How much non-premium gas is bad for the engine?
#17
"Oh, wait, before this thread dies off, can't forget, enter the guys who will comment "I have run the cheapest crap for xxxxxx miles and everything is perfect, so don't listen to Nissan or their recommendations or antyhing, I regularly race Coupes and 350z's and beat them on cheap gas no proble,".
"I love evidence packed statements like this"
If 160,000 miles on cheap gas isn't evidence enough for you, I don't know is. What kind of evidence would you like? The engine still runs like it was new, I drive the car very hard every day. I have had no issues with the engine at all. As a matter of fact, I I have had almost NO problems with anything on the car until lately. My ABS system is acting up right now, but it isn't from cheap gas now is it?
"I love evidence packed statements like this"
If 160,000 miles on cheap gas isn't evidence enough for you, I don't know is. What kind of evidence would you like? The engine still runs like it was new, I drive the car very hard every day. I have had no issues with the engine at all. As a matter of fact, I I have had almost NO problems with anything on the car until lately. My ABS system is acting up right now, but it isn't from cheap gas now is it?
#18
Here who talked about going to the DYNO with 87 octane....well here is my stock REV-Up dyno with Z-tube, K&N filter and coupe mid pipe. Please show me other stock rev-up dyno with premium fuel and how much difference it makes.
Stock 298hp/258 tq....DYNO 240hp/209tq.... 19% drive train loss for manual (87 octane from QT at $3.69 per gallon)
Stock 298hp/258 tq....DYNO 240hp/209tq.... 19% drive train loss for manual (87 octane from QT at $3.69 per gallon)
#19
I have the autoenginuity scan tool with ext. Nissan codes and I frequently connect it to the car and check for any issues, or engine problems. None so far......
You may not get all of the horsepower with lower grade gas, but it will not hurt you engine, unless you get BAD gas.
BTW, I have also been tracking my MPG since day one, and it is still the same and I am burning no oil between my oil changes every 7,500 miles. Evidence what evidence?
You may not get all of the horsepower with lower grade gas, but it will not hurt you engine, unless you get BAD gas.
BTW, I have also been tracking my MPG since day one, and it is still the same and I am burning no oil between my oil changes every 7,500 miles. Evidence what evidence?
#20
"Oh, wait, before this thread dies off, can't forget, enter the guys who will comment "I have run the cheapest crap for xxxxxx miles and everything is perfect, so don't listen to Nissan or their recommendations or antyhing, I regularly race Coupes and 350z's and beat them on cheap gas no proble,".
"I love evidence packed statements like this"
If 160,000 miles on cheap gas isn't evidence enough for you, I don't know is. What kind of evidence would you like? The engine still runs like it was new, I drive the car very hard every day. I have had no issues with the engine at all. As a matter of fact, I I have had almost NO problems with anything on the car until lately. My ABS system is acting up right now, but it isn't from cheap gas now is it?
"I love evidence packed statements like this"
If 160,000 miles on cheap gas isn't evidence enough for you, I don't know is. What kind of evidence would you like? The engine still runs like it was new, I drive the car very hard every day. I have had no issues with the engine at all. As a matter of fact, I I have had almost NO problems with anything on the car until lately. My ABS system is acting up right now, but it isn't from cheap gas now is it?
Is 'how something feels' evidence? No, sorry to say, it is not.
Guaranteed an engine spec'd for 91, that's run 87 it's whole life will have more wear, more deposits, etc, etc. No different than the engine running Dino Oil vs. Synthetic.
Will you 'FEEL' these differences? maybe not. that doesn't mean they're not there.
Here who talked about going to the DYNO with 87 octane....well here is my stock REV-Up dyno with Z-tube, K&N filter and coupe mid pipe. Please show me other stock rev-up dyno with premium fuel and how much difference it makes.
