Replacing Radiator
very straight forward and fairly easy. I have done 4-5 local members now. I have aftermarket so its really easy...if you were local here I could knock it out.
just have to remove the OEM fans from the radiator then unbolt from the front side there should be to holes..one on left and one on right....undo those 2 10mm bolts and that lets lose the radiator from the condensor. There are 2 top mounts nuts that hold the radiator in place to the actual front Radiator Support. You just turn those to the left to unlock and pop them straight out.
bottom side should be a drain that you can undo to release all the fluid from the radiator into a bin. If you need some real help I can take some pics of the areas I am talking about tomorrow and toss them up.
You will need to remove the upper radiator hose and what I did was stuff a rag into the upper coolant pipe so it would stop draining after removing the upper hose.
just have to remove the OEM fans from the radiator then unbolt from the front side there should be to holes..one on left and one on right....undo those 2 10mm bolts and that lets lose the radiator from the condensor. There are 2 top mounts nuts that hold the radiator in place to the actual front Radiator Support. You just turn those to the left to unlock and pop them straight out.
bottom side should be a drain that you can undo to release all the fluid from the radiator into a bin. If you need some real help I can take some pics of the areas I am talking about tomorrow and toss them up.
You will need to remove the upper radiator hose and what I did was stuff a rag into the upper coolant pipe so it would stop draining after removing the upper hose.
Last edited by g35man04; Jun 17, 2011 at 01:35 AM.
I've changed my radiator about 20 times now (remove and complete clean up's) No issues, just clean ups.
The process is fairly EASY with some mechanical common sense.
Firstly, very important...
Make sure the vehicle is cold, at least 4-6 hours cold depending on your ambient temps and overall usage.
There is a small nipple/screw on the bottom of the radiator, this is the drain plug. Place a container underneath the hole and remove the fluid.
Then remove the hoses
Then there is 2 10mm Bolts attached from the a/c condensor to the radiator itself. you will remove those bolts and then remove the plastic locks on the radiator support.
If you have an automatic transmission you have to remove the lines at the bottom of the radiator as well. you can now remove the radiator...
If you have a fan clutch you must remove the fan clutch first 4- 10mm bolts... If electric fans you have to remove the fan assembly.
It's simply remove the radiator, replace make sure you align the rubber gromments on the bottom of the radiator to the radiator support. once you have reinstalled repeat in backward order.
VERY important:
You MUST release the air trapped in the system. If not you can run the risk of overheating. To accomplish this.
Fill the radiator to the top of the neck filler, SLOWLY open the air release at the rear of the engine by the passenger side.
Turn on the vehicle and put the heater on FULL blast. (on highest setting)
The fluid may spill just a bit remember hot water expands cold water contracts.
I have found that the best way is to get all of the air out of the back of then engine first and then seal the air relief and burp the engine. Providing you dont have a "non spill tank".
If you have a non spill tank which you can get at NAPA you're life is much easier just fill the bucket turn on the car and keep an eye on the temps... once the engine has burped all of the air out you can seal the cap and call it a day. The previous method takes some practice and patience.
Few things I've learned from my 2003 (fan clutch G35)
The auxillary fan will kick on at 205 degree's at 50%. at 215 it will begin to rise and by 220 it's on at 100%.
Fan clutches tend to keep the temperature at a constant 188-191 degree's.
Cars with E-fan will turn the fan's on at 200 (providing a/c is off) Once the temps hit 210 the fans kick on at 100%.
regardless of which setup you have if you take the temps up to 240+ you are running the risk of catastrophic engine failure.
The process is fairly EASY with some mechanical common sense.
Firstly, very important...
Make sure the vehicle is cold, at least 4-6 hours cold depending on your ambient temps and overall usage.
There is a small nipple/screw on the bottom of the radiator, this is the drain plug. Place a container underneath the hole and remove the fluid.
Then remove the hoses
Then there is 2 10mm Bolts attached from the a/c condensor to the radiator itself. you will remove those bolts and then remove the plastic locks on the radiator support.
If you have an automatic transmission you have to remove the lines at the bottom of the radiator as well. you can now remove the radiator...
If you have a fan clutch you must remove the fan clutch first 4- 10mm bolts... If electric fans you have to remove the fan assembly.
