Update On My Oil Consuming Road Whore
#17
03-16-2012, 10:47 PM
I cant believe how many misconceptions there are about oil. Let me help clear something up before this thread turns into a synthetic vs conventional argument.
First off, oil weight and viscocity are what they are regardless of whether you run synthetic or conventional.
Many people will advise against running synthetic oil if conventional oil has been used for a long time because of the detergents in synthetic oil. These detergents cleanse the engine of gunk and deposits which COULD cause the engine to leak or burn oil. I had a 1992 Taurus SHO that up until the first 100k miles had conventional oil. I switched to synthetic oil and when I sold the car at 190k the engine was clean and did not burn or leak a drop of oil.
The VQ engine is NOT designed to burn oil. Whoever told you that is seriously mentally challenged. No auto maker would ever intentionally design a motor that consumes or burns oil. Please get your facts straight and do some research before filling my thread with stuff there is no proof of. I am trying to help people by posting my experience, not confusing them with noob comments.
First off, oil weight and viscocity are what they are regardless of whether you run synthetic or conventional.
Many people will advise against running synthetic oil if conventional oil has been used for a long time because of the detergents in synthetic oil. These detergents cleanse the engine of gunk and deposits which COULD cause the engine to leak or burn oil. I had a 1992 Taurus SHO that up until the first 100k miles had conventional oil. I switched to synthetic oil and when I sold the car at 190k the engine was clean and did not burn or leak a drop of oil.
The VQ engine is NOT designed to burn oil. Whoever told you that is seriously mentally challenged. No auto maker would ever intentionally design a motor that consumes or burns oil. Please get your facts straight and do some research before filling my thread with stuff there is no proof of. I am trying to help people by posting my experience, not confusing them with noob comments.
I did make a mistake when I said the VQ was designed to burn dino oil. What I men't was the VQ's recommended oil from the factory is a mineral based oil.
Bad slang, I say what oil are you burning, instead of what oil are you using.
#22
03-17-2012, 09:23 AM
LOL. As far as I know the only difference between the 04 and 04.5 models are the dates they were built. Im not sure why Infiniti ran half years models in 04. I know they did it on 03 with the 03.5's to update the ECU.
According to page GI-48 (General Information) of the 2004.5 Service Manual, you have a 2004.5 if your VIN is on or after JNKCV51E*4M600001 or JNKCV51F*4FM700001.
According to page GI-48 (General Information) of the 2004.5 Service Manual, you have a 2004.5 if your VIN is on or after JNKCV51E*4M600001 or JNKCV51F*4FM700001.
#23
03-17-2012, 12:54 PM
I cant believe how many misconceptions there are about oil. Let me help clear something up before this thread turns into a synthetic vs conventional argument.
First off, oil weight and viscocity are what they are regardless of whether you run synthetic or conventional.
Many people will advise against running synthetic oil if conventional oil has been used for a long time because of the detergents in synthetic oil. These detergents cleanse the engine of gunk and deposits which COULD cause the engine to leak or burn oil. I had a 1992 Taurus SHO that up until the first 100k miles had conventional oil. I switched to synthetic oil and when I sold the car at 190k the engine was clean and did not burn or leak a drop of oil.
The VQ engine is NOT designed to burn oil. Whoever told you that is seriously mentally challenged. No auto maker would ever intentionally design a motor that consumes or burns oil. Please get your facts straight and do some research before filling my thread with stuff there is no proof of. I am trying to help people by posting my experience, not confusing them with noob comments.
First off, oil weight and viscocity are what they are regardless of whether you run synthetic or conventional.
Many people will advise against running synthetic oil if conventional oil has been used for a long time because of the detergents in synthetic oil. These detergents cleanse the engine of gunk and deposits which COULD cause the engine to leak or burn oil. I had a 1992 Taurus SHO that up until the first 100k miles had conventional oil. I switched to synthetic oil and when I sold the car at 190k the engine was clean and did not burn or leak a drop of oil.
The VQ engine is NOT designed to burn oil. Whoever told you that is seriously mentally challenged. No auto maker would ever intentionally design a motor that consumes or burns oil. Please get your facts straight and do some research before filling my thread with stuff there is no proof of. I am trying to help people by posting my experience, not confusing them with noob comments.
#24
03-17-2012, 02:28 PM
Correction, only Mazda Wankel Rotaries are designed to burn small amounts of oil, but nothimg on the scale of what we see in VQ oil consumption. The only reason it is designed to do so is to prevent the apex seals from going bad, otherwise the motor would need an overhaul. **** poor way to correct a problem IMHO and why I believe all Mazda Wankel Rotary engines are junk ESPECIALLY the one found in the RX-8.
I knew someone would bring that up.
I knew someone would bring that up.
#25
03-19-2012, 10:11 PM
I think I'm getting to the bottom of this...
I sent my oil in to Blackstone Labs for analysis and everything was great, except for chromium being high. They mentioned that likely means the oil control rings.
