Update On My Oil Consuming Road Whore
#31
WHY do so many owners use 0-W-30, or 0W40 ???? the mfg reccommends 10W30....
a little history, some years ago many mfg were faced with upcharges by CAFE because their cars would not meet stds. IE if their new car could not pass and got less than 34mpg it got an up charge on the car sticker or some say today it is buryied into base price not to scare customer away...
many here should go to www.bobistheoilguy.com
OIL marked 0W30 is BASE STOCK grade ZERO with improvers so that it has pour qualities of 30wt when hot...problem is after only a few thousand miles the improvers burn off and you are runninbg 0W0......think about it....
as an engine builder and a reader of tests of race motors and the qualities needed for high revving motors in regards to FILM STRENGTH and FILM THICKNESS..
I use 10W30 DINO OIL and change oil at 3500 miles it is usually down one qt...my engine is TIGHT....the mfg in attempts sometimes to get to the required 34mpg have resorted to light spring tension on OIL control ring which will allow some oil to pass on high RPM...many here over the years have not checked their oil and have run virtually dry causing seizure or broken rings which are cast iron and easily broken...if this is the case nothing you can do but to rebuild...I would bet in most cases of heavy oil burning many here could benefit from changing to 15W40 Shell dino...(which is 15W base weight with improvers.)
a little history, some years ago many mfg were faced with upcharges by CAFE because their cars would not meet stds. IE if their new car could not pass and got less than 34mpg it got an up charge on the car sticker or some say today it is buryied into base price not to scare customer away...
many here should go to www.bobistheoilguy.com
OIL marked 0W30 is BASE STOCK grade ZERO with improvers so that it has pour qualities of 30wt when hot...problem is after only a few thousand miles the improvers burn off and you are runninbg 0W0......think about it....
as an engine builder and a reader of tests of race motors and the qualities needed for high revving motors in regards to FILM STRENGTH and FILM THICKNESS..
I use 10W30 DINO OIL and change oil at 3500 miles it is usually down one qt...my engine is TIGHT....the mfg in attempts sometimes to get to the required 34mpg have resorted to light spring tension on OIL control ring which will allow some oil to pass on high RPM...many here over the years have not checked their oil and have run virtually dry causing seizure or broken rings which are cast iron and easily broken...if this is the case nothing you can do but to rebuild...I would bet in most cases of heavy oil burning many here could benefit from changing to 15W40 Shell dino...(which is 15W base weight with improvers.)
The Infiniti "recommended" oil is 5w30, not 10w30. But I don't see how 10w30 would do anything in my case other than cause more harm when the engine is cold. People like 0 weight oils because they offer better protection on startup, when most engine damage occurs.
#32
I Also have a 04 6mt oil guzzler and i was burning 1quart of M1 5w30 every 1k miles.i hear people saying switching to a different velocity won't make a difference but I swear once I started mixing my oil(4 quarts 5w30 and 1 quart 10w40)my oil consumption has been cut in half.ive been doing this for my last 4oil changes and it works for me.
#33
So I changed the oil yesterday and I put in conventional Castrol GTX 5w-30. It was on sale on AutoZone with a great deal. They give you the pan to collect the oil, cleaning paper, oil filter, hand cleaner and a funnel.
Let's see how much my car burns. I'm planning to swap the motor out with another used motor this summer due to a ticking noise. So I was wondering if I should get motor from 05/06 Auto car? Would that decrease the chance of getting another car that burns oil heavily?
Let's see how much my car burns. I'm planning to swap the motor out with another used motor this summer due to a ticking noise. So I was wondering if I should get motor from 05/06 Auto car? Would that decrease the chance of getting another car that burns oil heavily?
#34
So I changed the oil yesterday and I put in conventional Castrol GTX 5w-30. It was on sale on AutoZone with a great deal. They give you the pan to collect the oil, cleaning paper, oil filter, hand cleaner and a funnel.
Let's see how much my car burns. I'm planning to swap the motor out with another used motor this summer due to a ticking noise. So I was wondering if I should get motor from 05/06 Auto car? Would that decrease the chance of getting another car that burns oil heavily?
Let's see how much my car burns. I'm planning to swap the motor out with another used motor this summer due to a ticking noise. So I was wondering if I should get motor from 05/06 Auto car? Would that decrease the chance of getting another car that burns oil heavily?
2003-2007 AUTOMATIC G35 coupe
2003-2006 Automatic G35 Sedan
2003-2004 Manual G35 coupe or sedan
I would buy a 2007 automatic coupe motor, or 2006 automatic sedan motor with low miles and some sort of warranty.
The following users liked this post:
dineth00i30 (03-20-2012)
The following users liked this post:
dineth00i30 (03-20-2012)
#36
FYI - my results were not evident after my first oil change with conventional. It took a couple oil changes to see a difference. Just stick with it, hopefully you will notice similar results.
