G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

time for a clutch replacement!

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  #16  
Old 11-14-2011, 04:36 PM
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^ +1 on JWT premature failures. IMO, if you're not FI, stick with the exedy for the best drivability and call it a day.
 
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:16 AM
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I too need to replace my clutch ASAP (also flywheel I'm assuming). I am pretty set on the OE Exedy clutch given the price (~$230 on eBay), but I'm not sure which flywheel is cheapest/gives least chatter?

The Nismo seems appealing given the low noise, but I've heard that the Exedy NF04 is the exact same part? Is there any other flywheels, ACT or Exedy etc. that

Can anyone give any advice regarding these parts or other suggestions?
 
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Old 11-15-2011, 03:02 PM
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OE dual mass flywheel gives least chatter, but heavy (>28 lbs) and expensive.

From what I read Exedy is an OEM for Nissan, and Exedy NF04 weighs about the same as Nismo (~20 lbs). Another one from Southbend weighs between OE and Nismo, and claims gives minimum chatter, but I haven't read many people commenting on it. If you want to maintain OE driving characteristics then stay with flywheels close to OE weight.

Go to Tech section here and My350Z.com, do a search on flywheel and read up. I did and I still do that.
 
  #19  
Old 11-15-2011, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tstrayer
I too need to replace my clutch ASAP (also flywheel I'm assuming). I am pretty set on the OE Exedy clutch given the price (~$230 on eBay), but I'm not sure which flywheel is cheapest/gives least chatter?

The Nismo seems appealing given the low noise, but I've heard that the Exedy NF04 is the exact same part? Is there any other flywheels, ACT or Exedy etc. that

Can anyone give any advice regarding these parts or other suggestions?
you can get ur flywheel resurfaced, very cheep too!

here's a hint: dont go thru the front door of the shop, rather go thur the garage door, find a worker (not the manager), offer him $20 under-the-table most likely he'll do it, after all a machine does the entire job

just my $0.02

edit: heres a youtube clip on how its done and looks like



eh, here's a slight better one that maybe answers a few questions (minus the horrid music and talking)

 

Last edited by 6spSEDANFTW!; 11-15-2011 at 04:11 PM.
  #20  
Old 11-15-2011, 05:04 PM
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^ have you done this to your own dual-mass OEM flywheel? How long does it last after the resurfacing?
 
  #21  
Old 11-15-2011, 05:10 PM
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Wow so many choices. I was planning on the jwt and southbend combo . But now that there are others commenting on the exedy clutches and how it's close to $300, sounds even more tempting.

What about clutch and tranny fluid? Any recommendation for those? I read that ppl use Redline transmission fluid and call it a day. Not sure about the clutch fluid tho . I want something that Is better than oem. During traffic or hot days, my clutch fluids will boil over and the pedal would get stuck to the floor. I'd rather upgrade everything while its all off.
 
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Old 11-15-2011, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ray1370
^ have you done this to your own dual-mass OEM flywheel? How long does it last after the resurfacing?
Im still on my first original oem clutch, but im not new to clutch replacement. On a few of my past cars I've changed clutches with always resurfacing the flywheel. I know a few people that had their 350z flywheels as well as many other different cars and trucks resurfaced and not a single problem and there will never be, it will last the entire new clutch life. every time a clutch is replaced the flywheel needs resurfacing (its like when you change your oil, the oil filter needs to be changed as well). Over time, especially when the clutch is slipping the flywheel gets "glazed" which is unacceptable for the new clutch to grip on.

heres a little 101 on flywheels

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf100372.htm
 

Last edited by 6spSEDANFTW!; 11-15-2011 at 06:06 PM.
  #23  
Old 11-15-2011, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 6spSEDANFTW!
(its like when you change your oil, the oil filter needs to be changed as well)
I think a better comparison would be machining the rotor when replacing brake pads.

I understand mechanically it can be done, given the flywheel has enough thickness. But I'd feel a lot more confident if the dampening parts on it can be replaced at the same time. The gripping surface on a dual-mass flywheel is not the only part that gets worn. I'd hate to open the tranny up for failed dampening component after perfect resurfacing job, after all it's not as easy as warped rotor which can be easily replaced. Just my .02.
 
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Old 11-15-2011, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kenasaki
Wow so many choices. I was planning on the jwt and southbend combo . But now that there are others commenting on the exedy clutches and how it's close to $300, sounds even more tempting.

