2003 G35 AC Issue
#16
#19
thats what i think is the problem. i had my radiator bust and it sprayed coolant everywhere...i changed it out and the car has been fine since. As soon as it rained (first time in 3 months about 3 weeks ago) the AC turned off in the middle of driving. Would the temperature sensor up front have anything to do with it?
#24
Unfamiliar with the G35 system, but I assume there is a high pressure and low pressure cut off switch?
If so, the issue could be overcharge or undercharge. Had a friends car with this the other day. He put too much in, so when the ac turned on, the high side would spike and the high pressure cutoff would turn off the compressor.
That's why you need to hook an ac gauge manifold on and get a reading. (by that I mean high side and low side). It's possible the level is low or high.
I think it's low. Usually what happens is when you turn the ac on, the pressure on the high side will rise and the low side will drop. This pressure differential is what gives you cold air. When your level is low, the low side will drop to a very low pressure, like 20psi or less....and this will cause the low pressure switch to turn off the compressor.
I'm searching for the hvac FSM right now
Edit: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Seda..._Sedan/atc.pdf
If so, the issue could be overcharge or undercharge. Had a friends car with this the other day. He put too much in, so when the ac turned on, the high side would spike and the high pressure cutoff would turn off the compressor.
That's why you need to hook an ac gauge manifold on and get a reading. (by that I mean high side and low side). It's possible the level is low or high.
I think it's low. Usually what happens is when you turn the ac on, the pressure on the high side will rise and the low side will drop. This pressure differential is what gives you cold air. When your level is low, the low side will drop to a very low pressure, like 20psi or less....and this will cause the low pressure switch to turn off the compressor.
I'm searching for the hvac FSM right now
Edit: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Seda..._Sedan/atc.pdf
Last edited by Mustang5L5; 07-31-2011 at 02:40 PM.
#26
If ypu don't know what ypu are doing, take it to a shop. Ac is one of those things you really gotta know what you are doing.
If you have a buddy who does know what you can do, you can rent r-134a manifold gauges from autozome and check.
More than likely you have a leak. Legally, you need to fix the leak before recharging the system. However, up to you. Just dont blindly add a can, check the pressures first and add only what is needed. The total system charge is 1.2 pounds, which is 15-16 ounces. Unless ypu are totally empty, a full 12 oz can will overcharge.
Whatever you do, do not use any of that r-134a with the additives like conditioner and stop leak. Those will slowly kill your compressor. Pure r-134a only.
The proper way to fix this if there is a leak is to identify the leak, unclip the line and quickly replace the o-rings and reconnect the line. Then you must pull a deep vacuum to 29.90 inHg and hold it for an hour. Then you pressurize the lines to 250psi with nitrogen, and repeat the vacuum/pressurize process 2 more times. Then, with a vacuum pulled..you charge with 1.2 pounds of r-134a. No oil is needed to be added for a small leak repair. Extreme proper protocol calls for accumulator replacement any time the system is opened.
Like I said before...ac work is something that requires special tools and you really need to know what you are doing.
If you have a buddy who does know what you can do, you can rent r-134a manifold gauges from autozome and check.
More than likely you have a leak. Legally, you need to fix the leak before recharging the system. However, up to you. Just dont blindly add a can, check the pressures first and add only what is needed. The total system charge is 1.2 pounds, which is 15-16 ounces. Unless ypu are totally empty, a full 12 oz can will overcharge.
Whatever you do, do not use any of that r-134a with the additives like conditioner and stop leak. Those will slowly kill your compressor. Pure r-134a only.
The proper way to fix this if there is a leak is to identify the leak, unclip the line and quickly replace the o-rings and reconnect the line. Then you must pull a deep vacuum to 29.90 inHg and hold it for an hour. Then you pressurize the lines to 250psi with nitrogen, and repeat the vacuum/pressurize process 2 more times. Then, with a vacuum pulled..you charge with 1.2 pounds of r-134a. No oil is needed to be added for a small leak repair. Extreme proper protocol calls for accumulator replacement any time the system is opened.
Like I said before...ac work is something that requires special tools and you really need to know what you are doing.
#27
^^ I will take it to a shop to have it looked at. I somewhat doubt its a leak since the AC works when its not raining and if it was a leak, it would have all leaked out. I looked at the tech manual and there was a note about pressure drop when water is splashed onto the condenser. Possible cuase was the pressure being too high, so I might just see what the gauges read out. Solution was to empty some refrigerant out. Thanks for the help. Just gota find time to take it to a damn shop now.
#28
^^ I will take it to a shop to have it looked at. I somewhat doubt its a leak since the AC works when its not raining and if it was a leak, it would have all leaked out. I looked at the tech manual and there was a note about pressure drop when water is splashed onto the condenser. Possible cuase was the pressure being too high, so I might just see what the gauges read out. Solution was to empty some refrigerant out. Thanks for the help. Just gota find time to take it to a damn shop now.
A leak doesn't mean all of the refrigerant has leaked out. Leaks are slow, so the pressure drop would be over time. Highly doubtful it's overpressurized if nobody has added anything to it
Until you have someone with a gauge set look at it...we are only guessing though.
#29
I think I found out what it was. Monday night I washed my car and and then in the morning my AC wouldnt turn on. Later that afternoon it turned on. Did the same thing yesterday and I was like WTF it has to be electrical because there was a lot of condensation in the mornings last two days. I took out the front grill to check the pressure sensor on the refrigerant tank on the condenser and found that it was broken open in two and just hanging by a small cable strip. I put it back and electric taped the **** out of it. I assume whenever water was getting in there, it would short and not work correctly. I will find out when it rains if my fix actually worked, but that was the only broken thing I found. I might wrap it in some kinda of water resistant material and zip tie the hell out of it.
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