It's simply remove the radiator, replace make sure you align the rubber gromments on the bottom of the radiator to the radiator support. once you have reinstalled repeat in backward order.
VERY important:
You MUST release the air trapped in the system. If not you can run the risk of overheating. To accomplish this.
Fill the radiator to the top of the neck filler, SLOWLY open the air release at the rear of the engine by the passenger side.
Turn on the vehicle and put the heater on FULL blast. (on highest setting)
The fluid may spill just a bit remember hot water expands cold water contracts.
I have found that the best way is to get all of the air out of the back of then engine first and then seal the air relief and burp the engine. Providing you dont have a "non spill tank".
If you have a non spill tank which you can get at NAPA you're life is much easier just fill the bucket turn on the car and keep an eye on the temps... once the engine has burped all of the air out you can seal the cap and call it a day. The previous method takes some practice and patience.
Few things I've learned from my 2003 (fan clutch G35)
The auxillary fan will kick on at 205 degree's at 50%. at 215 it will begin to rise and by 220 it's on at 100%.
Fan clutches tend to keep the temperature at a constant 188-191 degree's.
Cars with E-fan will turn the fan's on at 200 (providing a/c is off) Once the temps hit 210 the fans kick on at 100%.
regardless of which setup you have if you take the temps up to 240+ you are running the risk of catastrophic engine failure.
It's not too hard, just take your time...do you have a Factory Service Manual?
The hardest part is bolting the condenser back to the radiator through the small bolt holes. Also, make sure you don't bang the lower part of the radiator with a hammer when aligning it into the lower mounting holes. Wouldn't want to risk future leaking...yes it's a tight fit!
The hardest part is bolting the condenser back to the radiator through the small bolt holes. Also, make sure you don't bang the lower part of the radiator with a hammer when aligning it into the lower mounting holes. Wouldn't want to risk future leaking...yes it's a tight fit!
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: West Coast
I've changed my radiator about 20 times now (remove and complete clean up's) No issues, just clean ups.
The process is fairly EASY with some mechanical common sense.
Firstly, very important...
Make sure the vehicle is cold, at least 4-6 hours cold depending on your ambient temps and overall usage.
There is a small nipple/screw on the bottom of the radiator, this is the drain plug. Place a container underneath the hole and remove the fluid.
Then remove the hoses
Then there is 2 10mm Bolts attached from the a/c condensor to the radiator itself. you will remove those bolts and then remove the plastic locks on the radiator support.
If you have an automatic transmission you have to remove the lines at the bottom of the radiator as well. you can now remove the radiator...
If you have a fan clutch you must remove the fan clutch first 4- 10mm bolts... If electric fans you have to remove the fan assembly.
It's simply remove the radiator, replace make sure you align the rubber gromments on the bottom of the radiator to the radiator support. once you have reinstalled repeat in backward order.
VERY important:
You MUST release the air trapped in the system. If not you can run the risk of overheating. To accomplish this.
Fill the radiator to the top of the neck filler, SLOWLY open the air release at the rear of the engine by the passenger side.
Turn on the vehicle and put the heater on FULL blast. (on highest setting)
The fluid may spill just a bit remember hot water expands cold water contracts.
I have found that the best way is to get all of the air out of the back of then engine first and then seal the air relief and burp the engine. Providing you dont have a "non spill tank".
If you have a non spill tank which you can get at NAPA you're life is much easier just fill the bucket turn on the car and keep an eye on the temps... once the engine has burped all of the air out you can seal the cap and call it a day. The previous method takes some practice and patience.
Few things I've learned from my 2003 (fan clutch G35)
The auxillary fan will kick on at 205 degree's at 50%. at 215 it will begin to rise and by 220 it's on at 100%.
Fan clutches tend to keep the temperature at a constant 188-191 degree's.
Cars with E-fan will turn the fan's on at 200 (providing a/c is off) Once the temps hit 210 the fans kick on at 100%.
regardless of which setup you have if you take the temps up to 240+ you are running the risk of catastrophic engine failure.
The process is fairly EASY with some mechanical common sense.
Firstly, very important...
Make sure the vehicle is cold, at least 4-6 hours cold depending on your ambient temps and overall usage.
