd rather be on the safe side and "over maintain" than to spare a couple bucks here and there on some fluid changes. In my opinion, the only "over maintenance" that you could do is going to the stealership for the 60k/75k/90k etc. maintenances. Otherwise, I get the top of the line oils and gas because the monetary difference isn't that big but the confidence of knowing your car is taken care of is definitely worth it.
#36
11-04-2010, 07:17 PM
#37
11-04-2010, 07:40 PM
With me, I prefer to stick with what they car comes with from the factory. If it comes with synthetic fill, I stick to that. If it comes conventional fill, I stick with that.
I just hate when people think putting synthetic fluids in, or running 93 octane gas all the time when not required means you take care of your car or something. Yes...because you out 93 octane in your geo metro, you are pampering your vehicle...meanwhile your auto tranny is still on it's original fluid at 130k miles.
Nothing wrong with synthetic fluids though. You won't ever hear me say they are bad. But I religiously run castrol gtx conventional with a purolator oil filter and change the oil around 3500-4000 miles....which is once a month for me.
Everything else in my car is mobil 1 synthetic (matic s in trans)
Ive run gtx in my mustang for the last 15 years on the same schedule. When I took the engine out at 100k miles, the cylinder walls still had the factory crosshatching on the wall and the engine looked great. All the evidence I needed.
I just hate when people think putting synthetic fluids in, or running 93 octane gas all the time when not required means you take care of your car or something. Yes...because you out 93 octane in your geo metro, you are pampering your vehicle...meanwhile your auto tranny is still on it's original fluid at 130k miles.
Nothing wrong with synthetic fluids though. You won't ever hear me say they are bad. But I religiously run castrol gtx conventional with a purolator oil filter and change the oil around 3500-4000 miles....which is once a month for me.
Everything else in my car is mobil 1 synthetic (matic s in trans)
Ive run gtx in my mustang for the last 15 years on the same schedule. When I took the engine out at 100k miles, the cylinder walls still had the factory crosshatching on the wall and the engine looked great. All the evidence I needed.
#38
11-04-2010, 10:21 PM
Join Date: Apr 2009
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BITOG is a pretty legit source, But how did you check if it was frothy? Dipstick? It says that the Lucus oil stuff lets air get stuck inside the oil, the engine is pretty much sealed from letting air in right? But at the same time the air trapped in the engine when doing a oil change will mix more with the oil with the additive then the oil alone?
But yea Oil is formulated to do its job adding other shiz to it, ruins it.
But yea Oil is formulated to do its job adding other shiz to it, ruins it.
I'm also not sure how fast they were turning those gears.
If they were spinning them really fast (like 18,000 rpm or something) then that's not nearly an accurate representation of conditions in a transmission or engine.
Again, I'm not saying that was the case, or defending additives. I've just never seen anything in my own personal experience that would validate their results.
#39
11-04-2010, 10:32 PM
I use the German castrol synthetic and change every 5000 km. It also depends what you want from the car and how you drive. Some cars have a rev counter that determines the oil change interval. My 09 c300 gets an oil change every 20,000 or 25,000 km. Can't remember. So it depends on the car too.
#41
11-05-2010, 04:03 PM
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I've been using the Mobil 1 5W/40 TurboDiesel Truck oil at 15K mile intervals for years. Engine uses about a qt every 5K miles and has since new. Has about 143K on it now, still pulls as strong as day 1. Maybe stronger. All Blackstone oil analysis says 15K is no problem with vis, TBN, and insolubles all in range.
Mind you I have a remote mount filter that has 3.5X the filtering area of the tiny teacup OEM filter. I wouldn't dream of going 15K miles on that POS. The filter is the weak link, not the oil (assuming you are using a top grade/shear stable synth).
Mind you I have a remote mount filter that has 3.5X the filtering area of the tiny teacup OEM filter. I wouldn't dream of going 15K miles on that POS. The filter is the weak link, not the oil (assuming you are using a top grade/shear stable synth).
#45
11-06-2010, 02:00 AM