In my z it was right below the center console. While I say it's ok to remove the fuse, it still doesn't really serve a purpose, .

 

Bringing this old thread to life again! I was curious of this and pulled the fuse out of my 06 x today. took it for a spin and yes i do feel it a bit more snappier and lots of rear wheel tire spin. Some forums was saying that the 2nd gen doesnt have a awd fuse that u gotta run a switch from behind the glove box. FALSE. http://g35nyc.com/forums/showthread....2nd-Gen-Sedans my fuse is located on the floor panel on the left side up driver side.As i read yes it does concern me that it may mess up your tranny. and some argued "why want a 2wd sell the awd and get a 2wd. well like some said, we X guys have best of both worlds. Whether or not i want to keep the fuse out til winter that im not so sure. Maybe on those nice days when i wanna drive it like its a coupe i'll pull the fuse.

 

I think 2nd gen is referring to 2007+ G35x's as major components were redesigned and not compatible to the 03-06's.

03-06 is considered 1st gen by most even though there was a refresh for the 05 model year. You could still take a wheel bearing from an '06 and bolt it to an '03.

 

i always thought 1st gen os 03 04 and 2ng gen 05 06. only thing thats the same as far as i know is main chasis and some drive train parts. of course motor and tranny. my best friend has a 04 x and we help eachother working on our cars so im very familiar with the 03 04. the most obvious that is different is the front/rear lights, bumpers, grill, side skirts, wheels and interior

 

The main chassis is what makes it considered the same generation. Even though the interior and exterior were changed slightly, mechanically they are very similar and a lot of parts would interchange. 05 is really just considered a refresh.

Splitting hairs really.

 

What do you hope to accomplish by pulling the AWD fuse? Better mileage?

IMO it's not worth the risk of damage to your car. Put the fuse back in. A 1mpg difference is not worth the risk. Besides, Road and Track tested the G35x as having better handling than the RWD sedan.

 

U obviously didn't read the whole thread. Pulling the awd makes the car a rwd thus more pull and a little more fun driving. If u drive like a grandpa this thread isn't for u. And I dont think think this gives better mpg. And yes the awd does give better handling

 

I did read the whole thread. And I think pulling a fuse to electronically short out what the car is meant to do is a little ridiculous.

But hey, it's your car and you do what you want with it. If unplugging a fuse makes you feel more manly, more power to you. I really hope this doesn't lead to something breaking on your car, because this would be a costly mistake and i'd hate to see you have to spend $1k or more on repairs due to doing something so trivial.

By the way, you don't have to have a RWD car to have fun. And AWD doesn't make you a grandpa driver.

 

I've read on here guys who has been driving with the fuse pulled on a regular basis and only put it back in the winter. NO issues reported. Pulling the fuse disables the front clutch for the front axles. It's like driving with your radio off I don't think the radio will break when it's off. Front wheel axles being off I don't think it's gonna break.
And I still don't think u read the reviews on awd fuse pulls if u did u would know why some guys are doing it. switching from awd and rwd on demand is pretty cool. Having best of both words. Only people who likes to drive a little aggressive from time to time would understand this. So u must drive like a grandpa lol

 

Except you have the weight and drag of the AWD system still coming along for the ride. Huge dynamics in how the car handles as you still have the understeer inherent with the G35X.

Driving style has nothing to do with this question. This is more of less about taking the system and creating a condition that is outside of the design intent. In the rare case that pulling the fuse does mess up someone's car, would you be willing to take responsibility for that? Most people would say no.

Basically, it's your car and you can do what you want. I drive like an **** in my car, but pulling the AWD fuse is not something I would ever even consider. I'm sure there are other guys with the same mindset as well.

 

There really are no downfalls to this modification.

I drove for months with no issues going between RWD and AWD.

Worst case scenario, a transfer case costs $400 used. A few hours and everything would be normal.

Since opening this thread I have learned that the car only limits the throttle for the first few seconds when you flip the switch for RWD.

Without this mod I would have needed to buy a new transmission... So many of my front AWD components went bad from being lowered and driving like an idiot that I decided to just take it all out as opposed to paying to replace almost my entire AWD system.

I took out the drive shaft, CV axles, and the differential. You have to sever the CV joint and re-install the wheel speed sensor or all hell will break loose.

As far as I know, the understeer issue is fixed with some suspension work, but I don't know for sure.

 

Which paddle shifters did you buy? Still looking for a set.

 

Except not everyone on the forum has the technical ability to swap out a transfer case because they want to try out RWD here and there.

 

Anyone know of a trick to keep AWD on, but fine tune/calibrate wheel/tire diameter to computer.
Since I've switched to running a staggered aggresive setup, I get the flashing AWD light once in a while. Scary at first, so I pulled the fuse to keep it from wearing out my transfer case or confusing power transfers every turn or acceleration.

I'm still looking into this, as maybe I should just run my 19's with 'not so aggressive' tires and offset as my daily / race setup, and 20's for shows.

I'm also looking into this: http://latentsolutions.com/suprastickuv.html
This is a full tranny computer to adjust my shift points, since now I'm running the valve body upgrade (Transgo Kit), tranny cooler w/in-line thermostat (to keep trans fluid at oem spec running temp). A high stall torque converter helps too, which I'm getting custom made. I'll keep you guys posted..whoever checks the forums still. Good for google searches

 

It's not mechanically possible to do this.

When the transfer case fully engages the clutch in a slip situation (or when engaging SNOW mode) the power is evenly split. If the tires are different diameters, then something needs to give. In the snow, the tires will slip a bit, but on a dry day with good tires, odds are the stress will be in the transfer case.

But basically you are mechanically limited here. It's not a function of the computer.