Okay so there is a 2004 g35 sedan on sale for 9,500 64k miles from a dealer. I am thinking of purchasing it but after reading reviews about the brakes & rotors being a problem i am having second thoughts. Is there a fix to this issue? or should I just forget the g35.

 

Get it. Thats not a bad price and the mileage seems pretty low.

 

Grab it. ... low mileage is a +++

 

get it , is it clean title and is it stick and is it X edition?

i just recently bought a g35 2004 ..
and i love every second of it

but just remeber is the car right for you?

maintnece cost
gas
and does it feel like the car for you

if it all checks out then go for it ..

 

It is auto transmission.

The only thing getting me is the brakes & rotors... Like I hear it needs to be changed a lot. That's ridiculous.. If there wasn't this problem i would be zooming in one by now...

So any suggestions/tips/hints on this problem while test driving or after purchase?

Thanks for quick response guys!

 

Dude, brakes are not a big deal to do yourself. The OEM pads make a lot of dust and wear out sort of quickly depending on how you drive. I am not sure if Infiniti has revised their OEM pieces to fix this problem, but I haven't had stock pads in a long time. You fix the "brake problem" by buying an aftermarket set of ceramic, or whatever, pads when it's time for a replacement.

Pads are the EASIEST thing to change yourself. If you need to have someone do it for you, make sure they machine your rotors, and you'll be good to go. My stock rotors lasted 50-60 hard HARD miles, and I replaced my pads once in that time span.

You can get an eBay set of slotted and drilled rotors for all four corners for about $200. Add $100 for pads, and you're set. Whatever you do, don't pay the dealer to change your brakes. $120/hr labor rate is not going to make anything there a steal.

Your worries about "brake problems" shouldn't push you away from this car. At least it's not a BMW with cooling system and rear subframe issues.

You will know it's really time to change your pads when the VDC, SLIP, and some other light all flash on as you brake hard. That means the pad thickness is so low the brake fluid level drops considerably when heavy pressure is applied to the brake. The pistons need more fluid to push out enough to clamp down on the rotor. I had this happen to me, and I realized it was just the pads.

 

^^ 03Base you deserve a big freaking hug! thanks dude! MWell guys I appreciate your help and words. I REALLY appreciate it.

 

No prob! I think you found a great deal.

When I replaced my pads and rotors I bought this kit off of eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Drill...ht_5305wt_1167


I bought this exact kit for $200 last Christmas, and now it's $179.xx. Hahah, talk about a deal. The guy was slow on his processing time, so he hooked me up with a free second set of F+R pads and overnight shipping. Great experience.

I've had this setup for a year, and I love it! It was a cheap solution to a potentially expensive problem. I had a rear caliper freeze up last Christmas, and I was quoted $660 from an Indie shop just for the rear brakes. I got two new/rebuilt rear calipers from NAPA, and the full pad/rotor combo off eBay and changed the brakes myself. My total cost was maybe $350. I wish I machined the rotors before I put them on, but that's a Thanksgiving project.

Also, make sure the rear diff. fluid has been changed at 30k, and your next change should've been at 60k. Make sure the tranny fluid has been flushed at least once, and if not do is ASAP. Finally, you should do spark plugs sometime soon. I know they say to keep em in until 100k, but I'm glad I changed mine out at around 75k miles. If you do change them, get Iridiums.

If you want, maybe peeps on the forum can compile a list of areas for you to ask the dealer when going over service history, etc.

I'll start:

-Transmission fluid change/flush? --> Should be done at 60k per service recommendations, I recommend more frequent changes, but that's just me.
-Rear diff. fluid change? --> Should be done every 30k according to the dealership
-Spark plugs? --> Due at 100k, but you should really do it at like 50-70k
-Brake pads/rotors --> OEM pads last like 15-30k depending on use
-Tires, how much thread is left? --> Should be at least 50-60% or else you better start negotiating, look for uneven tire wear
-Valve cover gaskets --> If they're leaking, you've got a $1000 problem, you check by making sure there is no oil in the spark plug holes
-Coolant --> When was it last replaced?
-Power Steering Fluid --> When was it last replaced?
-CD player, make sure it's not malfunctioning
-Make sure all recalls/etc. Have been done...

That should be a start!

 

Thanks will print out your checklists :-D anymore? All is welcomed. I plan on launching a full scale inspection war of this car before purchase lol.

 

I bought my car with 32k and the pads were fine

I drove it till it was at 60K then installed new pads only because I bought pads the year before and wanted to use them =)

the original pads and rotors still had some meat left

 

https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...-z-brakes.html

 

Why are valve cover gaskets a $1000 problem?

 

Brakes are the least of your concerns. I'd be more worried about the hvac board frying, wheel bearings, compression rods, window regulators, no 3rd brake light, axle click, rear windows creaking, valve gaskets leaking, oil consumption, rattles, cd player dying, and the other common issues that seem to plague these cars.

Just the other day, someone asked me if I would recommend they buy an 05-06 g35. They are not mechanical at all and would need to take the car to dealer for repairs. Based on that....I told them no.

 

In Feb I'll have had my G six years, and only had axle click - it was fixed at no charge by my dealer.

 

Brakes can be an issue on the pre=05s, but only if you're on them hard constantly. They do make a butt-ton of dust (pre-05), but that can be remedied with different pads.

Brakes really aren't an issue.