hello everybody, I have a 2007 G35x I drove to Pennsylvania from New York and drove back the same day and when I got home to my house, I noticed that my radiator fans were on full blast. I was also smelling a scent of coolant when I went back inside my car and checked my temperature gauge it started to rise, so I drove the car down into my driveway and started seeing cool and dripping out on the floor when I looked under the car, I seen that coolant was pouring out from on top of the oil pan by the driver side. I let the car sit overnight and then When I got up this morning, I noticed that the radiator was near empty as I started to pour coolant into the radiator and I looked under the car. I noticed that coolant started dripping down from the driver side over the oil pan... could this be some type of hose that burst because I did hit a bad pothole before I went up to Pennsylvania.

or could this be something more sinister like my water pump?

 

unfortunately, this looks like the WP took a ****. how many miles on the rig? the replacement procedure is not terrible (it's tedious, if anything else). i've had mine done two years ago when a similar leak happened. see my thread: Water pump decisions with 245k on the clock - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion

P.S. it *could* be your thermostat housing. check around the top hose that sits underneath the driver side vtc cover. fingers crossed.

 

Check the heater hoses coming from the firewall to the engine. The one on the passenger side has a straight connector and the one on the driver side has a straight connector with a bleed valve. They are both plastic and prone to deterioration. They are difficult to replace due to limited working space.

 

Z1 has an aluminum bleeder that will never deteriorate. So don't put a plastic one back in!

 

This is what needs to happen. You can do it yourself after watching some videos on uTube.

Z1 Auto

 

& indeed it was... pump was literally gushing coolant out the weep hole. Decided to replace both Gallery Gaskets with new HEX bolts hardware along with a AISIN water pump since it's literally used by nissan and half the price of a OEM water pump & got a brand new main timing tensioner installed. Currently now im chasing an issue where the car would get to operating temperature & would start hesitating on acceleration at 1k rpm but then starts accelerating normally normally there after 😂 & my power steering pump is going out but that's an easy fix, the pump is just insanely expensive. just old G problems i guess

 

Yep got the car back September 12th. AISIN pump installed with new timing chain tensioner, conceptZ gallery gaskets & Hex bolt hardware

 

how many miles on the rig? check your fuel pump by logging your AFR (especially at wot). if it leans out, you can bet it's on its last legs.
getting any codes, btw? (check pending ones)

 

171K on the car. & yeah i also had a fuel pump issue before the whole timing BS happened. When i use to start the car only on cold start it use to struggle so bad to start & i narrowed it down to my fuel pump. had to replace the entire unit with a new one but it was a cheap one and the gas gauge started giving issue, so i went back OEM and i'm currently in the process of upgrading to a AEM 340 fuel pump and upgrading to bigger injectors. besides all of that i also had my TCM take a huge **** in july where it got stuck in 4th gear because of a broken pin that cost me $1500 😂. As of rn tho car has been running really good, just have to take care of the power steering & get it dialed in with a tune

 

I would replace the 4 camshaft sensors with OEM Denso ones, nothing else works right in the VQ35HR. I also thought it was my fuel pump but it wasn't, even though it pointed to it. But i would start with cleaning the MAF sensors, throttle bodies, check ALL rubber hoses for cracks. You can read my thread before you throw money away: https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-eng...-restarts.html

 

LOL this is my car to the T right now. Just repaired a P1757 for the same solenoid issue you had (stuck in 4th). Mine didn't have a break of circuit at the TCM that i could locate, so had to swap a new (used) TCM and a new(used) brake solenoid last week. couple of weeks before that swapped a new front wheel bearing and now dealing with our beautiful coolant system this week. the hose running by the exhaust manifold on the driver side finally decided to take a dump and spring a leak. it's in a terrible spot and i was barely able to get the oem clamps off last night. Swapped a new hose on, but it pissed some coolant this morning. OEM hose is around $20 for a 4" piece of hose... can't complain much. got it with 224k on the clock and it's right around 270k now.

 

I've been lucky so far since the water pump replacement but i did remove the 3 rubber mouldings/strips to vent out heat from under the hood.. Here in south florida, it gets HOT so instead of cutting holes in the hood, i removed the rubber pieces and temps never go past 200.

 

which ones are those? got a pic?

 

I think he's referring to the ones up by the cowl that then wrap the battery and master cylinder "compartments."

 

You can see the light coming out, i've shut the hood and let my flashlight on top on intake manifold. If your PCV system is sealed and you have GOOD valve cover gaskets, then you won't have any oil burning smell coming inside your cab. The windshield might fog up when AC is on, blasting on Defrost after the rain. I never use Defrost anyway.