5AT Grounding kit question
#1
01-02-2011, 09:03 AM
5AT Grounding kit question
Ok, Looking around I have seen lots of people saying that the grounding kits help with some of the quirkiness of the 5AT transmission. My question is, do you really need the whole kit or would the one wire strung the to the tranny do the same thing. Forgive me if this is stupid. I am a noob electrician
#2
01-02-2011, 09:23 AM
Ok, Looking around I have seen lots of people saying that the grounding kits help with some of the quirkiness of the 5AT transmission. My question is, do you really need the whole kit or would the one wire strung the to the tranny do the same thing. Forgive me if this is stupid. I am a noob electrician
#3
01-02-2011, 09:57 AM
I've always added 1 supplemental ground wire to engine to my cars. Since this is the first auto, I would also add one to the trans.
Ground kits add multiple wires. I just do 1 or 2 and make it myself for a couple bucks. I used to be an electrician....so I have wire and crimps and the tool kicking around
Ground kits add multiple wires. I just do 1 or 2 and make it myself for a couple bucks. I used to be an electrician....so I have wire and crimps and the tool kicking around
#6
01-02-2011, 01:16 PM
A dozen wires is unnecessary IMHO. Running a ground wire from intake manifold to various point of the engine seems overkill considering the entire engine is metal and bolted together with metal fasteners. Most sensors on the engine carry their own grounds, so grounding the block really is so the spark can fire from the center electrode to the aluminum head. A good block or head ground would make a difference here. Most of the engine is aluminum, filled with coolant that also conducts electricity well, so all that I feel is needed is a solid block to chassis ground.
I've usually done one solid engine ground from block to chassis and another solid ground from trans to chassis. (on cars with electronic trans)
Supplemental grounding doesn't hurt at all, so doesn't hurt anything to do it. I just don't feel all 10 wires are needed.
Last edited by Mustang5L5; 01-04-2011 at 08:54 PM.
#7
01-02-2011, 02:36 PM
I have sold almost 400 kits and the feedback is 100% positive. DO you think THAT MANY people can be fooled?
Read the reviews and PM me if you are interested.
https://g35driver.com/forums/reviews...es-review.html
Read the reviews and PM me if you are interested.
https://g35driver.com/forums/reviews...es-review.html
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#8
01-02-2011, 03:08 PM
Im still waiting on a solution to get the grounding wire to the trans on the AWD, as the front driveshaft seems to block the "suggested mounting point"... any help sean?
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ing-wires.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ing-wires.html
#10
01-02-2011, 03:45 PM
I have sold almost 400 kits and the feedback is 100% positive. DO you think THAT MANY people can be fooled?
Read the reviews and PM me if you are interested.
https://g35driver.com/forums/reviews...es-review.html
Read the reviews and PM me if you are interested.
https://g35driver.com/forums/reviews...es-review.html
#11
01-02-2011, 03:55 PM
Well more wouldn't hurt, but it's unnecessary IMHO. Running a ground wire from intake manifold to various point of the engine seems overkill considering the entire engine is metal and bolted together with metal fasteners. Most sensors on the engine carry their own grounds, so grounding the block really is so the spark can fire from the center electrode to the aluminum head. A good block or head ground would make a difference here. Most of the engine is aluminum, filled with coolant that also conducts electricity well, so all that I feel is needed is a solid block to chassis ground.
I've usually done one solid engine ground from block to chassis and another solid ground from trans to chassis. (on cars with electronic trans)
Supplemental grounding doesn't hurt at all, so doesn't hurt anything to do it. I just don't feel all 10 wires are needed.
I've usually done one solid engine ground from block to chassis and another solid ground from trans to chassis. (on cars with electronic trans)
Supplemental grounding doesn't hurt at all, so doesn't hurt anything to do it. I just don't feel all 10 wires are needed.
Pretty much what he said. I opted to make my own grounding wires because I was skeptical and didnt want to spend $100 on something that I can make for under $20.
I forget how many wires I made, but as Mustang5L5 said you dont need 10 wires running all over the place. Just re-enforce the main grounds and you are good to go. I have noticed quicker/more responsive shifting in my 5AT and thats what I wanted to accomplish.
#12
01-02-2011, 04:16 PM
Pretty much what he said. I opted to make my own grounding wires because I was skeptical and didnt want to spend $100 on something that I can make for under $20.
I forget how many wires I made, but as Mustang5L5 said you dont need 10 wires running all over the place. Just re-enforce the main grounds and you are good to go. I have noticed quicker/more responsive shifting in my 5AT and thats what I wanted to accomplish.
I forget how many wires I made, but as Mustang5L5 said you dont need 10 wires running all over the place. Just re-enforce the main grounds and you are good to go. I have noticed quicker/more responsive shifting in my 5AT and thats what I wanted to accomplish.
A quick search of eBay and you can find plenty of pre made wires in different wire sizes and lengths. Just figure out what mount points you want to use and estimate how long of a wire you'll need. I prefer 2 or 4 ga wire.
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories
Last edited by Mustang5L5; 01-02-2011 at 05:12 PM.
#13
01-02-2011, 05:56 PM
Exactly. I used 4g wire. I opted to just buy a few ft of cable, connectors, and shrink so I could make them the exact length I wanted. I wanted them to follow the existing wires and concealed nicely.
As you said, you can add more, it wont hurt, but it also wont benifit you. It just makes for more wires to hide.
As you said, you can add more, it wont hurt, but it also wont benifit you. It just makes for more wires to hide.
#14
01-02-2011, 06:09 PM
There is some merit to what liljohnny said, Only way to find out is to measure the stock wires resistance + how much of a voltage drop at the different stock grounding points.
So far I do not think anyone has done a thorough scientific testing of the stock grounding wires/points.
Until then, I wont be spending money.
So far I do not think anyone has done a thorough scientific testing of the stock grounding wires/points.
Until then, I wont be spending money.
Last edited by thescreensavers; 01-02-2011 at 07:36 PM.
#15
01-02-2011, 07:57 PM
There is some merit to what liljohnny said, Only way to find out is to measure the stock wires resistance + how much of a voltage drop at the different stock grounding points.
So far I do not think anyone has done a thorough scientific testing of the stock grounding wires/points.
Until then, I wont be spending money.
So far I do not think anyone has done a thorough scientific testing of the stock grounding wires/points.
Until then, I wont be spending money.
One good block to chassis ground wire would run you $10 off eBay.
Of course, it would help to make sure all your current electrical connections are good and clean. This includes all current grounds and wiring as well as battery terminals and cables.
Last edited by Mustang5L5; 01-02-2011 at 08:01 PM.