Stock 298hp/258 tq....DYNO 240hp/209tq.... 19% drive train loss for manual (87 octane from QT at $3.69 per gallon)
Stock 298hp/258 tq....DYNO 240hp/209tq.... 19% drive train loss for manual (87 octane from QT at $3.69 per gallon)
So if I'm reading your post right, you want someone to post a dyno from a completely different car, with different modifications than you in order to compare the difference between 87 and 91?
No,..... if you wanted to compare them, you'd run 2 tanks of 91 though your engine and re-dyno, then post the results, that'd be as close a comparison as possible without getting silly.
And, now that you guys have entered the precise short-sighted posts I expected, this thread can die.
The following users liked this post:
Atlche (04-20-2012)
#21
So if I'm reading your post right, you want someone to post a dyno from a completely different car, with different modifications than you in order to compare the difference between 87 and 91?
No,..... if you wanted to compare them, you'd run 2 tanks of 91 though your engine and re-dyno, then post the results, that'd be as close a comparison as possible without getting silly.
And, now that you guys have entered the precise short-sighted posts I expected, this thread can die.
Do you really think the mods like K&n filter, Z-Tube and a Mid pipe really boost the stock dyno #. I am not running 2 tanks of 91 and then pay to redyno just to satisfy internet folks. I am planning on going back in like 6 months with Mrev Plenum, spacer, and test pipes to re dyno but that will do no good for comparison. This is the best I could come up with I am sure you can find a stock rev-up dyno and compare. Keep in mind the variances you spoke about like different dynos, different days, and temps but again this is to get a rough idea. I personally do not think 87 octane is going to make a huge performance difference on a stock motor. Once you get into FI and NA beasts that are tuned for higher octane and have tighter tolerances for timing require 91 due to tuning. Stock tuning can adjust for lower or higher octane without a HUGE and noticeable drop in daily driving.
Edit: As far as lower octane crapping out your engine with build up and deposits. There is no hard core proof about that and if you use a TOP TIER gas than it has all the detergents you would need. Also I am pretty OCD about changing out my oil at 2000-2500 miles since it only cost me like $15 to do it with conventional oil before the oil even gets a chance to break down and consume due to rev-up design. I think fresh oil, along with top tier gas and seafoam treatments and ensure that you have correct AFR, clean air filter and MAF will go a long ways compared to just pumping 91 octane and expect it to maintain an engine on its own.
http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html
Last edited by faiz23; 03-13-2012 at 12:33 PM.
#23
Do you really think the mods like K&n filter, Z-Tube and a Mid pipe really boost the stock dyno #. I am not running 2 tanks of 91 and then pay to redyno just to satisfy internet folks. I am planning on going back in like 6 months with Mrev Plenum, spacer, and test pipes to re dyno but that will do no good for comparison. This is the best I could come up with I am sure you can find a stock rev-up dyno and compare. Keep in mind the variances you spoke about like different dynos, different days, and temps but again this is to get a rough idea. I personally do not think 87 octane is going to make a huge performance difference on a stock motor. Once you get into FI and NA beasts that are tuned for higher octane and have tighter tolerances for timing require 91 due to tuning. Stock tuning can adjust for lower or higher octane without a HUGE and noticeable drop in daily driving.
Edit: As far as lower octane crapping out your engine with build up and deposits. There is no hard core proof about that and if you use a TOP TIER gas than it has all the detergents you would need. Also I am pretty OCD about changing out my oil at 2000-2500 miles since it only cost me like $15 to do it with conventional oil before the oil even gets a chance to break down and consume due to rev-up design. I think fresh oil, along with top tier gas and seafoam treatments and ensure that you have correct AFR, clean air filter and MAF will go a long ways compared to just pumping 91 octane and expect it to maintain an engine on its own.
http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html
Edit: As far as lower octane crapping out your engine with build up and deposits. There is no hard core proof about that and if you use a TOP TIER gas than it has all the detergents you would need. Also I am pretty OCD about changing out my oil at 2000-2500 miles since it only cost me like $15 to do it with conventional oil before the oil even gets a chance to break down and consume due to rev-up design. I think fresh oil, along with top tier gas and seafoam treatments and ensure that you have correct AFR, clean air filter and MAF will go a long ways compared to just pumping 91 octane and expect it to maintain an engine on its own.
http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html
In either case, it's really whatever you guys want to do, personally, Ima run what's recommended for the most part, and for my 03 6MT, that's 87. I will be running ethanol free as much as possible. I'll also be making comparisons on fuel consumption vs. cost with 91 on my specific engine.
