Bringing back a thread..any one else have this bump or roll and can explain more?

 

The body roll I assume you're talking about? The rear sway bar is somewhat undersized for our cars. Going to a stiffer, slightly beefier rear sway bar will reduce body roll considerably and help correct understeer for the X drivers like myself.

My question still stands: For those of you who went to adjustable aftermarket sway bars (hotchkis, eibach, etc.) do you HAVE to get adjustable sway bar links? Or will the front and rear sway bar links fit in every hole on the sway bars without needing extension?

 

Thank you...i meant on post #10. He talks about the rear kicking out on bumps. I have the same issue that cant seem to fix. At firts thought it was my tires having a soft sidewall so i changed tires with no change. Then dropped the car on teins s techs with new oem shocks, no change. Addes adjustable camber and traction arms where sometimes it will feel like it would kick out at times and other times very little. I also have rear chasis brace and lower lateral brace. Trying to get that kickout feeling to go away it really takes the confidence out of trying to take some corners hard

 

Hotchkis 22413R.

 

Thats the rear that fits ours?

 

Yes sir. ConceptZPerformance has them in stock. I ordered that one from them and I ordered the front one off ebay. The front is VERY hard to find, couldn't find it anywhere else.

 

Rear bump steer is adjusted via those "traction arms". They are actually called RADIUS RODS.

They're not actually traction arms since it's not preventing rotation of the differential/axle. Changing the length (requires an alignment) changes rear bump steer which is probably what you're experiencing.

As the rear suspension compresses (or bounces) as the outboard rear suspension compresses going around a corner it causes a toe-out condition on that outboard corner. The opposite happens on the inboard rear tire as weight is shifted off it and it lifts the suspension that tire toes in.

Shortening the radius rod increases the intensity of your bump steer, it turns more easily, you might want this if you have very wide tires with a lot of extra grip on the track.

Lengthening the radius rod brings the geometry further from the pivot point thus less movement and causes less toe change as the body rolls through a corner. Again this is all dependent on your traction bias from front to rear, and it changes according to acceleration and deceleration. As weight shifts forward during braking your entire suspension lifts in the rear and causes a different change in toe compared to accelerating out of a corner where weight is shifting and compressing the rear suspension.

Stiffer sway bars decrease the intensity of the toe change from body roll side-to-side. However it comes at the cost of comfort when NOT RACING. It's also very dependent on the track you're racing, if it's a rough track and you're too tight it's going to bounce and lose contact/pressure on the road and you will have worse lap times.

Shock/strut bound/rebound can in front/rear loading from brake/acceleration as well as fine tune the amount of hop you get on a rough track.

Suspension dialing is about 50% math 50% experience. It's by far my LEAST FAVORITE part of racing but it's also by far the MOST IMPORTANT part of racing (road course/autox/etc). Suspensions win races not horsepower. Same applies to straight line racing but in a much simpler fashion since you only calculate for rear load and minimizing hop in a RWD platform. AWD it's almost as complex as road course but you're only really dialing the front for your 60'.

 

I strongly suggest you leave your radius rods set at the factory length (unless you're comfortable adjusting a multi-link suspension). If you don't have the factory radius rods I think I have a set I can go measure for center-center bolt hole distance.

 

thank you so much for the great info. I'll pm if i need measurements