I did a little searching around and the symptoms of oil control rings and this is what I found on nicoclub:
Furthermore, there's a thread on 6mt.net explaining the effect of adding HFC's:
This pretty much goes in line with the last few people reporting oil consumption after adding ART pipes (not that ART pipes are the culprit, but I think it's just anything other than the stock cats). I also have ART pipes, and have had them for approx 15-20k miles.
So basically it looks like a problem with the design of the oil control rings, which is made worse by removing the stock cats.
I sent my oil in to Blackstone Labs for analysis and everything was great, except for chromium being high. They mentioned that likely means the oil control rings.
I did a little searching around and the symptoms of oil control rings and this is what I found on nicoclub:
If your VQ is losing/burning oil, it is NOT because of the viscosity. The problem lies in the taper of the cylander bore. All VQ engines have a tappered bore, and on some, it is excessive, to the point where the secondary rings and oil control rings are not making full contact with the cylander walls. Durring heavy deceleration, or high rpm deceleration, the vaccum in the cylander draws oil past these rings. In a situation where you are losing 1qt every 1000 miles, you can be sure to find secondary rings that show minimal signs of wear. (since they are not in contact with the walls, why would they wear?)
I could see that. by installing HFC's you have altered the pressure inside the cylinder during the exhaust stroke. that pressure in the cylinder is what causes the oil control rings to seal. with less pressure in the cylinder during the exhaust stroke the oil more easily gets past the oil control rings on the piston. that oil then gets burnt on the next compression stroke. but since you have new spark plugs and coils it is a complete combustion and you are not getting the typical blue smoke.t
So basically it looks like a problem with the design of the oil control rings, which is made worse by removing the stock cats.
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ray1370 (03-20-2012)
#26
03-20-2012, 02:07 AM
I think I'm getting to the bottom of this...
I sent my oil in to Blackstone Labs for analysis and everything was great, except for chromium being high. They mentioned that likely means the oil control rings.
I did a little searching around and the symptoms of oil control rings and this is what I found on nicoclub:
I sent my oil in to Blackstone Labs for analysis and everything was great, except for chromium being high. They mentioned that likely means the oil control rings.
I did a little searching around and the symptoms of oil control rings and this is what I found on nicoclub:
#29
03-20-2012, 10:21 AM
WHY do so many owners use 0-W-30, or 0W40 ???? the mfg reccommends 5W30 10W30....
a little history, some years ago many mfg were faced with upcharges by CAFE because their cars would not meet stds. IE if their new car could not pass and got less than 34mpg it got an up charge on the car sticker or some say today it is buryied into base price not to scare customer away...
many here should go to www.bobistheoilguy.com
OIL marked 0W30 is BASE STOCK grade ZERO with improvers so that it has pour qualities of 30wt when hot...problem is after only a few thousand miles the improvers burn off and you are runninbg 0W0......think about it....
as an engine builder and a reader of tests of race motors and the qualities needed for high revving motors in regards to FILM STRENGTH and FILM THICKNESS..I have read the the rev up cars are using very little spring tension behind oil ring.
I use 10W30 DINO OIL and change oil at 3500 miles it is usually down one qt...my engine is TIGHT....the mfg in attempts sometimes to get to the required 34mpg have resorted to light spring tension on OIL control ring which will allow some oil to pass on high RPM...many here over the years have not checked their oil and have run virtually dry causing seizure or broken rings which are cast iron and easily broken...if this is the case nothing you can do but to rebuild...I would bet in most cases of heavy oil burning many here could benefit from changing to 15W40 Shell dino...(which is 15W base weight with improvers.) here is graph showing oil thin out from heat. : http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/puttin...nto-viscosity/
a little history, some years ago many mfg were faced with upcharges by CAFE because their cars would not meet stds. IE if their new car could not pass and got less than 34mpg it got an up charge on the car sticker or some say today it is buryied into base price not to scare customer away...
many here should go to www.bobistheoilguy.com
OIL marked 0W30 is BASE STOCK grade ZERO with improvers so that it has pour qualities of 30wt when hot...problem is after only a few thousand miles the improvers burn off and you are runninbg 0W0......think about it....
as an engine builder and a reader of tests of race motors and the qualities needed for high revving motors in regards to FILM STRENGTH and FILM THICKNESS..I have read the the rev up cars are using very little spring tension behind oil ring.
I use 10W30 DINO OIL and change oil at 3500 miles it is usually down one qt...my engine is TIGHT....the mfg in attempts sometimes to get to the required 34mpg have resorted to light spring tension on OIL control ring which will allow some oil to pass on high RPM...many here over the years have not checked their oil and have run virtually dry causing seizure or broken rings which are cast iron and easily broken...if this is the case nothing you can do but to rebuild...I would bet in most cases of heavy oil burning many here could benefit from changing to 15W40 Shell dino...(which is 15W base weight with improvers.) here is graph showing oil thin out from heat. : http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/puttin...nto-viscosity/
Last edited by slim17265; 03-20-2012 at 04:19 PM. Reason: addition
#30
03-20-2012, 11:20 AM
Anyways, here are the 2 threads I mentioned:
http://www.6mt.net/forum/g35-coupe/3...g35driver.html
http://forums.nicoclub.com/answers-o...c-t323273.html