There is a small nipple/screw on the bottom of the radiator, this is the drain plug. Place a container underneath the hole and remove the fluid.
Then remove the hoses
Then there is 2 10mm Bolts attached from the a/c condensor to the radiator itself. you will remove those bolts and then remove the plastic locks on the radiator support.
If you have an automatic transmission you have to remove the lines at the bottom of the radiator as well. you can now remove the radiator...
If you have a fan clutch you must remove the fan clutch first 4- 10mm bolts... If electric fans you have to remove the fan assembly.
It's simply remove the radiator, replace make sure you align the rubber gromments on the bottom of the radiator to the radiator support. once you have reinstalled repeat in backward order.
VERY important:
You MUST release the air trapped in the system. If not you can run the risk of overheating. To accomplish this.
Fill the radiator to the top of the neck filler, SLOWLY open the air release at the rear of the engine by the passenger side.
Turn on the vehicle and put the heater on FULL blast. (on highest setting)
The fluid may spill just a bit remember hot water expands cold water contracts.
I have found that the best way is to get all of the air out of the back of then engine first and then seal the air relief and burp the engine. Providing you dont have a "non spill tank".
If you have a non spill tank which you can get at NAPA you're life is much easier just fill the bucket turn on the car and keep an eye on the temps... once the engine has burped all of the air out you can seal the cap and call it a day. The previous method takes some practice and patience.
Few things I've learned from my 2003 (fan clutch G35)
The auxillary fan will kick on at 205 degree's at 50%. at 215 it will begin to rise and by 220 it's on at 100%.
Fan clutches tend to keep the temperature at a constant 188-191 degree's.
Cars with E-fan will turn the fan's on at 200 (providing a/c is off) Once the temps hit 210 the fans kick on at 100%.
regardless of which setup you have if you take the temps up to 240+ you are running the risk of catastrophic engine failure.
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: West Coast
It's not too hard, just take your time...do you have a Factory Service Manual?
The hardest part is bolting the condenser back to the radiator through the small bolt holes. Also, make sure you don't bang the lower part of the radiator with a hammer when aligning it into the lower mounting holes. Wouldn't want to risk future leaking...yes it's a tight fit!
The hardest part is bolting the condenser back to the radiator through the small bolt holes. Also, make sure you don't bang the lower part of the radiator with a hammer when aligning it into the lower mounting holes. Wouldn't want to risk future leaking...yes it's a tight fit!
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: West Coast
I've changed my radiator about 20 times now (remove and complete clean up's) No issues, just clean ups.
The process is fairly EASY with some mechanical common sense.
Firstly, very important...
Make sure the vehicle is cold, at least 4-6 hours cold depending on your ambient temps and overall usage.
There is a small nipple/screw on the bottom of the radiator, this is the drain plug. Place a container underneath the hole and remove the fluid.
Then remove the hoses
Then there is 2 10mm Bolts attached from the a/c condensor to the radiator itself. you will remove those bolts and then remove the plastic locks on the radiator support.
If you have an automatic transmission you have to remove the lines at the bottom of the radiator as well. you can now remove the radiator...
If you have a fan clutch you must remove the fan clutch first 4- 10mm bolts... If electric fans you have to remove the fan assembly.
It's simply remove the radiator, replace make sure you align the rubber gromments on the bottom of the radiator to the radiator support. once you have reinstalled repeat in backward order.
VERY important:
You MUST release the air trapped in the system. If not you can run the risk of overheating. To accomplish this.
Fill the radiator to the top of the neck filler, SLOWLY open the air release at the rear of the engine by the passenger side.
Turn on the vehicle and put the heater on FULL blast. (on highest setting)
The fluid may spill just a bit remember hot water expands cold water contracts.
I have found that the best way is to get all of the air out of the back of then engine first and then seal the air relief and burp the engine. Providing you dont have a "non spill tank".
If you have a non spill tank which you can get at NAPA you're life is much easier just fill the bucket turn on the car and keep an eye on the temps... once the engine has burped all of the air out you can seal the cap and call it a day. The previous method takes some practice and patience.
Few things I've learned from my 2003 (fan clutch G35)
The auxillary fan will kick on at 205 degree's at 50%. at 215 it will begin to rise and by 220 it's on at 100%.
