New Car
Oh wait, you were being serious..
Yeah, thats pretty much where I'm at.. I still wonder if I should have spent the time on it, but I had all my old amps and speakers, so I figured what the hell. I definitely like the music now though and my drive time is my relaxing time, so thats why I chose to do it... but yeah, whenever I upgrade to a new g with the infiniti studio on wheels, there's no way I'll waste the time and energy on this again
What do you mean? lol Yea I know what you mean about our AC and fans being loud. That's why I turn off the AC where its a bit more quieter. Always thought of putting aftermarket fans like the flex a lite fans or something.Maybe he can't afford an 05+, he's 17, or maybe his parents don't want to buy him a newer model. Either way, the 05+ power debate is... a debate. I think mine made more than 260hp stock, but meh. I walked an 06 5AT sedan pretty hard with a spacer and cat-back (have it on video).
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 765
Likes: 39
From: Western Colorado
OB '04 Coupe Premium w/Performance Wheel & Tire
Last edited by re-crue13; Nov 6, 2010 at 10:40 AM.
I love a crisp sounding system, and my non Bose was definitely not that, so i did the entire thing and it sounds great, but on my next car, I am just getting the Bose Studio on Wheels and just leaving it. They improved that system IMMENSELY over the Bose in our model Gs, so there really isn't much to change.
@ tsoderstrum and NFSP. I said $1000 without including labor. Just for all the parts. Phoenix gold rsd65cs componets are very good and cost around $80. Used high quality subs with amp are very easy to find barely used on craigslist. Farenheit makes great headunits I got mine for $220 touchscreen brand new. No problems so far. Soundstream 4 channel amps are around $150. Great amps and the metra kit gets the job done and is very affordable
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 765
Likes: 39
From: Western Colorado
OB '04 Coupe Premium w/Performance Wheel & Tire
Mine is not very loud, I got to crank it halfway to be able to hear it cruising 65 on the highway. Only a quarter of the way up when I'm in the city, so I definitely I want something nicer. The sub is one thing that I don't care for, the reason I'm installing one is to fill in that hole that's under the rear deck cover.
Oh jeeze...

With respect BlkSedan while I agree you could troll ebay for those prices I certainly would not put any of those parts in my car. The Bose system is not very good but I would rather have that than the system you just described. My friend and I did a system in his IS300 last year and it wasn't too fancy. Infiniti Referance for everything except the head unit which is middle of the road pricing at best. Componant fronts, 6x9 rears, 2 10" subs, 300 watt 4ch, 400 watt 2 ch amps. Not uncluding wire or harness, install kit, labor (which I provided free), or headunit, we were at a little over $950.

@ tsoderstrum and NFSP. I said $1000 without including labor. Just for all the parts. Phoenix gold rsd65cs componets are very good and cost around $80. Used high quality subs with amp are very easy to find barely used on craigslist. Farenheit makes great headunits I got mine for $220 touchscreen brand new. No problems so far. Soundstream 4 channel amps are around $150. Great amps and the metra kit gets the job done and is very affordable
Honestly, best "bang for your buck" speakers I've ever heard were Hertz lower end components. Obnoxiously orange, but they sound great when powered correctly. Which brings me to my next point. A $20 speaker with a $2000 amp will sound better than a $2000 speaker with a $20 amp. Clean power is what provides clean sound. Truly, all a speaker is doing is turning electronic power into vibration that is perceived as audio. So, if you're amplifier is sending muddied power, guess what you're going to hear?
Me-->

<--youYou will easily spend $2-3k on a "decent" audio system, if you have good ears. If you just want something that sounds "okay", you'll probably get away cheap.
Double din kit (not the POS metra kit): $500
Respectable double din headunit: $800-2000
---Respectable Single Din headunit: $300-2000 (Clarions dead head's
)Respectable 2-way components: $200-2000
---Respectable 3-way components: $400+
Respectable subwoofer: $150-800
Subwoofer enclosure ("Box"): $60-80 premade, $150+ custom
Respectable 2ch amp (4ch if you want to run active crossovers): $400-????
Respectable mono amp: $300-????
---(the ??? is there because depending on your desired power level, you could spend a small fortune in this department)
Power and Signal cables: $80-200 depending on how you're transferring signal
Installation: $$$++ depends on the type of work you want done.
So, on the low side that puts you at $2600. Wanna try again at the whole "under $1000" thing? Oh, my quote doesn't include labor either
.I had almost $8k into my tC when I finished it. That's retail cost on all of the equipment, plus what we would have charged as labor fees had it been a customer's car. The car was loud, but it was build for SQL, not pure SPL. The car was clear for a good 70 yards. My point here is, building a LOUD car is one thing, building one that you can still hear crisply from more than 10ft is another thing. Bass that overpowers everything else in the system is just a waste...
Also, I won't buy just anything because it's a certain name brand. If it's crap, it's crap, I don't care what brand you stick on it!
I listen very carefully to speakers on a good amp with a variety of music before I buy them
I think everyone else has laughed enough for me...

