I have an 05 with Intelligent key that I just bought. Yesterday, car wouldn't start thanks to the ignition absentmindedly being left in Accessory with the radio on for 5 hours. Had to get a jump, and couldn't even get it into neutral since no battery power, even with the fob key inside the ignition (steering wouldn't unlock, even with shimmying). Had to daisy chain two sets of jumper cables and was able to start the car.

So later I go get a battery test at AutoZone. The tool says "replace battery". I replaced the battery. However, the printout says that with the car off, 650milliamps are being pulled.

Researched on the net, looks like it's the Bose headunit causing the draw (haven't confirmed). Is there a DIY fix? After buying this car, there's no way I'm gonna spend $200+ on getting it fixed at some shop or paying more for a replacement unit. And do the replacements really fix the issue?

What are people doing nowadays to fix this? All posts I find on this issue are really old.

Have not been enjoying my new car purchase so far

 

I had the same problem in my 2004.5 G35x. So what I did is I installed a switch into the fuse in the engine compartment. I ran the wires into the cabin and had to switch just under the steering wheel. So when I would leave the car for an extended period of time I would just flip the switch and that would cut the power to the radio and the HVAC controls. Then after I did that I got a new battery and I also put some caulking on the boot that i cut to install the grounding kit where the wire of that ran to ECU. And after I did that I have never had any problems with my battery draining. And I haven't flipped the switch in over six months. But I do think my problem was slightly different from yours. Before I had the switch, my radio would turn on randomly about 5 min. after I would leave the car. And that will cause the battery to drain. Regardless this cheap solution should work for you.

 

Does your CD player/changer still work?

Mine broke/jammed and gave me a CD-01 and a dead battery in a couple days, but then again, it's an 03 and the earlier radios gave a lot more problems than the 05/06's

My solution was to remove the entire radio unit from the dash, dismantle it, and remove the cd-changer unit itself, and then re-assemble everything with no cd/changer.
It was a gamble if it would even work, but it did.
I now have working AM/FM, tape (lulz) AC control, and no more battery drain.

One thing you could do is make sure everything in your car is off, unplug any cell-phone chargers etc, pop the hood, let it sit for about an hr, and then go back out there and remove a battery terminal and put an ammeter between the battery post and the cable you removed.
This will show the draw.
If it's unusually high, start pulling fuses until you locate the circuit that's pulling all the power.
If it's unusually high,

 

Punch the head unit....and then kick it if that doesn't work.

 

is that a fluke? or do ALL 05 g35's draw 650milliamp when it's off?

 

The stock headunit shows no signs that it's broken. All CDs work, no jams, no errors, anything. So when people send their units in to be repaired, they're repairing the CD-changer? I don't think I can do without CD

Putting a switch in to control the battery power seems like it would work, but knowing me, I'll forget all about the switch when I exit my car. Past couple days it's been hard enough to remember to turn the radio & AC off before I turn off the car. But I guess this solution is a possibility.

Here's the thing about the 650mA measurement, it wasn't taken after the car had been sitting for a while. I had drove to AutoZone, parked the car, and they came out and started doing the battery test. So it's possible that the car was in that "wait state" where not everything is fully cut off yet. For example, the window motors still have power for a short while after turning off the car. I have not confirmed that the radio is the problem - it is just a hunch purely based on a) experiencing dead battery b) 650mA draw when car is off, and c) research performed on this site.

 

And add to that hunch the fact that dealership records indicate this car has been in the shop multiple times for a no-start condition. Battery had been replaced twice, and starter replaced another time. Pretty sure there's a drain now.

 

Did you try diagnosing it with an ammeter yet?

 

Negative. Will start some in-depth troubleshooting this weekend.

 

Wow!! im having this problem, i determined it to be the radio fuse draining with the car off, i just dont know which component under that radio fuse,

Ive seen about 100 of these posts with not a single FIX... So im pretty upset. Did you ever Fix this? do tell how.

 

^See my previous post (#3 in this thread) that's about the closest you'll get to "fixing" it without either sending it in for service, or replacing the entire thing.

 

There are several diy videos on how to either trim or reseat the ribbon cables in the head unit. You can by replacement ribbons cables at pac electric. This will fix the head unit till the cables wear out again.

 

I ended up Buying a Whole new HU and dask kit from Crutchfield Came to about $300, install is almost complete. ****ing Bose. wtf. Mt drain was actually coming from the CDplayer and Tape player itself. Not from the Circuit board. I had a mechanic friend help out. IT was pulling .5 amps plugged in, and .08 not.

 

^I'd bet money it was actually just the CD changer itself.

 

Are you talking about something like this:
http://www.shiftice.com/Maxima_02-03...dio_repair.pdf
?

That DIY is talking about audio cutting out. I have no issues with the radio functionality. If this is what you're talking about, when you send your radio out for repair at one of those shops, is this all they're doing (or something similar)?