P0507 SES Light =(
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From: Long Island
P0507 SES Light =(
I bought my car about a little over a week ago. Ive since driven it about 350 miles or so. So today when I was driving back to work from a clients and looked down and saw the SES light was on. My immediate reaction was to punch the stirring wheel (Which i did not do) So I went to autozone thinking that maybe it was a oil change indicator or hoping that it was somthing stupid like that. So the guy pulls the code and its the P0507 indicating the follow.
Idle speed control system RPM higher than expected
aa1. Large vacuum leak
aa2. Faulty throttle control actuator
aa3. Throttle body damage
I have noticed that my car is sucking down gas fairly quickly. (300 miles per tank or lower)
The car idles fine though. Around 1k to 875 rpm per min
I looked under the hood and I dont see any obvious vaccum tube's disconnected or damaged. The only thing I did see was that the clips to the air filter were undone. I clipped them back into place and immediately started google the code. I got some answers and tried the steps to get my car to relearn the idle air volume. Followed the steps to the T. Also did it with a friend of mine to make sure I wasnt nuts and doing somthing wrong. He confirmed that I was following the directions correctly. Instructions below. The SES light refuses to start blinking and shows no indicator that the proceedure was working. What do you guys think I should do next?
"Operation Procedure:
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” (NOT start) and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 seconds.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Remember, accurate timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. You may even need someone's help to do this correctly."
BTW: For some entertainment here are some pics of my new ride after I washed and waxed on Saturday.
Idle speed control system RPM higher than expected
aa1. Large vacuum leak
aa2. Faulty throttle control actuator
aa3. Throttle body damage
I have noticed that my car is sucking down gas fairly quickly. (300 miles per tank or lower)
The car idles fine though. Around 1k to 875 rpm per min
I looked under the hood and I dont see any obvious vaccum tube's disconnected or damaged. The only thing I did see was that the clips to the air filter were undone. I clipped them back into place and immediately started google the code. I got some answers and tried the steps to get my car to relearn the idle air volume. Followed the steps to the T. Also did it with a friend of mine to make sure I wasnt nuts and doing somthing wrong. He confirmed that I was following the directions correctly. Instructions below. The SES light refuses to start blinking and shows no indicator that the proceedure was working. What do you guys think I should do next?
"Operation Procedure:
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” (NOT start) and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 seconds.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Remember, accurate timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. You may even need someone's help to do this correctly."
BTW: For some entertainment here are some pics of my new ride after I washed and waxed on Saturday.
300 miles per fill up (about 16 to 17 gallons) is normal. A 875 to 1000rpm idle is not. Warm idle should be no high than 650rpms or just under the 700rpm mark. Anything higher means you've either got a vacuum leak or someone has messed with the throttle body by either moving the throttle blade or disconnecting it without disconnecting the negative termimal on the battery first.
The relearn procedure you posted is very tricky to do right and takes numerous attempts to get right. You'll know you've done correctly when the idle drops to 650rpms. Make sure the engine is completely warm before attempting. A cold idle will screw everything up.
The relearn procedure you posted is very tricky to do right and takes numerous attempts to get right. You'll know you've done correctly when the idle drops to 650rpms. Make sure the engine is completely warm before attempting. A cold idle will screw everything up.
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 11
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From: Long Island
300 miles per fill up (about 16 to 17 gallons) is normal. A 875 to 1000rpm idle is not. Warm idle should be no high than 650rpms or just under the 700rpm mark. Anything higher means you've either got a vacuum leak or someone has messed with the throttle body by either moving the throttle blade or disconnecting it without disconnecting the negative termimal on the battery first.
The relearn procedure you posted is very tricky to do right and takes numerous attempts to get right. You'll know you've done correctly when the idle drops to 650rpms. Make sure the engine is completely warm before attempting. A cold idle will screw everything up.
The relearn procedure you posted is very tricky to do right and takes numerous attempts to get right. You'll know you've done correctly when the idle drops to 650rpms. Make sure the engine is completely warm before attempting. A cold idle will screw everything up.
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I have had this problem on my car before, and i have tried the relearn procedure on my own. but i couldn't get it work. so i finally gave up and went to the dealership. they charged me $110.
Car looks great btw, and 300 mile per fill up is not bad for an x.
300 miles per fill up (about 16 to 17 gallons) is normal. A 875 to 1000rpm idle is not. Warm idle should be no high than 650rpms or just under the 700rpm mark. Anything higher means you've either got a vacuum leak or someone has messed with the throttle body by either moving the throttle blade or disconnecting it without disconnecting the negative termimal on the battery first.
The relearn procedure you posted is very tricky to do right and takes numerous attempts to get right. You'll know you've done correctly when the idle drops to 650rpms. Make sure the engine is completely warm before attempting. A cold idle will screw everything up.
The relearn procedure you posted is very tricky to do right and takes numerous attempts to get right. You'll know you've done correctly when the idle drops to 650rpms. Make sure the engine is completely warm before attempting. A cold idle will screw everything up.
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 11
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From: Long Island
Thank goodness this problem went away. My stillen CIA is coming in today. And I didnt want to have to wait to solve this before I installed it, so that way the dealership doesnt blame the CIA
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Long Island
Its my father in laws. When we got hit with the hurricane he made me drive it through this lol. Needless to say I was a little reluctant. Keep in mind that we normally have curbs...