I wouldn't put a $220 single din radio in any vehicle, let alone a $220 touchscreen unit. Phoenix Gold used to be a reputable company, now they're JUNK. Soundstream is the same way.
Honestly, best "bang for your buck" speakers I've ever heard were Hertz lower end components. Obnoxiously orange, but they sound great when powered correctly. Which brings me to my next point. A $20 speaker with a $2000 amp will sound better than a $2000 speaker with a $20 amp. Clean power is what provides clean sound. Truly, all a speaker is doing is turning electronic power into vibration that is perceived as audio. So, if you're amplifier is sending muddied power, guess what you're going to hear?
Sometimes this isn't always the best logic. There are a lot of lesser known brands out there that perform PHENOMENALLY. Treo is one of them that I truly enjoy listening to, along with companies like DynAudio and Hertz.
Just stop. Please. I feel like this is where this conversation will go:
Me-->
<--you
You will easily spend $2-3k on a "decent" audio system, if you have good ears. If you just want something that sounds "okay", you'll probably get away cheap.
Double din kit (not the POS metra kit): $500
Respectable double din headunit: $800-2000
---Respectable Single Din headunit: $300-2000 (Clarions dead head's
)
Respectable 2-way components: $200-2000
---Respectable 3-way components: $400+
Respectable subwoofer: $150-800
Subwoofer enclosure ("Box"): $60-80 premade, $150+ custom
Respectable 2ch amp (4ch if you want to run active crossovers): $400-????
Respectable mono amp: $300-????
---(the ??? is there because depending on your desired power level, you could spend a small fortune in this department)
Power and Signal cables: $80-200 depending on how you're transferring signal
Installation: $$$++ depends on the type of work you want done.
So, on the low side that puts you at $2600. Wanna try again at the whole "under $1000" thing? Oh, my quote doesn't include labor either
.
I had almost $8k into my tC when I finished it. That's retail cost on all of the equipment, plus what we would have charged as labor fees had it been a customer's car. The car was loud, but it was build for SQL, not pure SPL. The car was clear for a good 70 yards. My point here is, building a LOUD car is one thing, building one that you can still hear crisply from more than 10ft is another thing. Bass that overpowers everything else in the system is just a waste...


I wouldn't put a $220 single din radio in any vehicle, let alone a $220 touchscreen unit. Phoenix Gold used to be a reputable company, now they're JUNK. Soundstream is the same way.
Honestly, best "bang for your buck" speakers I've ever heard were Hertz lower end components. Obnoxiously orange, but they sound great when powered correctly. Which brings me to my next point. A $20 speaker with a $2000 amp will sound better than a $2000 speaker with a $20 amp. Clean power is what provides clean sound. Truly, all a speaker is doing is turning electronic power into vibration that is perceived as audio. So, if you're amplifier is sending muddied power, guess what you're going to hear?
Sometimes this isn't always the best logic. There are a lot of lesser known brands out there that perform PHENOMENALLY. Treo is one of them that I truly enjoy listening to, along with companies like DynAudio and Hertz.
Just stop. Please. I feel like this is where this conversation will go:
Me-->

<--youYou will easily spend $2-3k on a "decent" audio system, if you have good ears. If you just want something that sounds "okay", you'll probably get away cheap.
Double din kit (not the POS metra kit): $500
Respectable double din headunit: $800-2000
---Respectable Single Din headunit: $300-2000 (Clarions dead head's
)Respectable 2-way components: $200-2000
---Respectable 3-way components: $400+
Respectable subwoofer: $150-800
Subwoofer enclosure ("Box"): $60-80 premade, $150+ custom
Respectable 2ch amp (4ch if you want to run active crossovers): $400-????
Respectable mono amp: $300-????
---(the ??? is there because depending on your desired power level, you could spend a small fortune in this department)
Power and Signal cables: $80-200 depending on how you're transferring signal
Installation: $$$++ depends on the type of work you want done.
So, on the low side that puts you at $2600. Wanna try again at the whole "under $1000" thing? Oh, my quote doesn't include labor either
.I had almost $8k into my tC when I finished it. That's retail cost on all of the equipment, plus what we would have charged as labor fees had it been a customer's car. The car was loud, but it was build for SQL, not pure SPL. The car was clear for a good 70 yards. My point here is, building a LOUD car is one thing, building one that you can still hear crisply from more than 10ft is another thing. Bass that overpowers everything else in the system is just a waste...



)