Your best bet for a replacement motor is get one with low mileage and pray for the best.
Your best bet for a replacement motor is get one with low mileage and pray for the best.
#37
I'm not sure what 0w oils you are referring to, but that definitely doesn't apply to Castol 0w30 and Mobil 1 0w40 from all the UOA's I've seen. I just had 3300 miles on my Castrol 0w30 and the cSt Viscosity at 100 C was 12.58, which puts it on the high end of a 0w30 oil, almost a 0w40. It didn't lose any thickness at all. I did add some oil in between the interval, but still, it's been shown from many people to hold it's properties.
The Infiniti "recommended" oil is 5w30, not 10w30. But I don't see how 10w30 would do anything in my case other than cause more harm when the engine is cold. People like 0 weight oils because they offer better protection on startup, when most engine damage occurs.
The Infiniti "recommended" oil is 5w30, not 10w30. But I don't see how 10w30 would do anything in my case other than cause more harm when the engine is cold. People like 0 weight oils because they offer better protection on startup, when most engine damage occurs.
#38
It probably doesn't say to use 0w30 because Nissan recommends dino oil, and there's not any dino oil that's 0w30 that I'm aware of.
Yes, oil breaks down over time, aka shearing. But what I'm saying is a 0w30 oil is not going to break down to a 0w0 without a lot of contamination. Mobil 1 0w40 will shear down to 0w30, but that's still right in spec. It's been proven many, many times with used oil analysis. My oil was just analyzed as the same thickness as your 5w30 oil when hot, and that's after 3300 miles. So the only difference is mine is thinner when cold. But I don't have any oil burning at all when cold, so I don't see how there's any disadvantage to using it.
Saying a 0w30 oil has no film thickness is completely wrong. The 0 is simply a rating when the oil is cold, not a scientific measurement. Here are some ratings of Mobil 1 0w40 directly from their website (http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...l_1_0W-40.aspx:
@ 40º C 75
@ 100º C 13.5
So this means this 0w40 oil is a little over 5 times thicker at 40C than when at 100C.
Yes, oil breaks down over time, aka shearing. But what I'm saying is a 0w30 oil is not going to break down to a 0w0 without a lot of contamination. Mobil 1 0w40 will shear down to 0w30, but that's still right in spec. It's been proven many, many times with used oil analysis. My oil was just analyzed as the same thickness as your 5w30 oil when hot, and that's after 3300 miles. So the only difference is mine is thinner when cold. But I don't have any oil burning at all when cold, so I don't see how there's any disadvantage to using it.
Saying a 0w30 oil has no film thickness is completely wrong. The 0 is simply a rating when the oil is cold, not a scientific measurement. Here are some ratings of Mobil 1 0w40 directly from their website (http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...l_1_0W-40.aspx:
@ 40º C 75
@ 100º C 13.5
So this means this 0w40 oil is a little over 5 times thicker at 40C than when at 100C.
#41
I think I'm getting to the bottom of this...
I sent my oil in to Blackstone Labs for analysis and everything was great, except for chromium being high. They mentioned that likely means the oil control rings.
I did a little searching around and the symptoms of oil control rings and this is what I found on nicoclub:
Furthermore, there's a thread on 6mt.net explaining the effect of adding HFC's:
This pretty much goes in line with the last few people reporting oil consumption after adding ART pipes (not that ART pipes are the culprit, but I think it's just anything other than the stock cats). I also have ART pipes, and have had them for approx 15-20k miles.
So basically it looks like a problem with the design of the oil control rings, which is made worse by removing the stock cats.
I sent my oil in to Blackstone Labs for analysis and everything was great, except for chromium being high. They mentioned that likely means the oil control rings.
I did a little searching around and the symptoms of oil control rings and this is what I found on nicoclub:
Furthermore, there's a thread on 6mt.net explaining the effect of adding HFC's:
This pretty much goes in line with the last few people reporting oil consumption after adding ART pipes (not that ART pipes are the culprit, but I think it's just anything other than the stock cats). I also have ART pipes, and have had them for approx 15-20k miles.
So basically it looks like a problem with the design of the oil control rings, which is made worse by removing the stock cats.
I had to call Blackstone to get a little further clarification about some of the other readings. Iron, copper and lead were high, they mentioned that could be due to the extremely hot summer we had just had here in Central Texas 2011, and will continue to monitor that trend on future samples. The Molybdenum, Boron, and Calcium are all oil additives/preservatives. As you can see, even with 5k miles on this particular sample, my oil viscosity was right where it should have been and there was still plenty of additives/preservatives in the oil. Check one for Amsoil.
I am curious on what your Chromium number was on your test? Mine was 1.
Btw, I think it would be a great separate thread to have for folks that spend the money on this testing to be able to compare.
Last edited by AustinG35; 03-21-2012 at 11:55 AM.
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