A couple days ago my brothers car, an 07 G35x sedan 5AT was going into limp mode and throwing the P1757 Front Brake solenoid Code

He got it home, parked it and waited for me to come take a look at it. i got it up in the air, drained fluid, dropped pan, removed valve body and all that.

Took a look inside the TCM and it had the classic break at the elbow; resoldered it, started it putting the car back together, get it all pull together, i go to start it….. Nothing. just the sound of the Throttle body whirring. Dash lights and everything come on, just doesn’t start, or crank, even tried the jumper for good measure. nothing.

Starts throwing a U1000 Code, i go through all the fuses and see it blew the AT CONT 10AMP in the IDPM. Weird….. i get it to where i’m able to test the IDPM and still have the battery in to start the car, burned through a couple of the ten amp “sacrifice able” fuses in the car (spare, heated mirrior, dome light, and i believe the reverse light one[10 amp fuse, drivers kick panel])

kept blowing them, took everything apart again, nothing out of the ordinary but made sure everything was nice and snug. Chose to see if it would still blow fuses with out fully attaching the valve body and drain pan(just plugged in) No fuses blew this time.

However, still won’t start, still not showing the gear selector on the dash, still throwing the U1000 code, and(i think, not 100% bc maybe it only having the front lifted could affect it.) won’t go in to neutral, drive or reverse. so it’s completely bricked. Any ideas? i don’t think i fryed anything because i used properly rated fuses. The car ran before i soldered it, actually shifts fine too, just would kick into limp mode after the first 4-5 up shift.

 

Went and got more ten amp fuses today. replaced the ones i pulled. go to start it, blew AT Cont fuse again. i don’t know what it could be. Obviously there’s a wire open, but i don’t know which set of harnesses run to that fuse. It’s the AT Cont in the IDPM. Also, car will allow me to shift into gear now, still no crank or start.

 

You sure there isn't a bent pin in the harness on the transmission?

 

i connected the harnesses wrong inside the trans, turns out two of them are the same and fit in the same place lol, swapped it and it started right up and runs fine now

 

Wow that's some great info about the harnesses, glad everything is all squared away.

 

hey man can you go into a little more detail? I have a 2008 Infiniti g35s and I just resoldered my front brake solonoid valve elbow in the TCM and I’m getting the u1000 code as well. I know there’s the speed sensor and the main green harness, which one was connected wrong? Was it inside of the valve body?

 

Think you post a pic which harness im having exact issues installed valve body wrong same issues

 

he was most likely talking about the two connectors (green and gray) that attach to the TCM (pic below). i just had to go thru p1757 myself... mine wasn't a break at the solenoid circuit. All solenoids OHMed out in range except the front brake one that was 26 Ohm vs 6 Ohm on the rest of them. Went to a JY and grabbed a solenoid that Ohmed out correctly as well as a TCM. Threw both in and it appears to be shifting into 5th now. Need more test-driving tomorrow.

 

Had the same wiring issues in my 2004 Ford Super Duty with solenoids and speed sensors and i'm not happy to see even more wires and the TCM inside the 5AT transmission but, i'm sure the 'experts' at nissan thought it's a great idea to put computer and bunch of wires inside a HOT oil filled transmission.. My 5AT is still doing fine but as soon as it starts to give me problems, i'll convert it to manual!

 

yeah, but they covered the connectors with those rubber boots lmao how many miles on yours now?

 

Mine has 105k and shifts ok for a 07 but the DS mode is crap as i tell the trans to upshift and it takes sometimes 1 second and sometimes 3 seconds to do that, it's as if it doesn't really give a crap as to what i want but it's ok, i know it's old tech and eventually will fail..

 

i drive mine in manual mode 100% of the time. no issues with up/downshifts via paddles or the shifter. DS mode is kinda clunky, i agree.