OAN, si_driver, I just realized you posted your car is a 2003 sedan, so if you noted, 87 is just fine for that engine. you have no need to run 91 except for performance increase, for what it's worth.
#25
^^^^lolz....so not true....then all the other billion of cars that use crappy gas are doomed and will explode. Lolz really catalytic converters...might as well swap them out and get test pipes. What fails first berk/kinetix hfc rattling within 2 years or 87 octane ruining a convertor...lolz man
#27
Yes I understand the rate at which the cats will wear out will be faster but how often to cats fail due to gas octane versus running rich or lean due to a vacuum leak, o2 sensors or fouled plugs. The cat convertor should last the lifetime of the vehicle or atleast 100,000 miles. With the group of folks on G35 driver running sawed off exhaust, straigh exhaust with test pipes and Forced induction...i think emmisions is the least of our worries. If you truly care about the environment go look at your local business and how the treat the environment versus your puny v6 and a cat convertor that might wear a little faster than normal. Honestly worrying about a cat convertor is hilarious on a enthusiast forum. Cats have been in place since 1970 and had a major push towards unleaded fuel. They have been fine in 70's and 80s and 90's but now due to using 87 octane in a infiniti g35 they will crap out versus the maxima, sentra, murano, and other G35's that use the same engine and same cats.
#28
NO, using the wrong octane will cause increased emmisions, which wears the cats out faster.....that's what I said, anyways.
Obviously it's not goign to cause them to explode, and all the other stuff you metnioned will cause them to wear faster, and will also have a larger impact than running lower octane than recommended.
As far as emmisions go, some of us (most of us) DD these cars, and again, most need to pass emissions tests on a regulated basis. If they fail because of bad cats, they need to be replaced, which is super costly. Keeping the cats in good order also increases performance and efficancy.
Overlooking the cats on a DD that has emmissions regulations is silly.....
It's not a race car.
But I agree that it's not a huge concern when directly related to using lower octane. Also, I'm not arguing with you, if you got that impression. I was just saying his statement does hold some measure of truth.
Obviously it's not goign to cause them to explode, and all the other stuff you metnioned will cause them to wear faster, and will also have a larger impact than running lower octane than recommended.
As far as emmisions go, some of us (most of us) DD these cars, and again, most need to pass emissions tests on a regulated basis. If they fail because of bad cats, they need to be replaced, which is super costly. Keeping the cats in good order also increases performance and efficancy.
Overlooking the cats on a DD that has emmissions regulations is silly.....
It's not a race car.
But I agree that it's not a huge concern when directly related to using lower octane. Also, I'm not arguing with you, if you got that impression. I was just saying his statement does hold some measure of truth.
The following users liked this post:
faiz23 (03-13-2012)
#29
I don't know if anyone on this thread realizesit or not but the major difference between the AT engine and the couple/MT engine are the cams are different. The different cam timing produces different peak cylinder pressures. It's not just ignition timing that cause a need for more octane.
#30
I have an 03 coupe 5AT and I always run premium. Last year I drove from Mnpls to Eau Claire Wisconsin and half way through the trip the car started to drive like crap and then the check engine light came on. I was doing my buddy a favor and taking him home. He put gas in my car when I was in the store. I told him to put in premium. I called him on my way home and asked him what he put in and he said regular. Needless to say I was heated.
Trip to the dealer and 80 bucks later car was running great again. The gas does make a difference.
Trip to the dealer and 80 bucks later car was running great again. The gas does make a difference.