I think the 5 to 10 grounding kits Suck ***!!! I have the stillen grounding kit for my 2003.5 sedan and it does nothing IMO!!!!

 

They can in fact hurt if you have no idea what you are doing, something called Grounding loops I am not an EE so I cant just simply point out that X and X wires are creating the grounding loops, but most of the time grounding kits makers have no idea what they are doing and may create these grounding loops with out even knowing.


Yep, just by lightly sanding the connectors and body contact points can be beneficial.

 

I heard that stillen grounding kit wasn't that good.

 

Well yes, I wouldn't advocate putting more than necessary. I personally stick to 1 wire block to chassis and I have usually removed the oem ground.


Okay...I've spoke enough on this.

 

Well I am either making my own kit or buying yours. But if the best argument you can give is that 400 other people did it, I should too, I will prob just make one. Why is your kit better than one I can make? Why do I need 8-10 wires not just 2-3?

 

The point is that 400 people have bought it AND given positive reviews, i.e. there seems to be some benefit. FWIW you can even find some dyno numbers here

That's what guys like SxExCx, GordGee and Black Betty have taken the time to figure out, create a product, and market it. Why should they hand out that info for free?

I've also heard the Stillen kit doesn't do much if anything.

 

How in the world does a grounding kit give you 7-11hp?

 

^ I guess that's the 'snake oil' at work. I don't make any particular claims, and dyno charts are notoriously fraught with potential inconsistencies. I have one of Gord Gee's kits but I haven't installed it yet. Maybe it's time.

 

I don't buy the the horsepower increase. The purpose of a grounded wire is to supply current. I've used ground wires before, but not as most people here have bought/made one. Did it for car audio and THAT does work. Basically the engine bay is painted and what do you do when adding an amp to your car? You make sure the ground wire is mounted on the chassis where there is no paint. You want metal to metal contact for a better flow in current.

Many people upgrade their alternators to a higher output amperage when running several thousand watts of power, heck I did with my Accord. You're supposed to run engine block to chassis, battery negative to chassis, and battery positive to alternator positive. This just makes your electrical system more solid.

As for grounding kits for the G, I'm not going to comment much on it. I've stated my beliefs before, but you're not going to see any power gains at all. 7-11 hp is nonsense. If the purpose of grounding wires are to improve the electrical system, and you're "gaining" 7-11 hp, then something is wrong with the electrical system, probably weak transfer of current.

Also, there IS overkill and it IS unnecessary. Think about this. If you an amplifier that can provide 700w and requires 4 gauge wire, a 1/0 is not going to benefit it. The gauge of wires just determines the amount of electrical current it can carry. In this case, a 4 gauge is what is sufficient to the amount of current the amp can provide. Going with a 1/0 means it would allow it to carry more current through the wire, but if the amp can do so much, why spend the extra money on it? Same goes with the reverse. If you had a 4 gauge and 1/0 wire, but with a 3,000w amp, that 4 gauge is going to limit the amount of current the amp can provide, and you won't see that 3,000w. Hence, why the 1/0 would be a better choice and why some amps have dual power supplies with 1/0 openings.

The type of metal makes a difference too. Copper is the way to go. It does rot, but that depends on conditions. I've used copper terminals before and no problems where I'm at, but to be safe, people used tinned copper.

I think if a person drove their car twice, once without the grounding kit and once with and both times not knowing if the kit is installed or not, they wouldn't be able to tell the difference. It's like in the audio world, try to determine a 50w increase. Sure, if the original output of the amp is 50w and you add another 50, the difference will be noticeable. But say you're at 1,000w, adding another 50, or even 100 is going to be hard to determine for nearly everyone. Most of it is a mind thing, but that's just my opinion.

 

somewhere on these forms there is a before and after they put on the grounding kit that it add power. I don't know how it does that. But i am going to see if it really does that myself.

 

Just playing devil's advocate here...so far we have four dyno charts versus a few opinions.

 

I just don't see why making a more solid connection would add so much power. Can't even get that from swapping an intake or axleback. If in fact there was an increase in power, does that mean Infiniti/Nissan engineers couldn't determine weak grounding points?

Would be nice to hear from an electrical engineer, someone from an outside point of view. I also would think you'd see these in FI cars, because you're doing quite a bit of work there, and it's easy gains...yet I don't see grounding kits in the pics I've been looking at (mainly GTM's work).

 

Its a 6 year old dyno chart, for all we know they just moved the fan closer...I don't see any one dynoing on this forum. Heck people have dynoed for just a Ztube.

Like I said I wont buy into Grounding kits until there is scientific evidence that supports the claims. Word of mouth is never reliable.

The ECU/TCU are fully digital so grounding kits wont make a lick of difference to them which is why I am skeptical of the dynos.

 

don't worry, it's going to happen this month. Because i want to know for myself. I'll dyno my car 1st then install the grounding kit and dyno it again for you guys.

 

^ make sure you prove you installed it correctly(Ie pics of every point). First thing people say when you gain nothing or have negative review is "You did not install it correctly"