Fan clutches tend to keep the temperature at a constant 188-191 degree's.
Cars with E-fan will turn the fan's on at 200 (providing a/c is off) Once the temps hit 210 the fans kick on at 100%.
regardless of which setup you have if you take the temps up to 240+ you are running the risk of catastrophic engine failure.
The process is fairly EASY with some mechanical common sense.
Firstly, very important...
Make sure the vehicle is cold, at least 4-6 hours cold depending on your ambient temps and overall usage.
There is a small nipple/screw on the bottom of the radiator, this is the drain plug. Place a container underneath the hole and remove the fluid.
Then remove the hoses
Then there is 2 10mm Bolts attached from the a/c condensor to the radiator itself. you will remove those bolts and then remove the plastic locks on the radiator support.
If you have an automatic transmission you have to remove the lines at the bottom of the radiator as well. you can now remove the radiator...
If you have a fan clutch you must remove the fan clutch first 4- 10mm bolts... If electric fans you have to remove the fan assembly.
It's simply remove the radiator, replace make sure you align the rubber gromments on the bottom of the radiator to the radiator support. once you have reinstalled repeat in backward order.
VERY important:
You MUST release the air trapped in the system. If not you can run the risk of overheating. To accomplish this.
Fill the radiator to the top of the neck filler, SLOWLY open the air release at the rear of the engine by the passenger side.
Turn on the vehicle and put the heater on FULL blast. (on highest setting)
The fluid may spill just a bit remember hot water expands cold water contracts.
I have found that the best way is to get all of the air out of the back of then engine first and then seal the air relief and burp the engine. Providing you dont have a "non spill tank".
If you have a non spill tank which you can get at NAPA you're life is much easier just fill the bucket turn on the car and keep an eye on the temps... once the engine has burped all of the air out you can seal the cap and call it a day. The previous method takes some practice and patience.
Few things I've learned from my 2003 (fan clutch G35)
The auxillary fan will kick on at 205 degree's at 50%. at 215 it will begin to rise and by 220 it's on at 100%.
Fan clutches tend to keep the temperature at a constant 188-191 degree's.
Cars with E-fan will turn the fan's on at 200 (providing a/c is off) Once the temps hit 210 the fans kick on at 100%.
regardless of which setup you have if you take the temps up to 240+ you are running the risk of catastrophic engine failure.
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Fan clutch is a fan driven off the belts. It is mechanical. The hotter the radiator becomes the more the fan clutch engages thus creating more airflow. Fan clutches on our cars are thermally controlled so at lower temperatures it'll disengage vs hotter temps engage.
Electric fans are controlled via a temperature control unit and use no pulleys to spin the motors. I opted to change from fan clutch to efans. I am very happy i made that decision.
Last edited by Eric@TCGMiami; Jun 18, 2011 at 04:33 PM. Reason: typo
I believe Koyo and mishimoto make dual good slim aluminum radiators which enhance the cooling factor by allowing a bit more fluid while allowing you to retain the items you've stated.
I purchased a PWR Radiator... It's too damn big! I takes 2 gallons to fill it + the engine is another gallon. Additionally, I had to remove the intake box modify the stillen CAI, and remove the air scoop. But my temps stay very even.
I purchased a PWR Radiator... It's too damn big! I takes 2 gallons to fill it + the engine is another gallon. Additionally, I had to remove the intake box modify the stillen CAI, and remove the air scoop. But my temps stay very even.
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 87
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From: West Coast
Yes, and the outcome was great. Sorry if I have not been on this board since I got a Corolla in 2011 and I passed on the G35 to my little brother. Sadly, the car was just hit by an unattentive driver in the rear and may be totaled. Eric, thank you so much for your help two years ago. It's good guys like you and many others who help keep this forum alive.
Lately, I've been bit by the BMW bug
Lately, I've been bit by the BMW bug
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 300
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From: ATL
Hi. Anybody home? I got a new radiator and my fans will not sit down in the supports on the radiator. Any ideas for making it happen? The support tabs on the radiator do not line up with the insert parts on the fan shroud. They're not even the same shape. The slots in the supports on this new radiator are too narrow for the fan shroud inserts to fit in there even if they did line up. What to do guys?