What about clutch and tranny fluid? Any recommendation for those? I read that ppl use Redline transmission fluid and call it a day. Not sure about the clutch fluid tho . I want something that Is better than oem. During traffic or hot days, my clutch fluids will boil over and the pedal would get stuck to the floor. I'd rather upgrade everything while its all off.
You mean Southbend chromoly flywheel? It should feel close to OEM since it weighs almost the same.

Tranny fluid: I have Redline MT-85 in my tranny for about 6k miles now, and before it had factory Nissan fluid for about 30k miles. They're both good for my normal driving.

Clutch fluid: you can upgrade to DOT 4 fluid, which has higher boiling temp. Some said our clutch line is too close to the cats which gets clutch fluid boiled up, you might want to do some isolation while you're at it. Another reason for the clutch pedal getting stuck to the floor is failed slave cylinder, replacing it should be able to fix it.
 
  #25  
Old 11-15-2011, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ray1370
I think a better comparison would be machining the rotor when replacing brake pads.

I understand mechanically it can be done, given the flywheel has enough thickness. But I'd feel a lot more confident if the dampening parts on it can be replaced at the same time. The gripping surface on a dual-mass flywheel is not the only part that gets worn. I'd hate to open the tranny up for failed dampening component after perfect resurfacing job, after all it's not as easy as warped rotor which can be easily replaced. Just my .02.
hey, to each his own, you know what they say: your car, your money.....i was just responding to the guys post about different options. If the car just a daily driver no point in upgrading the flywheel when the potential of it will never be used and save quiet a good amount of cash in the process...but if a peace of mind is whats the goal is, by all means...
 
  #26  
Old 11-21-2011, 01:00 AM
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Update:

So, I went with the JWT Clutch kit with the Southbend flywheel. I was also thinking of saving some money by having it resurfaced but then thought....Hey, why not try something different. Even though its only 8lbs lighter, its still lighter.

Big props to Mike @ CZP for getting it to me in 2 DAYS! Thats fast for somthing coming from Arizona. Now, I will be getting the DOT4 clutch fluid just to be safe. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the clutch fluid is basically the Brake fluid, right?


I am really really excited to get this thing in! It just looks to be like a solid clutch! The fly is made in america (dont know if that makes any difference) but by the looks of it, I feel very confident on its reliability. And Mike assured me that they are a solid top-notch company.

I called R&D for a quote. I'm looking for another closer to home.
 

Last edited by kenasaki; 11-21-2011 at 10:25 PM.
  #27  
Old 11-27-2011, 08:18 PM
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Update

well, my jwt clutch and southbend flywheel is finally in. The southbend flywheel seems about the same weight as the stock flywheel when I pick it up with two hands. Given thats not very accurate but eh, it is what it is. There seems to be little to no chatter at all. Because of its weight, it sounds very close to stock. The engagement point is alot lower and engages much faster! Its gonna take some getting use to. It seems that this new setup "wants" you to release the clutch faster after shifting as opposed to the stock setup.

I'm getting alot of smoke from the bottom portion of the engine. I'm thinking its normal for all the grease to burn off, right? My mechanic also installed the ss clutch line, but he didn't save the original "heat shield" that wraps around the stock clutch line. Is this going to be a problem?
 
  #28  
Old 11-27-2011, 09:01 PM
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The smoke is probably some penetration fluid...I remember soaking some exhaust bolts on my Maxima and the next morning on my way to school I was freaking out because my engine was SMOKINGGGG
 
  #29  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:41 PM
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yeah, thats what I'm thinking too. So I'll just drive it for a while til it burns off. I do love the the clutch though, Even if I cant really push it to the maximum yet, I feel the difference. (maybe its because I've been driving on a slipping clutch for so long. haha)
 
  #30  
Old 11-29-2011, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by kenasaki
well, my jwt clutch and southbend flywheel is finally in. The southbend flywheel seems about the same weight as the stock flywheel when I pick it up with two hands. Given thats not very accurate but eh, it is what it is. There seems to be little to no chatter at all. Because of its weight, it sounds very close to stock. The engagement point is alot lower and engages much faster! Its gonna take some getting use to. It seems that this new setup "wants" you to release the clutch faster after shifting as opposed to the stock setup.

I'm getting alot of smoke from the bottom portion of the engine. I'm thinking its normal for all the grease to burn off, right? My mechanic also installed the ss clutch line, but he didn't save the original "heat shield" that wraps around the stock clutch line. Is this going to be a problem?
Just curious, and if u dont mind telling, how much was ur total cost in the end?
 


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